What I mean by High enough to use the sights when mounted is no more than a lower 2/3 co witness and it would not bother me at all if I could not see the sights at all as I prefer a more heads up position as opposed to cramming my head down on the buffer tube to use the iron sights.

Would it be worth is to get a riser that angles back toward the shooter at 45 degrees to get a slightly larger field of view or just use a standard riser ?

Also about how long will the battery last if the brightness is set on 1 ?
I used to know but forgot.

Thanks

 

If I follow what you're asking, well, bear with me.

The sub2k is a straight line recoil gun. With no drop at the heel the sight needs to be brought up to your eye since the cheek isn't going to force the buffer tube down.

I used a Midwest Ind' mount, but I'd start with a 2/3 cowitness height and see how it works for you. To get a QD mount might require a separate QD base and riser mated together. They can be bought inexpensively. just be careful of brands no one has heard of before. QD mounts require a camming surface and I bought some that had machined circles with no camming action. Completely useless. I find Leapers UTG brand to be inexpensive but high enough quality to work and hold up to many thousands of rounds. Inexpensive enough to order different heights to make sure you can fit it properly and get what you want. You may need to change your desire to be able to use the open sights if the red dot fails.

 

As opposed to the QD riser do think that something like this would be sturdy enough as long as I made sure it was snug every 25 rounds or so?
What abought height,do you think this would work with the Trs-25 to provide a Lower 1/3 co witness
UTG 1 inch Picatinny riser

 

I don't know about height, it all depends on the shape of our faces what will work and what you want for a cheek weld. But that's the height I use and I like to have my head vertical and not skoonched down so my weld is close to the jaw. UTG also makes (or made) one that was a lightweight version. It's plenty rugged for anything you'll put the sub2k through and have it survive. I use UTG lightweight slims exclusively now.

Not a suggestion to buy from this seller. It's for illustration only. It's still made.

UTG Super Slim Picatinny Riser Mount 1" High 3 Slots Aluminum Lightweight 4717385551947 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for UTG Super Slim Picatinny Riser Mount 1" High 3 Slots Aluminum Lightweight at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

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Tighten it every 20 rounds? You won't need to. But if you find it loosening (I doubt it) put some blue Loc-Tite on the threads. FWIW. I remove the sights when I clean my guns and I find that they return to the 50 yd zero. I used to check them for zero but I no longer do.

With older sights the issue you may have is with it being a battery hog. That's not a big deal, just turn it off when not in use and pick a date and change it every year. I have a buddy who I squad with when we compete and I've seen his sight run out of juice mid stage 3x now. Clearly he waits for the battery to poop itself. If your sub2k is for serious use you don't want to do as he does. Don't be me either. I like Holosun sights due to the solar cells on some of the models. On my competition guns I just don't change the batteries 'cause we never shoot at night and during the day the solar cells power the thing. Last time at the range I was under cover and didn't have juice enough to power the sight. I stepped into the light and there was the dot. If there had been lots of people there I couldn't have done that. But I always carry spares for everything, I could have changed the battery if I needed or wanted to.

 

I am going to get the riser that you linked to, it looks very sturdy.
I appreciate all your information.

Thank you Much

 

Please let us know how you like it after you've used it for a time, even if you hate it. Your feedback can help others. You may need to adjust the height by buying different height risers, but as long as you don't use it as a hammer it should hold up. It only holds a sight weighing maybe 2 ounces(?) .

Don't be surprised if you need to change where you cheek weld. I think I mentioned that my head is held vertically and my jaw is where I cheek weld. You'll figure it out, getting accustomed to it might be another thing. It could take lots of dry fire practice but for me it was immediately comfortable since my neck has issues. I raise the gun to my cheek weld point and don't drop the head to the gun. It's sorta like a well fitted shotgun... keep the eyes on the target and put the gun between the eye and target. You shouldn't need to search for the dot, it should be right there. If it isn't play with the height of the sight.

The height of the sight could lead to some sighting errors. I simplify things. I sight in at 40-50 yards with 9mm. In competition I know that I'm going to see close targets where sighting errors can occur. For chest A zone hits I ignore hold over since the zone is so large. But for the head A zone it's small so I hold above the zone for an A zone hit every time. Out near 30ish yards just hold dead on and your shot will be good. If it's for HD, ignore hold over, or for a heart shot aim on the chest just below the neck and it'll go in the pump with that 50 yd zero. Of course the 50 yard zero is also good out to 100 yards by holding a smidge over, but bullet drop will be MUCH less than we think so not much holdover is required. It's also very difficult to justify HD at 100 yards.

 

Yes I will post how it is working for sure.
I appreciate people helping me and I like to help others as well.

Hope the 1 inch riser will give me the height I and my wife to at least get close to the height needed to get the kind of fit that you describe.
If it is not high enough only option that I know of would be to buy a reflex sight that already has a riser as part of the body
as I have been unable to find a higher riser than 1 inch.
I suppose I could put another riser on top of the first one ?

For HD only what do you think about sighting in at 10 yards (the longest shot distance in our home.)?

 

Well, I Got the 1-inch high UTG riser in the mail and put it on the sub2000 and then put the old Bushnell trs-25 on it.

Seems like a pretty good fit with where I rest my jaw on the gun being approximately halfway from the end of my chin to the end of my jawbone.

I cannot see the rear sight at all in the view of the Trs-25, I can see the front sight in the red dot, and it appears to be an absolute co-witness with the red dot slightly above the tip of the front iron sight, although I have not sighted it in yet.

I have to tilt my head slightly forward, I would prefer a more Heads up position but to do so I would either pull the rifle up to the point that about 1/2 inch of the Butt is above my collar bone OR need a higher riser.

I can definitely live with it as is and did not have to search for the dot at all, the dot is a little bit higher than center before sight in.
but would like to try mounting it 1/4 to1/2 inch or so Higher.
Any suggestions?

I tried to find torque Ratings for the plastic rail as I have a wheeler torque wrench but was unable to find the answer online.
What I did was to use the allen/star wrench Provided with the riser which is about 2-1/2 inches long and put the long end into the screws and tightened it as tight as I could using the short end with my fingers, The short end being about only about an inch long.

Is this enough torque to hold the 3.7 ounce Trs-25 under recoil?
Or does anyone know how much
The torque values are for the plastic rail of the Sub2000?

 

Can't help with torque values I wish they were given on the packaging. I just tighten and make sure it's held firmly. The biggest danger IMO is being armstrong and snapping screws. If I remember correctly the screws are either long "through screws" that prevent the mount from moving out of the chosen slot position, or the riser has male parts built in to prevent movement. But either one, when tightening move the mount to the forward most position in the slot. In normal operation the mount and sight wants to move forward under recoil. So go with the flow, put it there from the start and it won't move.

To fine tune dot height they make all sorts of lesser height risers. My "stuff" boxes have a mess of these and I piggyback them to fine tune height, then buy one to get rid of the piggybacked risers. My rifles commonly have one high mount such as you bought and a lower mount piggy backed to give me what I want. I just don't want a mess of risers elevating the sight. One or 2 risers is acceptable to me. If you can't live with that you might find a riser built for the correct height but be sitting down when you see the price. What I did for $20 I found a one piece riser could be done for $100.

Amazon.com : UTG pic rail optic risers

Below is an extreme example of piggybacked risers. It's on a handgun that gets cheeked, it's also the installation that saved me $80 over a 1 piece riser. You'll recognize the riser.

 

Can't help with torque values I wish they were given on the packaging. I just tighten and make sure it's held firmly. The biggest danger IMO is being armstrong and snapping screws. If I remember correctly the screws are either long "through screws" that prevent the mount from moving out of the chosen slot position, or the riser has male parts built in to prevent movement. But either one, when tightening move the mount to the forward most position in the slot. In normal operation the mount and sight wants to move forward under recoil. So go with the flow, put it there from the start and it won't move.

To fine tune dot height they make all sorts of lesser height risers. My "stuff" boxes have a mess of these and I piggyback them to fine tune height, then buy one to get rid of the piggybacked risers. My rifles commonly have one high mount such as you bought and a lower mount piggy backed to give me what I want. I just don't want a mess of risers elevating the sight. One or 2 risers is acceptable to me. If you can't live with that you might find a riser built for the correct height but be sitting down when you see the price. What I did for $20 I found a one piece riser could be done for $100.

Amazon.com : UTG pic rail optic risers

Below is an extreme example of piggybacked risers. It's on a handgun that gets cheeked, it's also the installation that saved me $80 over a 1 piece riser. You'll recognize the riser.

Yes, the UTG has square male lugs to contact the rail which I really like over the round recoil type of contact on a rail.
UTG Super Slim Picatinny Riser Mount 1" High 3 Slots Aluminum Lightweight 4717385551947 | eBay

I did not want to use too much torque on the screws as you pointed out which is why I used the short end of the torx wrench to tighten instead of the long end which might have provided to much leverage.
I just used my thumb and 1 finger to tighten.
I figured that at age 63 and using just the short end of the wrench with just a thumb and 1 finger that I would not overtighten.

Great tip on sliding the mount forward in the slot.
I have been doing that for years with the Weaver style of rings.

I may try to just Piggy bac another as you show in your pic but may leave it as is
as it fits my wife perfectly and and fits me as well as I do not have to look for the dot at all.
Yes, I have to shoulder the rifle a little higher on my shoulder but with the low recoil of the 9mm sub2000 and the fact that neither of us will be shooting over 10-20 rounds of the 147 grain Federal FMJ Practice ammo whenever we Practice, I will be fine with that.
And then load up with Federal 147 Grain HST for home defense use.

Thanks

 

I mounted mine on directly on the picatinny rail. Works great, very solid. I don't intend to fold the gun. Want it ready to use if I need to.

 

I read some of your replies from 2021 and saw that you were using A Bushnell Trs -25 as well.
If I read right, you were using a 1-inch-high riser along with a 1/2 riser to get above the sights completely??

You are right about using the carbine for Defense in that it needs to stay unfolded for instant accessibility.

 

It works perfectly.

 

Thanks

 

Have you considered a 45° mount? The gun still folds without a cumbersom folding mount. I think I paid $12 on Amazon. I'm using the high riser on a Sig Romeo 5.

 

I don’t think that I could get used to having it on the side.
Other than the novelty of having a folding rifle it will most likely never leave the house other than taking it out in the backyard to stay proficient with it.
And it will be kept unfolded and ready for home defense in case it is needed.

I got it for my 75 year old wife because it is so lightweight and easy to handle.

I would like to know what kind of laser it is that you have on the bottom rail as I am interested in putting a laser on the bottom rail ?

Does it hold zero pretty good ?

Thanks

 

I bought one of these a few years ago cheaper. TRS 25 that came with a high riser (for AR?).

Amazon.com : Bushnell Optics TRS-25 Hirise 1x25mm Red Dot Riflescope with Riser Block, Matte Black : Rifle Scopes : Sports & Outdoors

Amazon.com : Bushnell Optics TRS-25 Hirise 1x25mm Red Dot Riflescope with Riser Block, Matte Black : Rifle Scopes : Sports & Outdoors

www.amazon.com

 

Yes that is what I put on mine.
I bought mine I know had to be 30 years ago.
All I had to buy was a utg 1-inch high riser off of eBay for about $12.50 tax and all.