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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Last weekend I decided to buy some gun grease on my P-3AT 2nd Gen to help with my FTE occaisional problems. I cleaned and greased as described on this site. I also added a Handall Jr sleeve grip. I took the gun out to the range yesterday. I had stove pipes and jams every 2 - 3 shots. I left in disgust after putting 17 rounds through my gun. I went home with the intentions of sending the P-3AT back to KEL-TEC for them to check for defects. I was going to sell it after it came back from the factory. It turns out that KEL-TEC is closed until Jan 7. I then decided to field strip the gun and clean the hell out of it. I also used the F&B method described on this site. I sanded the rails and everything else that the instructions called for. I never use grease on my Beretta PX4 so I decided to just use only oil after the sanding of any rough edges was complete. I removed the Handall sleeve grip as I thought that it may have caused the gun to jump a bit inside the sleeve when firing. This may have simulated limp wrist (I think?).
I took the gun out a couple of hours ago and went through 25 rounds of the same ammo as yesterday (WWB) without a hitch. I then got a Failure to Fire (FTF). I kept pulling the trigger and nothing happened. There was no grab to the trigger. The hammer didn't even try to move. I pulled the slide back and ejected the round, and the gun worked fine. This happened two more times as I shot a total of 53 rounds today.
It looks like I have solved the FTE problem with the fluff abd buff and I am really relieved. I have fired a total of 235 rounds through this gun. I am begining to feel a little better about it. I am not ready to trust it with my life just yet.
Anyone know what I need to do next for the FTF of 3 rounds out of 53?

Rich
 

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Don't short-stroke the trigger. It MUST return fully forward (2 clicks) or you are snapping off the hammer block. This will result in a light strike every time.
 

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The P3AT doesn't have second-strike capability.

You have to cycle the slide at least a 1/4" to re-set the trigger each time.

You also have to fully release the trigger each shot or you will get miss-fires.

When you release the trigger you should hear two distinct "clicks" as it goes fully forward.

The first click is the hammer safety-block resetting.
The second is the trigger bar / hammer re-setting.

If you pull the trigger without a full re-set, it will snap the hammer off of the hammer-block safety, but the gun will not fire.


rcmodel
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I wore a bandaid on my trigger finger today. Mainly because the trigger is brutal on my very large index finger. My finger just barely fits with the bandaid. I have to wedge it inside the guard. Perhaps that prevented me from fully releasing the trigger? I will have to watch for that. Thanks for the great advice. BTW, I am so happy that I finally had a day without one single FTE. The fluff and Buff really works. This website is GREAT!
 

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It sounds like your big finger is the most likely culprit. Consider smoothing inside the trigger guard with some 400 - 600 grit sand paper. You may even gain a thousandth or 2 of room for your finger and the smoother guard won't beat you up as much. Tape or bandaid on finger while shooting helps more than afterward. Congrats on not giving up and sending it back. For always carry, the P3AT cannot be beaten. ;D
 

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Vette said:
I wore a bandaid on my trigger finger today. Mainly because the trigger is brutal on my very large index finger.
You are releasing the trigger too soon, before recoil is done. If you HOLD the trigger back until
after the slide has cycled, then it won't bite you.

IE: Your trigger finger is moving forward while the trigger guard is moving backwards. When the two meed it IS painful. My finger NEVER gets hurt and I rapid fire from two hands at once.

Packer.
 
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