I got a new hammer spring assembly from keltec yesterday. I have tried about 10 times to assemble and have the same problem. That problem is..... the trigger will not spring foward. I have the hammer block assembly in the correct location and have compared it to my other P3AT and it all looks good. I cant get the dang trigger to function it is resting all the way in the "pulled" position. Thanks, everything else assembles properly.
There is a separate spring that makes the trigger return forward. My guess would be that while the receiver was out of the frame something else came disconnected. You’re probably focusing on the parts you removed and replaced and some other part is the problem but because you didn't intentionally mess with it you don't know where to look. (I've done the same kind of thing before) It's hard to guess exactly what it would be. All I can say is if I were you I would study the parts drawing in your manual or on Kel-Tec's website and see if you can find a disparity between what you have and what they show.
Thanks, From what I can tell (double checked) I have all parts. I have stripped this gun before and am familiar with it, its a pretty simple piece. The spring on the trigger pulls it to the rear and keeps it in the fired position. I think the problem is some where around the hammer block assembly and getting stuff to line up when the guts of the gun is layed on top of it while it is pushed foward and getting it to catch properly. It is something stupid, but evidently smarter than me! Keep the help comming! Thanks!
Well I know when you place the receiver back into the frame you need to slide something under the receiver between it and the top of the back of the frame and push the hammerblock forward so it catches properly on the bottom of the hammer. It's a pain to try and get something in there far enough to position things right without lifting the receiver so far it won't catch when you pull it out. (I'm not sure if I'm making sense) At any rate I know that's a bit tricky and can cause problems on reassembly but I'm not sure if that would prevent the trigger from returning forward.
I found this from packer in an old post; REASSEMBLY: 1. If you haven't already done this: Bevel the end of the recoil rod just a bit so it will fit into the hole easier. This will prevent much frustration trying to get the springs onto the barrel. 2. Lay the slide upside down. 3. Place the barrel into the slide. 4. While controlling the springs with one hand, push the recoil rod (while compressing the springs.) into the hole in front of slide. Then ease it back and into the socket on barrel. 5. Lube the barrel cams, hammer slide and slide rails. 6. Insert part #115 back into its slot . It may take you awhile to get it right. It only goes in one way. 7. If you have pulled the trigger or dropped the hammer while the slide was off--thingy the hammer back. (If hammer is down, slide will not go on.) 8. put slide onto aluminum rails. push until it stops and then wiggle the barrel side to side to make it go on all the way. 9. Push slide slightly back about 1/4 inch and hold it there. 10. With the tip of the assembly pin angled slightly up, push down on the spring in the hole with the side of the pin. Now guide the pin INTO the hole, and while wiggling the barrel, push the pin all the way in until it clicks. 11. make sure the plastic grip is not bulged out at the assembly pin and the pin is in tight. If the grip is bulged, remove the pin and push spring down (while holding pressure on grip) until it clicks into place. 12 Now rack the slide back a few times to check for proper operation. That's it. Packer.
Thanks, but that is more like a basic field strip not a complete tear down and re-assembly wich is where my problem lies.
Well, theres your problem right there! Seriously, if it is the trigger spring pulling the trigger to the rear, something is backward. It should pull it forward. Check this link and make sure you have the hammer-block in the frame the right way. It would go in backward, but the spring would not have a place to fit. http://www.goldenloki.com/guns/keltec/ktp32assem.htm I can't see any way the trigger spring could be assembled wrong or the arm wouldn't fit in the pocket in the frame. rcmodel
Hey, Reel_Adventure, from what you described, ya' might try this: with the frame out of the rail put the trigger bar on which, of course, means the groove for the spring will be upside down. Oh, you might clean out the groove and fill with grease. Next, turn the trigger bar spring counter clockwise until it engages the groove. This should lift up the bar and the trgger should come forward. Reassemble, making sure you push that hammer blcok all the way forward and the rail almost snaps into place in the grip, fasten the hammer spring, put the frame pins back in, half cock the hammer, put the slide back on, insert snap cap and, hopefully, you'll be good to go. Sounds like you're doing everything with the possibility of the trigger bar spring. You may have to lift it out and turn it and reinsert it such that when you turn it counter clockwise there is tension on it and it lifts the trigger bar up when you get the spring in the groove. Hope this helps. Regards, Lynnsky
Hi Reel_Adventure. The trigger spring needs to be wound COUNTER CLOCKWISE and inserted into the groove underneath the trigger bar. It sounds to me like you have wound it CLOCKWISE instead of counter clockwise. The spring has to push the trigger bar UP. Oh! Now that I have put my glasses on, I see that Lynnsky has already given you good advice. Here are reassembly directions for a PF9 (which is basically a larger P3AT with a slide stop.): http://www.ktog.org/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1176553013#11 Packer.
THANKS GUYS!. You guys were both right, but I found it on my own a few hours ago! I forgot all about that spring and the groove and it looks so natural in the wrong position. I thank you guys and everyone for their help!. My opinion on kel tec is pretty low right now, so low in fact I have went back to carrying my glock 26, but I honestly believe the best thing about kel tec is THIS forum and the great members it has. That in itself is worth quite a bit. I think I am going to sell both of my 2nd gen p3at's one black and chrome (or whatever) and the other green and blue, both work great with a few 100 rounds through each one. Its just I had a hammer spring break and it would not fire the one in the pipe when I actually needed it to (to shoot a shark my customer wanted to keep). Kel Tec sent me a new replacement FAST no questions asked!! Great service. I just cant put my life on the line for good service in case I had to.... I am a firm believer that even if it were to jam I could make the first shot count....and it would not fire. I could only imagine IF I REALLY needed it!! I could be dead right now, if you want to play it to the extreme. Its sort of like a dog that bit you...i cant figure out how to trust it again. If I do sell, i also have some extra mags and a awesome stellar rigs front pocket holster I will sell and the origional boxes etc. decisions, decisions......
I’ll go $300 for the pair shipped UPS ground to my FFL. Wilson – who’s family always welcomes unwanted children
Dang, I wanna sell them....not give em away! I will let them both go for $450. It will cost me 25 ftf per gun plus shipping ups ground I figure that to be around $10. There is 60 right there minus 450 = $390 divided by two = 195 per gun, will throw in any extra mags I have for free. Just let me know, might sell them local, might keep one of them, might keep both. It just depends on what ya want to do and what kind of mood ya catch me in.
Why would you pay an FFL fee? Federal law only requires the out of state buyer have an FFL. My FFL will happily receive “machine parts” shipped UPS ground (about $10 for an insured one-pound package) and charge me only a $10 transfer fee. Any FFL that tells you the shipper must also use an FFL is fibbing. Wilson – who’s feeling so down, he’ll need to buy another P-3AT to cheer himself up
Why would you pay an FFL fee? Federal law only requires the out of state buyer have an FFL. My FFL will happily receive “machine parts” shipped UPS ground (about $10 for an insured one-pound package) and charge me only a $10 transfer fee. Any FFL that tells you the shipper must also use an FFL is fibbing. Wilson – who’s feeling so down, he’ll need to buy another P-3AT to cheer himself up [/quote] Hmm, I will be making a phone call right now! Just made the phone call. If I ship it through them I will pay a standard fee to transfer it plus shipping (profit for the gun shop for doing it I guess) and then you are correct you would fill out paper work and transfer it to you. The hell with the dealer. Can I send machine parts to your dealer?
Yes, as long as you use commercial carriers (UPS, FedEX. etc.) and not the US Post Office. My FFL knows the law and has no problem accepting packages sent by individuals from out of state. Only the out of state buyer needs an FFL to comply with federal law. Wilson – who’s still there with his $300 offer
To get back for a minute to the reason you want to sell your Kel-Tecs, you might rethink it.... I've personally had a Glock 19 trigger spring break when I really, really didn't want to have a problem with my gun. The armorers in the large PD I'm retired from replace a double handful of them every year. If it can happen to a well-maintained Glock, it can certainly happen with anything. I wouldn't be too hard on your .380's on account of a broken spring. Stuff happens....
Hi John. Welcome to KTOG! That was a very nice and informative first post. I'll bet you coud tell some stories over at the Counter! I look forward to hearing MORE from you. Packer.
