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Interested in a 3d printable stock option?

  • Absolutely!

    Votes: 3 50.0%
  • I think the OEM stock works just fine.

    Votes: 3 50.0%
  • Yes, but I don't like the idea of it being 3d printed.

    Votes: 0 0.0%
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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all, new user on the forums, been lurking for the better part of a year. Bought my gen 2 9mm sub2000 a little over a year ago and fell in love. Put a bunch of mcarbo parts into it and turned it into my tacticool backpack gun. One thing that isn't available and always bothered me was the stock. It's too small and with the locking tab being right where the cheek weld should be, it makes an otherwise amazing gun much less enjoyable to shoot. I recently got into 3d printing and was inspired by another user on the site who made a 3d printed LOP stock similar to an A2. To my knowledge that sort of thing never became regularly available to people do to some hiccups he ran into. So I have been working for a week or so on a new design overall to replace both the locking mechanism and stock to make the sub2000 even better. I really just wanna gauge everyone's interest in something like that. I'm currently on iteration 2 of the stock and iteration 5 of the locking system. When I get it finished I'd like it to fit on any stock sub2k buffer tube and maintain the same LOP system. It won't have anything on top to impede your cheek weld and the stock will allow more surface area in your shoulder pocket. I've also incorporated a passive retention magazine slot into the stock for rapid deployment of a 17 round glock Pmag (others may fit but I haven't tested them yet). The best part: I wanna provide all the files for free to the community so that everyone can print it if they desire or have it printed from any of the on demand services. Thanks for your time and stay tuned in the coming days for pic drops!
 

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Welcome to the forum!

Interesting idea, but I've had no issues with my Gen1 stock in the 18 years I've owned it.

Post some pics so we can see how the stock will attach to the receiver or stock tube.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Welcome to the forum!

Interesting idea, but I've had no issues with my Gen1 stock in the 18 years I've owned it.

Are you talking about having to add all the internal parts and the barrel to it?
I was talking just the actual stock and bolt retainer on the rear side. I'm just in the testing phase for a stock I designed to replace the OEM gen 2 stock. It's all gonna be plug and play, no tools required.
 

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I was talking just the actual stock and bolt retainer on the rear side. I'm just in the testing phase for a stock I designed to replace the OEM gen 2 stock. It's all gonna be plug and play, no tools required.
Thanks! It finally dawned on me what you were talking about. I updated my first post to ask how you intend to attach the 3D stock to the receiver, or if it will attach to the factory stock tube?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks! It finally dawned on me what you were talking about. I updated my first post to ask how you intend to attach the 3D stock to the receiver, or if it will attach to the factory stock tube?
I intend to attach it to the factory tube, I don't want anyone to have to permanently modify their factory sub2k in any way. Hoping it'll be as user friendly as possible. I'm waiting on the 2nd version to finish printing right now and I'll post pics tonight when I get it attached.
 

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I intend to attach it to the factory tube, I don't want anyone to have to permanently modify their factory sub2k in any way. Hoping it'll be as user friendly as possible. I'm waiting on the 2nd version to finish printing right now and I'll post pics tonight when I get it attached.
Sounds like a great idea, now that I understand more about it. Looking forward to those pics.
 

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Forgive my question and I'm not belittling your project by any means, but in what world is a proper cheek weld all the way back over the actual buttstock itself? Mine is what I was trained by the army to do and is all the way forward on the tube with my nose rolled in on the back edge of the forward lock collar. On an AR my nose would be touching the charging handle This places your eye about 5-7" behind the peep sight for proper eye relief. Could you post a picture of yours please? This is what I would look like if I was better looking and female.
54596
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Forgive my question and I'm not belittling your project by any means, but in what world is a proper cheek weld all the way back over the actual buttstock itself? Mine is what I was trained by the army to do and is all the way forward on the tube with my nose rolled in on the back edge of the forward lock collar. On an AR my nose would be touching the charging handle This places your eye about 5-7" behind the peep sight for proper eye relief. Could you post a picture of yours please? This is what I would look like if I was better looking and female. View attachment 54596
I agree with you and much prefer a closer cheek weld to the rear sight, but with the sub2k (and probably more so due to my fat face) the factory sights become much more difficult and uncomfortable to properly align when I move forward on the tube, so I tend to shift back a hair when shooting the sub2k. When I do that though, I'm stabbing my cheek with the locking tab. I just wanted to make the stock more comfortable to acquire proper sight alignment without needing a red dot and still maintaining the ability to fold the sub2k. I'm hoping my pics tonight will clarify! Also, there is nothing to forgive, the only stupid question is the one un-asked.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I made it very close to the same size as an ar15 A2 stock below the section that houses the front sight when it's folded. I might try to shorten it an inch so you can still get a 17 round Pmag flush in there but reduce the overall silhouette so it's not quite so large. But seats into the shoulder pocket much more comfortably now for me. Haven't fired rounds with it yet (damn you corona ammo prices) but I've aggressively slammed the bolt home 50 or so times and jerked the stock into my shoulder as hard as I could to try to break the damn thing and it has no obvious signs of cracking on either the stock or the new bolt retainer I designed. I'll try to release the files tomorrow afternoon.
 
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