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Hey, I see that alot of people are adding a washer to the GR hole in an attempt to prolong or prevent the peening issues....can anyone tell me what kind/make/model/or size washers have fit well for you...preferrably something that I could buy at a hardware store...thanks
 

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Unfortunately not anybody that I am aware of has had any luck at a hardware store. JFB posted the dimensions somewhere but I dont' remember the title of the thread. Do a search for "Washer" in posts by JFB in the Advanced Search area in the top grey bar above and you might be able to find it.

Someone posted recently in one of the peening threads that they were able to find something at a toy/hobby store and grind/drill it to fit.

-Scott
 

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manrOe:

I fished around in my parts box until I found a steel washer that already fit pretty well. I just hit the rim of it with a dremel and it fit nice and snug. It measures 1/4 inch wide. I opened up the hole for the guide rod a little and it now measures 5/32 inch. The hardest part was thinning it down and that wasn't too bad. I ended up holding it in place with a pencil eraser and running back and forth across a file. I got it down to about 1/2 millimeter thick and may thin it down a little more. No measureable difference when the slide is retracted. I think the main thing is to distribute the spring pressure a little wider (that stupid taper seems to be just made for pusing the springs out!) and anything that's not too thick should work.

marco
 

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a metal washer should be better, however, you might want to consider a smaller ID

5/32 ID=0.156 =4mm
rrod OD= 0.133 =3,4mm
clearance=0.023 =0,6mm
inner wire dia 0.020 =0,5mm
:-/

1/2mm = 0.020 thickness

most hardware stores have numbered bits you buy seperate

a got a #29 Vermont/Yankee drill bit for $1
#29=0.136"

or a 3,5mm drill bit is about 0.138"
but i've never looked for metric bits
 

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JFB:

I see what you mean about the inner diameter being too large. However, I was concerned about the guide rod needing to move up and down a little and didn't want the washer to impinge on it. Would a better idea be to make the outer diameter smaller as well so the whole washer could move with the guide rod? Or maybe a washer this thin would not make a difference on guide rod movement?

marco
 

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Good point,
The rod does tilt up and down as it goes through the hole.  so even if the rod slides easily through when pushed straight in by hand, if the tight fitting hole is long, it will bind at the ends.


I would think for a thin flat washer, that then rest on the outer  of the drill taper, the two clearance defining holes will be "far apart" (0.040" for 150 degree bit).  so for 5 degrees of tilt during recoil, either the washer or the slide needs to have just 0.004" more opening, and if you have peening, the slide will already be open
 

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JFB:

Now that you point it out, the "far apart" space may be the biggest problem with washers in the tapered holes. With the washer sitting up away from the hole in the slide, I see what you mean about basically creating a dead space that the rod has to pass through, and at an angle at that! It would seem the best thing would be to try to remove the taper but that is probably beyond most people's ability to do at home.

marco
 

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Mine P3AT is not tapered, but P32 is.

But the ones with the severe problem, the taper is all the way to the out side. So if you remove metal to eliminate the taper, BIG hole.

the thicknes of the hole in my P3AT is 0.050". with those where the taper comes to "paper thin", by ADDING the washer that has been tapered to match the drilled bottom, it restores the 0.050" and puts the spring base back to where it should be
 

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Help me understand this, I don’t have my Keltec with me. Was the C-bore for the guide-rod exit hole done with a drill bit? If so there would be a “gap” between the washer and front of the slide. Did they use a true C-bore on any slides produced? My serial number starts with J1xxx I’ll be pulling it apart tonight and taking a look, I did notice a VERY slight rise in the metal around the guide-rod hole yesterday.

I may make up a die to form some washers to match the angle of the exit hole if there is interest here. I could order some drill rod (softened) the correct OD and make some that will fit once I get the dimensions. If Keltec is going to address this I may not go through the trouble, if not, this would be easier than polishing a new slide every couple for months.

Kev
 

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cgs500 said:
..Was the C-bore for the guide-rod exit hole done with a drill bit?..
...I could order some drill rod (softened) the correct OD and make some that will fit once I get the dimensions...
From what I gather, there is no consistance method.

My P3AT is not a true flat bottom C-B but pretty close.  My P32 was done with ~150 degree tip drill.  some of the photos posted look even steeper and all the tip just breaking through

your proposed steel washer machined to fit the drill taper, to me, could be the factory repair.

after machining, then harden, then interfarnce press in.  you could even add a little lip to act as a retainer for the outer sping inside diameter.



additional info posted here recoil rod guide insert

there is a history link there
 
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