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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First effort to remove front sight resulted in damage to the hinge and a return to the factory. Four attempts later, using vice with barrel firmly gripped between two pieces of wood, heat gun set at 1000 degrees F directly impinging the nut for 5 minutes, have failed to even budge the offending nut. I have reviewed and implemented all of the recommendations suggested in the entries of this blog dealing with removal of the front sight. And I have failed. If no other recommendations are forth coming I will be compelled to swallow my pride and take it to a gunsmith. I'll probably have to turn in my Man card as well.

I sent the barrel to Kel-Tec in January 2017. However, what I got back had a different sight on it. An attached note told me it was the "New" front sight design. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
 

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...I sent the barrel to Kel-Tec in January 2017. However, what I got back had a different sight on it. An attached note told me it was the "New" front sight design. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Welcome to the KTOG, Redo73 :D

The "New" front sight that you got is an upgrade from the original design; that's all good. Many of the members here are happy with it. The "original" FS needed a few changes ~ thankfully, KelTec made the required modifications. It'll work better if you decide to add a can to your kit.
 

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Hi Redo. I'm basically in the same boat in not having much luck in getting this nut off. My new Sub2k with the updated front sight system came with the sight rotated off center. Im not sure how you are supposed to vice this thing in so that it doesn't move. My latest attempt today involved using a 2.5" vice just acquired and as soon as I tried to turn the nut the gun rotates in the vice. I did try and turn it a bit once the base of the sight post contacted the vice but up to about 15 lb pounds I felt no movement and didn't want to press my luck!
 

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Clamp the top portion of the front sight housing in a vise with two soft wood blocks. Use a quality 6 point socket to remove the thread protector and lock nut. No barrel scratches or hinge stress using this method.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Sarkus,
I'll let you know how it goes with tjps's recommendation. I'm not to concerned about over torquing the nut since we are trying to get it off. I have read that the threads should not be torqued more than 25 lbs. Due to friction we would probably need 27 to 29 lbs to get the nut off. I will keep you informed.

Thanks,
 

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I already tried it and it worked for me. I used some thin wood I had, along the lines of stirring stick thickness, and they held well enough to get the nut to release. I was using a torque wrench and it gave way just over 20 for me. The sight post immediately rolled over, so there was no thread lock holding it in place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Sarkus
The recommendation from tjps worked beautifully, the nut came right off. I then heated up with sight at 1000 degrees F for 2 minutes and it unscrewed with no problems.

thanks again tjps
 
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