[Bubbas308AR]

S2K gen II 9mm, with the separate front sight retention nut/Thread protector for the technical info.

Here is my problem, I can only not quite make it through 50 rounds of fire, and the thread protector is either loose or unthreaded a few turns. I have stopped short of cranking on it with tools, so is that what I need to do, or should I get a crush washer or lock washer to retain the protector?

I am not overly interested in putting a muzzle device on, so that answers those person's with that answer to me.

Thanks, in advance.

 

[Brasky]

Use blue locktite and hand tighten as tight as you can get it

I know you aren't interested in muzzle devices, but I added a Kak micro flash can on mine and it directs sound forward making it seem quieter to the user. I went with this as mine is in a bug out bag and it helps my hearing in the event I do have to use the sub

 

[Bubbas308AR]

Heat loosens lock tight....that is what mechanics use to loosen permanent loctight....blue is not even close to permanent.
A couple of fast strings, and loctight is useless/gone.

 

[3wbdriver]

Thank you for the suggestion Brasky. Good luck Bubba.

 

[BlakeHanson]

Heat loosens lock tight....that is what mechanics use to loosen permanent loctight....blue is not even close to permanent.
A couple of fast strings, and loctight is useless/gone.

It may be the clearance between the threads. The blue loctite assumes that some substantial torque will be applied in order to do it's magic (and turn white).
For threads that fit loosely I use Loctite 518 (aka: flange sealant, aka: gasket eliminator, aka: 'cherry-jelly'). Good to 300°F. Excellent gap-filling capability.
It works well for locking up threaded metal-to-metal pipe fittings and other ones with excessive clearance. Especially ones that have to be "clocked" (aimed a specific direction) and you can't get another full turn on them

.
Coat the threads, screw it together and clean up the excess. Cures fully in 30 minutes to 2 hrs (depending on gap).

 

[Bubbas308AR]

Thanks BlakeHansen, I had considered red loctite, but still felt the heat resistance was too low for this application. I guess that if I am needing to turn my S2K into a 300° heater, I have bigger problems than the loctite loosening up.

Getting the RED...

 

[BlakeHanson]

Thanks BlakeHansen, I had considered red loctite, but still felt the heat resistance was too low for this application. I guess that if I am needing to turn my S2K into a 300° heater, I have bigger problems than the loctite loosening up.

Getting the RED...

518 'Cherry Jelly' is not to be confused with red Loctite 271 threadlocker, which has almost no gap-filling capability.
It's perfect for small screws.
(just clarifying)
You'll find the 518 very handy for lots of other things. No more teflon tape, and say goodbye to crumbly pipe-dope.

 

[Bubbas308AR]

:tu::tu::tu::tu:
Did not realize there was a difference.....I stand corrected, and on the lookout for some 518! Glad you said something, as i had red on hand......

 

[Brasky]

I used blue locktite on my sub 2000 and even after a few hundred rounds down the pipe I still had to use a wrench to remove the muzzle brake

 

[Bubbas308AR]

I am just used to the blue not holding up to any heat, as at work I have seen things loosen up with even a bit of heat induced from use of that equipment.

All the same, I picked up some red Permatex loctite (requires heat to remove) and I will see how this works out. I do have the blue at home, but wanted to step up. The store I was in did not have any Loctite brand, so I will try this, and if it doesn't work, I will get the next step up in performance.

 

[Bubbas308AR]

.....next step up.....518 Loctite per Blake Hansen.....forgot to include in previous post.

 

[850sub]

Someone told me they use little 0-rings that are heat resistant.
Also makes it easy to remove/install.

 

[Bubbas308AR]

Someone told me they use little 0-rings that are heat resistant.
Also makes it easy to remove/install.

I tried that once on an AK47, and that had less than desirable results. Maybe it would work different/better in this application......I do know where to get those particular o-rings, I may try that also if the thread lockers do not work.

I was trying to stabilze the brake on that AK, it was really wobbly and I was looking to force a tighter fit.

 

[850sub]

I thought AK's had a spring loaded pin to prevent walking out.

 

[Bubbas308AR]

It had the pin, but the tolerances were so sloppy between the barrel threads and brake threads that the brake would actually be wobbly to the touch when in place.

After trying an A2 style birdcage flash hider, I determined that the original slant brake was just that out of spec.

 

[No1Buck]

It had the pin, but the tolerances were so sloppy between the barrel threads and brake threads that the brake would actually be wobbly to the touch when in place.

I can't remember where, but I read that was an intentional design feature because the metal brake expands when it heats up. Not sure if it's true or not though.

 

[Bubbas308AR]

Yup, the other 5 I had were loose like you said, but this one was exceptional. ....brake was out of spec badly.

 

[Tnronin]

I use a black silicone o-ring with no issues and shooting strings of fire. The 9mm ain't gonna get as hot as the bigger caliber.

 

[Bubbas308AR]

I finally have time to get back here and reply....

I put some of the red thread locker on the threads, and tightened it down gòod, let it dry, and tested .

After putting a coupleof strings through and noticing no loosening or any movement, I am happy. An o-ring may work in the future, but this is working well enough.

For informational purposes, the barrel was just about too hot to touch twice.....so I called it good.