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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a Gen 1 Sub 2K in 9MM and after over 1500 rounds it will still not cycle reliably. I have got it to work about 90% to 98% of the time but that doesn't quite cut it. The search didn't help me out. Sorry, I know this has probably been asked.

I have used numerous magazines with FTE's in every magazine. None of these magazines have a failure in a number of Glocks that I have tried them in.

Mostly 124 grain but I picked up some 147 grain to see if that helped. No joy. I've tried a few different brands and it didn't matter. Usually it was two FTE's per magazine except the G-18 then it was four FTE's per mag. Some hotter stuff got it up to about 98% reliable. I was thinking about going with +P but a guy blew up his Sub 2K at the range using Buffalo Bore.

I have tried lightly polishing the tube and bolt. Also I have tried a couple different lubes. TW25B is my favorite. Any idea's on what to try next would be greatly appreciated.
 

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just to clarify a few things here...

FTE as is failure to EXTRACT [case in chamber] or EJECT [stovepipe]? And is it random or only on the last round?

When you pulled out the offending brass, is there any unusual dings, scoring marks?


Its a combination of a couple things, usually something out of spec. If its failure to extract, the extractor could be worn, or dirty. There might be something wrong with the bolt, the problem as I understand it the bolts hanging up somewhere or otherwise impeding the cycle.


Going out on a limb here, have you had anyone else shoot the gun and see if the results can be replicated? The SUB2K by design makes it sensitive to the shooter stance, particularly if there is play in the stock to the shoulder. It's definitely not a pistol.
 

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Polish the bolt. Try the +P ammo, but not the +P+. I had to rack the slide a few hundred times until it became a little more tame, after 1500 rounds it really should be broken in. Then again, I took a Dremel to the ejection port and opened it as wide as I could. Then I bought a new bolt. Good luck but I think 100% is not going to happen with this gun.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
just to clarify a few things here...

FTE as is failure to EXTRACT [case in chamber] or EJECT [stovepipe]? And is it random or only on the last round?

When you pulled out the offending brass, is there any unusual dings, scoring marks?


Its a combination of a couple things, usually something out of spec. If its failure to extract, the extractor could be worn, or dirty. There might be something wrong with the bolt, the problem as I understand it the bolts hanging up somewhere or otherwise impeding the cycle.


Going out on a limb here, have you had anyone else shoot the gun and see if the results can be replicated? The SUB2K by design makes it sensitive to the shooter stance, particularly if there is play in the stock to the shoulder. It's definitely not a pistol.
Failure to eject. Sometimes a stovepipe but mostly the brass would be half way out when the bolt would close gaming the mouth of the brass into the ejection port cutting into the brass and then I would have to pry the brass off the frame.

Yes, it happens with other shooters, I am not "limp shouldering" the gun. I actually considered that, along with several other ideas. I'd pull my hair out if I wasn't already bald.
 

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I had the exact same problem. I noticed that the bolt had scarring and was difficult to remove and replace during field stripping. Turns out the holes in the bolt tube had some metal burrs that were scarring the bolt. I filed those holes to smooth that out. I also replaced the stock bolt with the heavy brass bolt. Also replaced the charging handle with the sumo heavy handle. These two changes added to the weight of the bolt assembly and slows down the action. After these changes I haven't had a single missfire or FTE, or FTF. A few thousand rounds without a miss.

T
 

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I occasionally have the last case fail to eject in my gen2 sw59-mag (it was born as a m&p) and tonight I tried ejecting the magazine before firing the last round. Sure enough I had no malfunctions. I wonder if the empty magazine is sort of catching that last case and is preventing it from making it out of the ejection port before the bolt slams home. It would be interesting to watch what is happening with a high speed camera.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
If your reloading, compare your light loads to your faster loads. I'll bet the lighter reloads give you the most FTE rounds.
I was concerned about the commercial loads not having enough power. The hand loads were made to the high end according to the book. That helped but I wouldn't want to go any hotter. I was thinking of trying Buffalo Bore but I saw an S2K blow up on that stuff at the range. I'm pushing it as far as I'm willing. Good idea though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I occasionally have the last case fail to eject in my gen2 sw59-mag (it was born as a m&p) and tonight I tried ejecting the magazine before firing the last round. Sure enough I had no malfunctions. I wonder if the empty magazine is sort of catching that last case and is preventing it from making it out of the ejection port before the bolt slams home. It would be interesting to watch what is happening with a high speed camera.
Thanks! Not the magazines and not the last round. Generally two rounds per magazine unless it is a fast load and then one per magazine. A dozen different magazines that work fine elsewhere. Usually somewhere in the middle I get a misfire but it could be the first or last.
 

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I occasionally have the last case fail to eject in my gen2 sw59-mag (it was born as a m&p) and tonight I tried ejecting the magazine before firing the last round. Sure enough I had no malfunctions. I wonder if the empty magazine is sort of catching that last case and is preventing it from making it out of the ejection port before the bolt slams home. It would be interesting to watch what is happening with a high speed camera.
Iirc, the 59 series mag springs may need to be a little stiffer to work reliably in a sub. Something about the cycling rate.
Edit: um that may have been issue with the P-11, not sure about the sub.

To the op, i would send it back if it didn't work with factory new ammo.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Iirc, the 59 series mag springs may need to be a little stiffer to work reliably in a sub. Something about the cycling rate.
Edit: um that may have been issue with the P-11, not sure about the sub.

To the op, i would send it back if it didn't work with factory new ammo.
Thanks! Some of the magazines have +10% springs.

I've loaned it to people at the range. Some have used their own magazines. I don't know what ammo they used.

I'm really resisting sending it back to the factory. It doesn't make sense. I had to send my KSG back before I even fired a round, it wouldn't cycle, but I'd like to sort this out myself.
 

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I just purchased a gen 2 and I had FTE issues as well. After every round, the casing got jammed in the port. I submitted a ticket today for repairs and I hope to hear back soon. I'm not willing to make any mods to get it to work properly. It should work straight from the factory.
 
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