When I purchased my P-11 I also purchased a cleaning kit and Remington Rem Oil. I was wondering is there a better lubricant to use
Agreed with running well on "only" oil. Since I'm into bicycle repair also, I have found that my bike grease transitions well onto my P11 too. So any of them should work well for you. DON'T glop it on...read the above link showing the spots to grease.Remoil is good stuff. However, with this gun you also need to use grease on the slide rails, hammer/slide interface bar & assembly pin. Any kind will do.
I use Remoil & Gunslick Graphite Grease. Have a tube from long ago.
My P40 will not run with just oil.
to be continuedProper lubrication will insure that your pistol functions correctly when called upon, for years to come. There are many brands of lubricants, and someone will claim that each is THE best. While some are better than others, it is much less important which brands you use, than how often, and where you use them.
Firearms should be cleaned and re-lubricated after every time they are fired. Even when they have not been fired, they should be cleaned and lubricated on a regular basis. Carry pistols, should be cleaned at least once a month since they are exposed to dust, lint and other contaminants. Guns that sit in a safe can be cleaned less often if not used, but you should clean them a couple times a year.
Lubrication of a typical pistol is best accomplished with use of both grease and oil or CLP. Below are illustrated the basics of where to lubricate a pistol. The pistol pictured is a Kel-Tec P32, but the principles can be transferred to most any other pistol. Places to use grease are lettered, places to use oil / CLP are numbered. Don't get carried away applying lubricants, you just want enough to lightly coat the parts. Not enough so that it runs off or is thrown off during use.
(use of oil / CLP in place of grease is fine if grease is not available or possibly even preferred in colder climates)
A coat the face of the hammer
B coat the entire length of both frame rails
1 between the trigger bar and frame
2 on the hammer axis
3 on the trigger axis
work the trigger a few times to help distribute the oil
quotes from http://web.archive.org/web/20121022040611/http://goldenloki.com/gunsmith/keltec/lube.htmB coat entire length of both slide rails
C coat the hammer interface
D coat the inside of the barrel under lug
4 run an oiled patch through the barrel, followed by a dry patch to remove any excess
5 coat the belled area of the outside of the barrel
6 coat the guide rod
Reassemble as normal, and very lightly coat all exposed metal with oil to protect from corrosion. That's all there is to it.
Goldenloki was on the forums earlier today doing some business with SK2, said he was leaving within the next four weeks, maybe someone can contact him to see if he still has copies of the website pages or can retrieve them from his host server provider (unlikely that his host provider has deleted it from their backups). If there is a cost incurred, I'd be willing to kick-in a bit to help pay the fee.haugrdr said:Some of that stuff in those links is just gone. Goldenloki shut his site down and the info went away.
I use Break Free CLP on springs and all internal parts, a very thin coat. On rails of all my guns I use Lucas extreme duty gun grease. Use a paint brush to apply the grease, it’ll leave a thin even coat. Any gun oil and any gun grease will do the trick. The only time the oil or grease will be pushed to it limit is if your doing mag dumps in the high hundreds to thousands as quickly as humanly possible. So don’t worry on the brand of oil or grease as long as your using gun Products ( they are formulated for firearms ).When I purchased my P-11 I also purchased a cleaning kit and Remington Rem Oil. I was wondering is there a better lubricant to use
Rust protection?:this guy dod a pretty good looking series of tests on a whole bunch of gun lube products.. made me look at hornady one shot lube. Comprehensive Corrosion Test: 46 Products Compared | Day At The Range