[Retsof26]

I'm having same issue as the other guy, who's video I linked, and original post I linked. Help anyone?

http://www.thektog.org/forum/f85/sub-2k-trigger-question-265750/

https://youtu.be/8LTZdJ34zPk




I just picked one up yesterday, and mine is doing the same thing. It doesn't have as loud of a sound on the first part of the pull as the original posters, but it's basically the same issue. It travels back to a certain point where you think it's about to break but doesn't, feels really spungy at that point, then after that point if you continue to pull is when it actually breaks. It feels like it has 2 breaks. Only difference is it's not as audible as the original posters is in the video, but same exact trigger pull. It's not a continuous pull then break as it is with my other sub2k. So I know something is wrong. Any help? Did you send yours back to kel tec, if so what was the issue?

 

[H2OMAN]

Welcome to KTOG!

Here is a good read http://www.thektog.org/forum/f85/gen-ii-trigger-sucks-265894/

 

[Retsof26]

Thanks for the reply, but I can deal with the factory trigger, I have another sub2k with factory trigger and have done no modifications to and it works fine for me. The problem I'm having with my new one isn't a issue of just not liking kel tecs trigger or anything like that. IT feels like something is actually wrong with it, if you watch the video I linked you can see what I'm referring to. Any help would be appreciated

 

[H2OMAN]

Return it to KT.

 

[Retsof26]

I am really hoping to not have to send it to kel tech, I will if necessary though. Anyone have a idea what would cause this?

 

[H2OMAN]

Customer service from Kel-Tec is great, the only down side is that you will be without your S2K for about a month.

If you decide to crack it open & fix it yourself you owe it to yourself to upgrade the springs with those from MCARBO. These are mentioned in the link I provided in my first reply.

 

[Retsof26]

I'm with you, I would definitely upgrade the trigger if I decide to take it apart. Which I don't mind doing, only thing I'm worried about or need more advice on is if I take it apart and put in a new trigger and still have the same issue. What do I need to look for when I have it apart, besides the actual trigger itself. What else would be the culprit? Say it's not the trigger itself causing my issue, what would make it hang up or cause it to feel there are two Breaking points, the first which is obviously something wrong or catching, and second being the actual break/trigger pull.

If I pull the trigger past the first break/hang up/resistance point and let off the trigger before the actual trigger break where the gun fires. It does not catch that first hang up/break if you go to pull the trigger again until the trigger is reset. Hopefully that makes sense, kinda hard to explain.

 

[850sub]

Could it be a broken trigger axis pin? That has happened before. You have to open it up to find out. My first S2K has a terrible trigger. The other is just ok.

 

[Retsof26]

I was looking at it last night, looks like the sear is rubbing the safety release pin. Unless I'm completely wrong in my thinking, the sear shouldn't be rubbing the safety pin correct? Cause what I noticed is after it goes past the first area of resistance before the actual trigger breaks, if you let off the trigger. It won't let you engage the safety properly, the pin won't go all the way over to safe, it kind of seems to stop about half way through, unless you manipulate the trigger while putting it on safe, or actually reset the trigger. I got a flashlight and looked inside the best I could, and you can see the safety, and if you look though the magazine well you can see what I believe is the sear. I can see the sear rubbing the safety as I pull the trigger which I thinks causing my trigger issue. And I'm thinking it disengages the sear enough that's what prevents me from fully engaging the safety. I hope this makes sense to someone as I'm not a expert, but I like to learn and do my own work with firearms that i own. Any thoughts?

 

[850sub]

Well it is designed so that it can't be put on safe unless the hammer is cocked.

 

[Retsof26]

All that I mentioned above is with the hammer cocked, and not actually fired. Just pulling the trigger up to the point of resistance. as I pull the trigger i get to a point of resistance, and if looking down the Mag well with a flashlight while doing this, I can see the sear rubbing the safety pin, which moves the sear just a little. When you let off the trigger the sear doesn't fall back into place which I'm guessing blocks the safety from being engaged all the way. I don't think the sear should even be rubbing the safety pin, when pulling the trigger??? And safety is properly disengaged, and properly on fire during what I'm describing.

 

[Retsof26]

That's what I'm thinking anyways, that when pulling the trigger it should engage the trigger bar, and release the sear, then the hammer. without the sear rubbing anything besides obviously being in contact with the hammer.

 

[Retsof26]

OK just got off the phone with kel tec, and he confirmed that the sear should not be rubbing or making any contact with the safety pin. He said sounds like it needs to be sent in, but I talked to him about opening it up, and he said if I felt comfortable with it to go head and do so. Make sure the trigger bar is set properly, no spurs on the hammer, and check the springs. And if there is a part that needs replacing they will send it, or if I can't figure it out he said to email him and get it sent in at that point. So hopefully when I open it up I can find the problem, but if I'm going to open it up, I'm going to order mcarbo spring and trigger to go head and put on while I've got it open.

 

[DRT]

Mine had a similar issue until I did the following:

1). Polished the contact surfaces of both the sear and hammer using Flitz and cloth buffing wheel on dremel tool. Both surfaces were rough prior to polishing. I did not file or otherwise alter the sear geometry .

2). Installed mcarbo spring kit.

3). Installed mcarbo trigger.

4). Lubed all pins on which the various parts rotated

5). Lubed sear surfaces

It is very nice now. If I had to do it over again, the only step id do differently is use the PS trigger instead of the MCARBO trigger. The mcarbo is a bit short, and has sharper edges at the bottom that could be improved. The PS trigger looks better in both regards .

 

[Retsof26]

Thanks for the reply, wish I would have seen it sooner, I would have given a look at the other trigger. But I already ordered the mcarbo trigger and spring set earlier today. I'm going to wait for those to arrive before I take it apart and do anything.

 

[Retsof26]

Also ordered fixed barrel spacer and piston so it will work with my osprey 45. Will be happy when I get this thing fixed

 

[Retsof26]

Thanks for the replies everyone. I'm glad I didn't send it back to kel tech and did it myself. wanted to give a update. I opened it up, checked all contact Point's and moving parts for fit and finish. I polished contact points of sear and hammer, I installed mcarbo spring kit, and trigger. Light lube on moving parts. Put back together and the trigger feels 100% better, nice clean break. Haven't taken it to the range yet, but from what it was before and what it is now is a night and day difference. also fast shipping from Mcarbo, and there trigger is very nice and well made. So far I'm impressed with there products, but will update after I go to the range.

 

[H2OMAN]

I love it when a plan comes together.

 

[DRT]

Excellent job!

 

[catadjuster]

Restof what did you use to polish the sear and hammer? I have the same issue as you, I squeeze the trigger and get to a point of resistance, like the hammer is about to be engaged, then with a little more pressure it moves past that to another point of resistance which is where the hammer actually does engage. It's almost as if there is a burr or something on the internal mechanism. Mine is brand new right out of the box, never even fired yet.