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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone tried the Wolf 380 ammo? I just bought some from AIM. Good price for a 30 round box of ball.
Thanks Bruce
 

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Unless it is Wolf Gold (brass cased), I would pass on any steel cased ammo. KT will tell you the same. These ultralight guns are not designed for that ammo. It may or may not function well.
 

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TxCajun said:
Unless it is Wolf Gold (brass cased), I would pass on any steel cased ammo.  KT will tell you the same.  These ultralight guns are not designed for that ammo.  It may or may not function well.
Great advice. I've shot steel cased .380 in my P3AT in a pinch before when that was all I could find and it worked fine... but my P3AT seems to be more forgiving than most as it will eat any ammo I put through it.
 

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TxCajun said:
Unless it is Wolf Gold (brass cased), I would pass on any steel cased ammo.  KT will tell you the same.  These ultralight guns are not designed for that ammo.  It may or may not function well.
At a guess, it would seem less likely that steel cased ammo would suffer a case rupture in the unsupported area.

That said, yeah, I know that the steel won't expand and seal in the chamber the way that brass does.  Still, I've seen enough people worried about case ruptures in the P3AT that it might be worth considering along that front.  

It should be noted that the manual which comes with the gun(s) say nothing about steel cased vs brass. However, the manual states to only use factory original ammunition, specifically barring reloads. It also states to never "store" the firearm with a round in the chamber. And the P32 manual specifically states on pp3, "The P-32 will accept +P ammuntion" when I could have sworn that there is no SAAMI rating for +P in .32ACP.

My point being that KT (and every other company on the face of the Earth) says a lot of things just for CYA.

<shrug>  Not my gun, not my call.

Peace favor your sword,
Kirk
 

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Hmm.

The P-32 manual also states a limit of 200 foot pounds of energy, and no loading that I know of excepting maybe RCBD (271 ft. lbs.) That sort of makes more sense as the P3AT, a slighty beefed up version of the P-32 is rated at 250 ft. pounds of energy. The problem with steel other than the gas sealing is that it doesn't grab the chamber as well resulting in more energy going back into the slide, and higher cycling speeds, more wear, etc. Steel cases might be OK for ocassional practice, burt I wouldn't make a habit of shooting them from a P3AT.

Best Wishes:
 

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i have some wolf gold that i use when i carry, but at the range i use FMJ Lellier and bellot. it doesnt say if its steel cased or not, but it looks brass colored, does anyone know if this is ok to use?
 

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Wolf Gold is brass-cased. IIRC, it is made in the same Serbian factory where Prvi Partizan ammo is produced, as is Academy's store brand Monarch and one or two others. They are likely all about the same ammo.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
My mother told me never to shoot commie ammo in non-commie guns!! The only pistol I shoot Wolf in is a Makarov.
 

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I bought a box of Herter’s .380’s the other day. They have the Tula head stamp. Tula makes Wolf. The range report is BAD. Every round fed properly. Every round ejected properly. I tried to shoot 10 rounds, only 2 fired on the first try. The remainders need multiple strikes to fire. I took the gun apart and cleaned the firing pin, spring and firing pin slot. Then I oiled them. Next trip shooting I had the same exact results. For a comparison WW ball fired flawlessly.
 

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Which Herter's was that... brass or steel cased?

BTW, that stuff may be inconsistent. I've similar BAD reports but also reports of it working fine. :-/
 

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I would not recommend any steel cased ammo in these ultralight weapons. Heavy com-block guns were designed to shoot steel cased ammo. Most full sized guns will handle it OK. Kel-tec pistols don't qualify. If asked, KT will advise against it. Anyway, it sounds like hard primers were the issue with that stuff.
 
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