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Discussion Starter #1
Sorry for making my first post a cry for help, but I've been lurking these pages for about a year now and I don't know a better group of guys to ask help on my new pf9.
So bought a new pf9 as soon as I saw pops had triggers instock. Had the gun for about a month shooting about 300 rounds through her with out a hiccup. Sat on the new trigger for 2 weeks then i decided it was time. Trigger install went pretty easy, besides cutting the old trigger off, damn barbed trigger pin! Now when I thought I got it all together, it doesn't go bang. I tore down and put back together the gun about 3 times total now, and I cannot figure out what I'm doing wrong. I think I'm not grasping setting the hammer block. The trigger gets full movement but it's not moving the hammer like is is suppose to.
I use the bic pen trick, and getting full movement forward past the frame. I'm going to tear it appart again tonight and hopefully post some pictures of my process. Any one with experience, or advice on this trick please chime in.

Thanks in advanced.
Matt
 

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Get a flat head screw driver, the wider flat area of the screw driver works better, before dropping the assembly into the grip practice using the flat head to flick and hold the hammer all the way forward pointing towards the front of the gun, this is how it needs to be when u drop the assembly into the grip.

When holding it forward u have to leave the screwdriver in there holding it forward until theres no more room for the assembly, then still gently pushing down on assembly pull the screwdriver out the hammer shouldnt have room to pop back.

Hook the spring back up in the bottom grip u should be good.
 

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When pushing the hammer block back in place, the most common mistake is not to push the hammer block forward enough. It must go all the way forward, or the hammer will not "catch" properly on the sear. As noted, be sure the hammer is forward, and the rear of the frame should be elevated about 1/2 inch or so to give enough clearance for the hammer block to go forward. You might try pushing the hammer block fully forward without the frame installed in the grip in order to get a feel of how far forward you have to push (whether using a small screwdriver or something else). Unless the hammer block is fully forward when you press the rear of frame down, you get what you are experiencing. That is, the trigger will move, but will not activate the hammer.

Jim R
 

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It took me awhile to get that part right the first time, but once you do it its pretty easy to work on this gun.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok so I see full forward movement of the hammer block, and before I put the slide on the trigger feels fine. As soon as I lock the slide on the hammer doesn't move? It seems like I'm missing something easy here, I just don't see what it is.
Thanks for the advice so far, I think I figured out posting pics, I just don't know what to show you all.
 

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If you print out and use the excellent set of instructions posted on Nortwood's site :pF-9 Installation Guide Rev. 22 5MB PDF you should be fine.
 

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Still holding off the Pop's trigger. The more I read, the more I want one, just not sure about the install. I've had my Ruger 22-45 apart and installed new parts in it and got it back together. That is supposed to be one of the worst pistols to reassemble. I'm thinking I can do the trigger switch. I may end up with questions though.
 

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Still holding off the Pop's trigger. The more I read, the more I want one, just not sure about the install. I've had my Ruger 22-45 apart and installed new parts in it and got it back together. That is supposed to be one of the worst pistols to reassemble. I'm thinking I can do the trigger switch. I may end up with questions though.
I would encourage you to forge ahead.

The only tricky part of the install IMHO is the hammer block thing. You will need to master that in any event, if you want to fully clean and lube your pistol: The only way to clean and grease the trigger bar is to pop the frame out of the grip.
 

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Thanks 2Eagle. I gathered that from all the stuff that I've read about it. I think I'm going to go ahead and bite the bullet so to speak and try the conversion. I'm trying to get 25 posts for the discount, and post the way you're supposed to. If I have any trouble I know where to come for advice. Thanks again. :D
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I am using the instruction, they help a million! But that hammer block part, it says and shows holding it back when pushing the block forward, that I do, but before I put the slide on should I release it with the trigger? It almost seems like its right until I have the slide on. :(

And I would allready recommend this trigger. Even though I'm having a little problem it wouldn't deter me from recommending this product
 

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You push the hammer block forward while you lower the frame into the grip (gradually pulling out your "holding tool" as it interferes with dropping the frame the last little ways into the grip).

You do not drop the hammer or pull the trigger before installing the slide.
 

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When properly set the hammer should be up as shown in the picture in the instructions, I believe in the half cocked position once you get the hammer spring back in position.Correct me if thats the wrong phrasing.
 

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Does your trigger operate the hammer as shown on the "Checks" page 22?

If so you are done with the trigger and just need to close the gun up.

If the trigger operates OK until you install the slide, you may be missing a critical step there. While installing the slide, as the slide and barrel come even with the front of the grip, push down slightly on the barrel hood (visable through the ejection port). Then you can run the slide the rest of the way to the slide-stop. If you don't follow this step the barrel will probably continue with the slide beyond the front of the grip and be AFU. During installation of the slide, the barrel should remain out of the slide and even with the front of the grip.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I did have a heck of a problem with that at first but a you tube video solved that quickly.
I'm trying to isolate the problem to what I did wrong, the over travel is perfect, with the slide off. If tried it with no barrel in at all and came up with this observation.

As soon as the slide pushes down the trigger bar the trigger doesn't work. I rechecked the trigger spring and it looks good?? Gees I'm sorry guys, I don't get it. Didn't take me this long to figure out the complete take down of my 1911. Maybe if there isn't another tip I'll snap some pictures of what I've done and you may see something I'm missing.

Thank you again for everything.
 

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Bigdude - wondering if your pre-travel clearance is sufficient. Looking at this thread, I don't see where it was addressed yet. Try this:

With the gun assembled, rack your slide back and hold it there.

With the slide held back, pull the trigger, and hold it back while releasing the slide.

Now slowly release your trigger.

You should feel TWO distinct clicks. If you are not getting a second click (plus an additional 1/8" of remaining travel), then you still need to trim some material from the front edge of the trigger cutout in the grip. Also make sure your trigger pin is seated completely, and the setscrew is turned ALL the way in and tight.

Hope this helps - Pops :)
 

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I think he still does not have the hammer block set properly, mine did the same thing until I finallly got the hammer block set.
 

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you can even use the pin punch that pops includes in the kit to push the hammer bloc

the reason the pen refill tube is used is that it won't scratch anything and it is somewhat crushable as you lower the frame into the grip.
 
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