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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Accurate and amazing when it doesnt give me a light primer strike

I found every 20 rounds or so Id get a no fire and checking the round there is a light strike. Firing it again is fine.

Also the keltec mags suck, using AR15 mags with no issues

Is there something I can do for the light primer strikes?
 

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Is there something I can do for the light primer strikes?
There is no magic answer to a gun that does not work well. It's either change part after part until you hit upon one that's out of spec (and hope it's not the receiver :)), or send it to the manufacturer who will change part after part until they hit one that's out of spec -- only at no charge for you. It really is the only choice you have, assuming you aren't going to sell he gun and make it someone else's problem.
 

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As for light stikes.

I would straight up just start with replacing the firing pin. It cost 13 bucks.

When you install the new firing pin make sure the channel it sits in is clean. I do not lube it. I feel that lube will collect powder dirt and grim and clog up the firing pin.

You also may wish to order a new hammer spring.

I think they cost like 3 bucks.
 

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Would it cause 1 every 20 or so?

There were also double feeds but those are the keltec mags...switched to AR15 mags all good with that
I don't know.:confused: I'm throwing out thoughts in hopes something will clear up your problem. I'm glad that 'click' instead of BANG is merely annoying and not dangerous.
At least you have the mag issue cleared up. :)
Any idea about use before you got it?
 

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The firing pin is a critical component which is a subject to wear, as well as - let's face it - sometimes out of spec from the factory. It is one of things I would swap out first.

That said, its total length is probably less critical than the protrusion length, regulated by the distance from the tip to the shoulder upon which it sits inside the bolt.

One thing to check before go swapping pins even is to look for a speck of metal (a shaving) being stuck in the firing pin channel at the place where it goes narrow. I had a case (not on SU-16) where, in a similar design, a piece of metal worked its way into the striker channel this way and caused light strikes. I found that by looking there with a powerful flashlight and eyeglasses :) When I saw it, I fashioned a pick out of a stick and dislodged it so that Q-tip made a short work of it. Saved the cost of a pile of new parts that weren't needed.

P.S. My SU used to create a ton of shavings, mostly from scratching ammo upon the locking lugs. They never gave me any trouble, but you know... if it can happen once in a million, we'll hear about it on forums.
 

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OK, I read somewhere, bad brain farts, that with the semi-auto rifles that have high twist barrels, 1:7 and 1:8, the the timing can go off unless you use the heavier weight .223/5.56 bullets, 62 grains or preferably 77 grain bullets. I'm not a proctologist though I play one on TV.
 

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OK, I read somewhere, bad brain farts, that with the semi-auto rifles that have high twist barrels, 1:7 and 1:8, the the timing can go off unless you use the heavier weight .223/5.56 bullets, 62 grains or preferably 77 grain bullets. I'm not a proctologist though I play one on TV.
Most new ARs are 1/7 or 1/8. Heavier weight ammo will be more accurate but they'll shoot 55gr no problem.
 

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OK, I read somewhere, bad brain farts, that with the semi-auto rifles that have high twist barrels, 1:7 and 1:8, the the timing can go off unless you use the heavier weight .223/5.56 bullets, 62 grains or preferably 77 grain bullets. I'm not a proctologist though I play one on TV.
It's more like this, as a rule of thumb:

1:14 (almost unheard of today) - can barely support 55 on a good day, use 52 for sure
1:12 - 55 grain
1:10 - 62 grain or lighter
1:9 - 70 grain or lighter
1:7 - 77 grain or lighter; note that the military uses 62 grain in 1:7 because they use specialty rounds such as tracers and because they use M4 sized barrels. In bolt actions with 24 inch barrels people stuff up to 90 grains bullets into 1:7.

Note that the ability to stabilize is proportional to rotation rate, so a longer barrel will stabilize heavier bullets with the same twist, because muzzle velocity is greater.

I have a Charlie with 1:9, but I'm stuck in the world of 55-grainers because I've got ancient 5.56 guns such as Mini-14 and BLR.
 

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1:14 was the original twist for 55gr. The low stability gave the devastating wound ballistics the early M16 were (in)famous for, with acceptable accuracy in temperate weather. The Army went to 1:12 to improve stability, and therefore accuracy in cold weather. The increased stability reduced wound ballistics
 
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