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Discussion in 'P-3AT' started by rcmodel, Mar 24, 2009.
Follow this link:
Following the link given does not seem to work. Get only a "page not found" Try this direct link to Wolff Springs for the Kel Tecs instead:
The link I posted leads to the post in the Accessories forum I started.
It contains the link to Wolff's K-T page.
I put it there because it applies to other models besides just the P3AT.
I was trying to keep posts down on this one and get it all in one thread.
I know, but when I went to the accessories forum page and clicked on the link there, it would not display. The link I posted takes you to the Kel Tec page for all models.
Both links work for me. :-/ Has anyone tried any of the springs for the p3at?
Let the cheetah flips begin!!!!!!!!!!!! ;D And for the $64,000 question: what spring to choose?
This will be interesting! With limpwristing being a problem for some with this light weight pistol it would seem an extra power spring would add to the problem?? On the other hand, a little extra power might eliminate the need to change out worn factory springs??
Heaven and the saints - FINALLY! Way to go Wolff!
Now there is something to pair with the hot Buffalo Bore/CorBon/etc. Maybe I won't have such a sore hand anymore after 50 rounds at the range...
Just Ordered the calibration pack. If I'm the first, I will let everyone know how it goes.......
I just checked my owner's manuals for the P-3AT and the P-32. The recoil spring part numbers [190 and 191] are the same for each. Therefore, I assume they are interchangeable and the same poundage rating.
On checking the Wolff website I see they give the info that the P-32 factory standard recoil spring weight is 9# and the P-3AT standard is 11#.
So, does Wolff know something that Kel-Tec doesn't???????? Any thoughts?
The part numbers are the same, but the prefix (i.e. P32-191) is different because the actual parts are not the same.
The P-11 recoil springs are also 190 and 191...
Thanks. Now I are smarter and more better. Guess I better go thru my supply of extra parts and see if I can figure which is which. Darn--I thought I knew it all!!
Uh oh... ;D
Got my calibration pack today. AND we have rain for two days :-/. Maybe I'll make a run to the range on Monday.
I would like a stronger magazine spring and firing pin spring for my new P3AT but apparently Wolf doesn't offer them for sale. Or, by any chance will P-32 magazine and firing pin springs also work as P3AT springs?
Lying side by side in a LGS showcase the polymer grip frames of both guns appear to be the same size, and if they are it would seem to me that it would be good for KelTec and it's customers to use the same basic parts like magazines and firing pin springs in both models where ever possible if they are close enough in size and strength to work properly in both. I'm a newby to the world of KelTec and this forum, so please excuse my ignorance.
You don't want a stronger FP spring as it will likely result in light strikes. Also, there is just plain no reason for one. The hammer block makes the gun drop proof. I used to have a list of the common parts between the P32 and P3AT. Most of the internal parts are shared - I'm not sure about the mag spring. However, again you don't necessarily want stronger mag springs as that can throw off the timing of the action. Perhaps Wolf will make some to acompany the recoil springs. FWIW, the grips are not identical. The P32 is very slightly smaller in some dimensions.
Thanks for that information, I thought a stronger firing pin spring would give a harder strike, but after reviewing the parts diagram I see that the spring is actually a firing pin return spring and making it stronger would result in lighter strikes, which is what I'm trying to fix to begin with. My gun leaves a shallow indentation on the primer and I had two failures to ignite the Winchester primer last time I fired a few magazines of reloads in my yard. Maybe I need a stronger hammer spring? I'm guessing that would give it a heavier trigger pull which I don't want either.
As for the magazine spring, I would just like to have a spare around in case the one it came with gets weak later on. Maybe i'll just order another magazine and alternate keeping one loaded for 6 months and then the other for the next 6 months, etc, etc, etc.
If you have not:
Take the firing pin and spring out, clean them and clean/check the channel for obstruction. Be sure the depress the pin into the hole and orient the grove while screwing in the retaining screw.
Thanks or the tip Apiarian, I'll do that tomorrow evening. I have only fired a little over 100 rounds of mixed brands and types of ammo through it since it was new, but I guess enough gunk could have built up to slow down the firing pin a bit. Some of that ammo was from Yugoslavia and other eastern European sources, and some I handloaded with Unique propellant which burns kind of dirty, so I should have expected the gun itself to also be dirty.
Rotating magazines every six months so one can "rest" is folly.
Springs do not rest.
They wear out from cycling.
So unloading one and loading the other one just flexes both springs one more time in their life cycle.
BTW: My P3AT mags have been left fully loaded for four years now, except when I shoot them empty.
The springs are still just fine.
I still have M-16 mags left loaded since I "acquired" them from the Army in 1970.
The springs are just fine.
BTW: As for your mis-fires? Be sure you aren't short-stroking the trigger and snapping off the hammer block. Without a full trigger re-set, the hammer will "snap" but you just get a shallow dent in the primer.