I have a PF9 and have complete confidence in it. It did have a firing pin light strike issue but I resolved that with some light polishing and new extractor screw. I have snap cap.
Is the .380 version essentially the same as a PF9 internally?
Why does it NOT have a slide hold open, even the .32 model does?
I was considering the .32 but the ammo is not worth what is cost, and well... it is a .32.
I think I can make use of the Keltec mag extensions and also wonder if with a slight mod I can Brownells Acraglas those to my PF9 mags.
The P3AT and PF-9 while they share many of the same design features are not the same internally. The PF-9 in design is in essence a scaled up P-32, and the P3AT doesn't have a hold open. I do not know why there is not a hold open on the P3AT, I do know that the Taurus TCP which is slightly larger does have one, but tend to have more operating problems than the P3AT. My guess is that Kel-tec engineering a larger cartridge in the same frame left it out for better reliability.
The 32 ACP and 380 Auto have roughly the same stopping power in FMJ ammo the 380 Auto has a greater frontal area, but the 32 ACP tends to tumble like a rifle bullet causing more tissue damage, making both rounds roughly equal. I wasn't until ammunition makers started using new technology on 380 JHP's that it gained an edge. The newest genration of Corbon DPX in 32 ACP should narrow that edge as the OAL should be long enough to negate the rimlock issue, but offer comparable performance to the 380 Auto. Regardless of what is said though, there is a greater selection of ammo for the P3AT in 380 Auto.
Acraglassing P3AT extensions to a PF-9 magazine will not work. The OAL of the 9X19MM Luger Parabellum round is significantly different than the 380 Auto (9X17MM Corto) by almost 0.2" jams and mis-feeds would happen with the PF-9. I hope the info is helpful. Best Wishes:
The newest genration of Corbon DPX in 32 ACP should narrow that edge as the OAL should be long enough to negate the rimlock issue, but offer comparable performance to the 380 Auto.
If you are asking about the "fluff and buff", it's up to you. Some people do it and some don't. From my limited experience, there doesn't seem to be much difference in the ultimate performance of the pistol. I've had two 2 Generations P3AT's and the only thing I did with my first one was clean it and shoot it, rinse and repeat. I never had much trouble to speak of with it, aside from the rounds not completely chambering when I first loaded the pistol and racked the slide, but that eventually resolved as the result of using the gun. The second one, the one I currently own and carry, I did the complete Fluff and Buff, and I think it simply breaks the gun in just a little faster, not to mention a little less expensively than running four or five boxes of ammo through it to accomplish the same end product, a pistol you can depend on to function properly.
Either way, the pistol out of the box needs some breaking in before you want to carry it for self defense purposes, just as you would with the PF9.
I agree with you, and think the locking slide would be nice. Many of us have wished for a slide which would stay locked back after the last round.
Not positive about the build date on yours but mine is KQxxx and it was manufactured in March 2010 according to something I found, but I can't remember where I saw it.
Thanks for that.
I found some .380 at WalMart so I will pick that up in the morning and give it a test.
.380 is a bit tight right now here in Tucson, may have to order some from AIM.
Went to range this morning with P3AT.
I was very please with the accuracy at about 30' and the ability to control the pistol.
But I am having a failure to extract. The problem began at about 30 rounds and is intermittent. I am going to take the gun now and check into this issue.
THis pistol is a bargain, I am sure the extraction problem is not all that hard to solve. I am going to order one more mag and two finger rest base plates and that should do it.
Went to range this morning with P3AT.
I was very please with the accuracy at about 30' and the ability to control the pistol.
But I am having a failure to extract. The problem began at about 30 rounds and is intermittent. I am going to take the gun now and check into this issue.
THis pistol is a bargain, I am sure the extraction problem is not all that hard to solve. I am going to order one more mag and two finger rest base plates and that should do it.
On the failure to extract, try to tighten the allen screw on the right side of the pistol. that screw holds the extractor and the firing pin in place and as such they have a tendency to work loose. if it becomes loose, you'll start to experience failures to extract. try some blue loctite and tighten it up with a 2mm allen wrench. just be careful not to over tighten the screw. This should hopefully take care of your problems.
I went through the pistol and made sure there are no burrs to interfere with the extractor's function. Screw was tight from new.
I hooked the extractor slightly by removing material inside back from the surface which grabs the case. I fired 40 rounds just now and got one failure to extract, progress but not perfection.
I am going back into the shop to look at it again.
I am using WW white box ammo.
sparx
The extractor does not pull the fired case completely out of the chamber.
Update
So I polished the chamber with a wood dowel, patch and some JB Bore paste.
Try again tomorrow.
I hate burning up a bunch of ammo doing this but I need to break in the pistol regardless.
A better extractor would be one that has a slight hollow or radius in the center of the claw so the extractor claw would fully engage the rim. Since it is straight one end does not engage the rim of the case and thus does nothing.
That .380 has a very shallow rim indeed.
I have spare springs on hand because I have a PF9, (never had issues with it) and the extractor spring is identical. I compared the existing spring to the new ones and the tension is the same.
Tried firing again today still have intermittant extraction issues.
I fired both Win and Rem factory white box and it does not matter
Shipping gun back to Kel Tec
Lady stated: SIX TO EIGHT weeks turn around. :-?
This service indeed stinks, I don't think another Kel Tec is in line for me.
The pistol should work from new. I think the extractor for some reason is not getting under the rim of the case.
No longer my problem to solve.
Sparx
Tried firing again today still have intermittant extraction issues.
I fired both Win and Rem factory white box and it does not matter
Shipping gun back to Kel Tec
Lady stated: SIX TO EIGHT weeks turn around. :-?
This service indeed stinks, I don't think another Kel Tec is in line for me.
The pistol should work from new. I think the extractor for some reason is not getting under the rim of the case.
No longer my problem to solve.
Sparx
Don't blame you for feeling this way. It is frustrating to experience something like this from a brand new firearm. Just out of curiosity, did you consider speaking with the customer service folks and explain your problem and ask them to ship you another extractor, spring and retaining screw? I'll bet they would do this and it would be to you within a few days and you could try that before going to the trouble and heartache of waiting six to eight weeks for them to do something you sound very capable of doing yourself? Just a thought.
Re: Time to get a P3AT but... Update- Probs w/ pis
I have already on had springs and screws, compared the springs and found no differences. Same bend curve same tension.
I cannot image how a new extractor can solve the problem, but the gun is already shipped so it is up to Kel Tec to trouble shoot it.
Re: Time to get a P3AT but... Update- Probs w/ pis
My p3at came back to me today for insufficient postage, so I ordered a couple of extractors from KelTec and will try that first.
I got springs and screws already.
Maybe this will work out as you guys suggested I try an extractor.
sparx
Re: Time to get a P3AT but... Update- Probs w/ pis
also try wrapping some 600grit emery paper around a pencil and work it around in the chamber following by a good cleaning with a patch. This is not really "gunsmithing" and just "cleaning". Might help.
og
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