which p3at

Discussion in 'P-3AT' started by moonshot, Dec 25, 2007.

  1. moonshot

    moonshot New Member

    Apr 4, 2007
    I am again in the market for a P3at. I had one, lost confidence in it, and sold it. After further review, I have decided to give it another try.

    I have been looking at the examples available locally, and all I can get now are the blued versions. Parkerized are hard to find, and hard chrome seems to have evaporated. Are the blued versions sufficiently corrosion-proof, or should I wait for a parkerized or hard chrome gun?

    Also, my old P3at had the beginnings of slide peening, as well as occasional mag seating issues. Would you all recommend I install the recoil guide rod buffer washer and/or metal mag catch as a preventative measure, or wait until I actually need the piece.

    I ask because I would prefer to prevent a problem from starting rather than fix a problem after it happens, but I have some concerns over installing non-OEM after market parts. Should I need to use my gun in self-defense, I am concerned about possible liability over these non-OEM parts (kind of like using hand loads).

    Any opinions?

  2. virtual-rj

    virtual-rj New Member

    Jul 22, 2007
    Houston, TX
    IMO, the buffer for the recoil rod is NO DIFFERENT than a recoil buffer for a 1911-type pistol or any other type part.  It does not functionally change the designed function of the gun and therefore is not a liability issue.  (USE THESE OPINIONS AT YOUR OWN RISK)

    I use them because they tend to lessen the perceived recoil and "banging" going on with the little hand cannon.

    As far as the mag catch, I would call KT AFTER getting a P3AT,and they open back up after break, and get  a spare.  The current supplier of metal mag catches is currently working on getting  caught up, and it may be a while until he is.  If you do not forcefully slam the magazine into the gun, you should not need one anyways.

    In regards to corrosion and rusting, I simply used TUrtle Wax (yes, the car polish) on mine, and buffed with a dremel on low speed.  It seems to be doing the trick for me.

    Get whatever you can, and shoot safe.

    Welcome back

  3. Cap

    Cap New Member

    Nov 13, 2007
    If you,re going to carry the piece anywhere near your body,As myself a waistband carry,no holster,Id recommend the hard chrome..Should hold up far better than the parked version....
  4. ClayMan

    ClayMan New Member

    Dec 15, 2007
    Moonshot, my first KT was a P32 that was in blue, but had to get factory service due to a broken trigger mechanism after only about 30 rounds. I had KT hard chrome it while it was at the factory. So I never even carried it with the original blued finish before I got it chromed. I then replaced that P32 with a P3AT which I bought explicitly with the hard chrome. I love the hard chrome finish for both the look but more so because I have not had any rust or anything on either of my guns that I always carry in my pocket. So, IMHO, wait for the hard chrome...you won't regret it unless you prefer the look/feel of the blue or park better, the hard chrome is essentially worry and maintenance free. Just my opinion.
  5. Bobo

    Bobo Well-Known Member Supporter

    Jun 13, 2005
    Here’s what I would do if I were you…

    I would buy the blued version that looked like it had the thickest metal at the slide hole.

    I would also add a slip-on grip and magazine finger extensions.

    I would shoot the gun until it is broken in and I feel confident with it. If, during the break in period peening or any other problems occur I would fix it myself or send it back to Kel-Tec. I would repeat until I have a well broken in gun that I am confident in.

    Then I would send the slide (and maybe mags) to Jack Fuselier for nickel plating.

    BTW my P3-AT that I have been carrying 24/7 in a SmartCarry in Virginia for almost two years now is Parkerized and it shows no signs of rust or corrosion. I like my Park’ed gun, but if were to do it again I’d go the route I just described above. I just happen to like the look and added toughness of the nickel and chromed slides.

    Just my personal opinion…

  6. FLA2760

    FLA2760 Active Member

    Aug 22, 2005
    +1 on what Bobo said on breaking in the P3AT and recomending Jack Fuslier. ;)
  7. wheelguy

    wheelguy New Member

    May 4, 2007
    After reading all the "I have x problem" posts over the past year, it appears to several KTOGers that the chrome version has fewer problems than the other 2. Speculation is that perhaps KT spends more time and attention on the chromed ones because of the demands of the chrome plating process. I think it is also a good "sign" that chromed ones are the most difficult to find. Sort of a "reading the tea leaves" going on there, but it's the best I can offer :)
  8. fwm

    fwm Active Member

    Jun 14, 2006
    NW MO
    After carrying my parked for a year IWB and constantly fighting rust in the wear areas, I had mine HC'ed and have not had any maintenance problems since. (3 more years)
  9. Sangueffusor

    Sangueffusor New Member

    May 13, 2007
    I have been front pocket carrying for 8 months with a blued P3-AT, and it has a small amount of wear on the slide. There is no rust on it at all. The barrel, which on blued guns is simply bare steel, has no rust either. I live in Indiana, which is quite humid but probably not as bad as, say, Florida.
  10. Plex

    Plex New Member

    Feb 23, 2005
    My 1G P3AT is Parkerized.  It shows signs of wear after a few years, but NO rust.