[CCWMan]

I just got a P3-AT. I'm afraid to take it apart and clean/lube it as I've read reports of people losing part #115 or having it spring across the room (?). Can you make any suggestions before I take my new gun apart? I'm not very mechanically inclined to begin with so any advice will be appreciated.

THANKS!

 

[TxCajun]

There is no "problem" with the ejector other than folks forgetting to remove it and it falling out - not flying off.  Part 115 is NOT spring loaded.  Simply remove the slide, then remove and set aside part 115.  When you reinstall it, a coat of grease will prevent it from falling out easily upon the next field stripping.  Mostly the "problem" involves folks forgetting about it. BTDT.  

 

[CCWMan]

P. S. The part I'm refering to is a little square button I believe is part of the extractor assembley. I've read of people having problems with that coming loose and glueing them back in. I'm also interested in any other tips on field stripping and cleaning my P3-AT. I don't have a vise so field stripping and cleaning my P11 is about the most I can manage.

THANKS!

 

[CCWMan]

TxCajun,

Thanks for the advice.

 

[gpr]

should you order any parts from kt, like mags, extensions, etc.....order a couple extractors...THEY WILL GET LOST....gpr

 

[RAT76]

should you order any parts from kt, like mags, extensions, etc.....order a couple extractors...THEY WILL GET LOST....gpr

Part 115 is an ejector, not an extractor. The extractor is bolted on. The ejector is the part that runs home to Florida.

 

[sprinter1]

I engrave my name and address on the Ejector, that way when it runs home to KT they can ship it back ;D

 

[jimwiggs]

CCW, the stories you read about the ejector (#115) are greatly exagerated.  Now that you are aware of it, I'm sure it will not be a problem. It's small, and when you reassemble you will probably forget about it laying on the table or the floor, you know "what's this thing"

You do need to be careful removing the recoil springs and guide rod.  THey are spring loaded and are held in position only by tension.  When you remove the slide, the guide rod and 2 recoil springs are inside the slide positioned against the lug on the barrel. Just be careful when you remove them or they will fly!!!

Remember, your P3 will operate without part 115, but not without the guide rod and springs.

Jim

 

[gpr]

sorry, senior moment...

 

[CCWMan]

Well, I took the ( for me ) brave step of dissassembeling, cleaning, and lubing my P3-At with Militec-1 (tm). I figured out how part #115 goes back in, it's the only way the side of the body looks right with the flush fit.
The problem is when I tried to slide the slide back on. It goes on as it's supposed to up to being about .25' short. I can't get it up far enough to re-inset the assembly pin. I had my mechanically inclined neighbor look at it who claims he's good with guns. I showed him the manual and also the photos from my Sigma manual, since it also uses the same kind of "Browning short recoil" action. He can't figure out what's wrong either. Unless someone here recognizes this and can tell me what to do it looks like my new gun is going back to FL for Spring break. I'll be enclosing a note asking them to tell me what I did wrong, I'll let you know what they say.

 

[regrip]

Make sure the guide rod is centered, and cock the hammer, this will help. sometimes the hammer will catch on the fireing pin if it is not in the cocked position.

 

[jimwiggs]

Slow down, you shouldn't have to send it back to KT for this.  Somehow you are not getting it assembled correctly.

Is the guide rod and 2 springs installed correct? The end of the guide rod should be in the hole at the end of the slide.  The other end of the guide rod (nail head end) should be in the notch of the barrel lug.

This should have the barrel hood locked in place in the ejection port of the slide.

The guide rod should be flush with the end of th slide, or maybe protuding 1/16 or so.

Slide should now install, push the slide back 1/8" or so to line up assembly pin

 

[jimwiggs]

Make sure the guide rod is centered, and cock the hammer, this will help. sometimes the hammer will catch on the fireing pin if it is not in the cocked position.

This is probably your problem, pull the hanmmer back and put that guy together

mmmm never tried installing the slide with the trigger having been pulled

 

[CCWMan]

jimwiggs,

Thank you so much for the advice. I took the slide off again and pull the hammer back manually. The slide went back on correctly and the gun seems to be working again.

Will type a range report when I can.

Thanks again!

 

[Ziggy]

jimwiggs,

Thank you so much for the advice. I took the slide off again and pull the hammer back manually. The slide went back on correctly and the gun seems to be working again.

Will type a range report when I can.

Thanks again!

And remember the lesson! It happened to me two or three times, while hubby and I looked at it in great confusion for way too long before we remembered the hammer. As for the little fally-outy-squarey-thingy , I always dissasemble over a spread out white towel, which reminds me to stick the darned part back in.

 

[RAT76]

You guys are putting WAY too much faith in part 115 staying where it lands when it falls out. Take my word for this, if you take your eyes off of it for even half a second it WILL be out the door & headed home.

 

[PshootR]

P. S. The part I'm referring to is a little square button I believe is part of the extractor assembly. I've read of people having problems with that coming loose and gluing them back in. I'm also interested in any other tips on field stripping and cleaning my P3-AT. I don't have a vise so field stripping and cleaning my P11 is about the most I can manage.

THANKS!

You don't need a vice to detail strip a P-11 or P-3AT. Just support the left side of the frame between two blocks of wood or something similar and use a punch or similar object to drive out the polymer frame pins from right to left after marking the left end of the pins so that you can replace them with the same orientation from left to right. To release the hammer spring catch hold the frame, with slide removed, in one hand and gently lift the hammer spring catch with a large flat screwdriver or something similar. Make sure the hammer of a P-3AT is in the fully forward position first. Do not over stretch the hammer spring or you'll get light strikes.

Did you know Sears sells a neat small portable vice that will clamp onto your kitchen counter?
Protect counter surface with several layers of cardboard or thin scraps of plywood. Protect both the top of the counter and the bottom where the clamp screw goes.

Handy and inexpensive home gunsmithing tools:

Good set of punches down to 1/16" in size.
Medium size brass hammer.
Good set of Allen wrenches.
Set of small files.
Fine and medium stones.
Medium to extra fine wet/dry sandpaper.
Needle nose pliers with wire cutter.
Small portable vice.

Anyone else feel free to copy and paste list and add on to it!

 

[msrdiver1]

I always work over a white towel or white paper towels. I do so in my computer hutch. Thus I'll hear and probably find a launched spring.

-Michael

 

[haugrdr]

;D "the little fally-outy-squarey-thingy" ;D That's EXACTLY what my wife called it!

 

[Packer]

  Your best bet is to train yourself to put this part in a parts tray IMMEDIATELY on disassembly. Forget about gluing it in or using heavy grease. That will just make you complacent. When it DOES fall out (and it WILL) being complacent just guarantees that it will escape.

  Sears has a good (Companion brand) PIN PUNCH SET FOR $4. A hard plastic cartridge rack from remington ammo makes a real nice hole vise for pushing out frame pins:

Packer.