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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As the title implies, I think I've wrecked the gas block on my RDB. I've had the dreaded extractor axis pin issue, and I first got a new pin, and then last week a replacement bolt. In originally trying to diagnose the issue (before I realized it was the pin) I had messed around with the gas settings, thinking it was an ammo issue or something.

I took the gun to the range this past Saturday and figured after monkeying with the gas settings I should re-set it. Well I started messing with the gas block and for the life of me I could not get the bolt to lock back on an empty magazine. As I looked closer, I realized the roll pin in front of the gas knob had partially backed out and the gas knob was cocked at an angle. Apparently this must have happened earlier, and I hadn't noticed, and as I adjusted the knob it got cross threaded and stripped.

I took it apart tonight, cleaned all the gas system parts up, and put it back together. The knob is wobbly and will easily become lopsided, even with the pin driven back in. I just wanted to share this story with everyone so you can all be careful. And I'm curious, has this happened to anyone else?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Attached is a pic, I think. You can see how crooked the knob is. And this is after I took it apart and cleaned it all up and fixed the roll pin. I put all my tools away, otherwise I'd get a pic of the threads, but I can tell you they looked worn, if not outright stripped.
 

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First I've seen anything like that here. Had you disassembled the gas block/adjust knob prior and maybe reassembled incorrectly? Unless the tolerances were really loose and gas pressure managed to force it cockeyed (which lead to it then being striped when adjusting) I'm having a hard time understanding how this happened.

I say that being familiar with, and having disassembled, that portion of the firearm (though the manual doesn't cover it and I think doesn't recommend it) without any issues myself.

For what it is worth, your roll pin currently looks "partially backed out" in the photo you provided. Mine was installed flush on the top side and sticking out on the bottom side (and is depicted that way in the manual). I'm not really sure it would make a difference though as ultimately its role (pun intended?!) is just to prevent the gas adjust from being completely unscrewed off.

Send her off to Kel-Tec regardless. Bummer!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Lefty, I'd never previously disassembled the gas block. When I received the gun I took it to the range and first thing I did was test it with a variety of ammo to make sure the bolt would lock back on an empty mag. I think I ended up adding 1 click, maybe 2, of extra gas. Bear with me because some of this is rehash of the original post, but I'll fill in a few details and my theory on what I screwed up.

One other thing I should add is my problems started back around Christmas. I'd been away from Thanksgiving until Christmas for work, and have since been supporting 3 week out / 1 week home rotations for customer on-site support. April is the the first time I've been home for more than a week or two since Thanksgiving, so my troubleshooting sessions have been spaced out.

When I was having problems early on that were eventually traced back to the extractor axis pin I had messed with it thinking it was an ammo issue as I was using a new brand of ammo. What I think happened is that, in my frustration, I somehow backed the knob all the way off so it was no longer engaging the threads. Yes, I know, if it wasn't locking back I should have been tightening to add more gas, not loosening to use less. But I was frustrated and probably just spun it the wrong way.

So on Saturday I had the new bolt in, and I had remembered I'd been monkeying with the gas settings, so I think I took a few more clicks out of it since I'd thought I'd tightened it. So if I hadn't backed it off previously, I probably did it this time. And, really I think that's all there is to it. After disassembling and inspecting last night, those threads are pretty fine, and I think I just ham fisted it while I was at the range and got the threads crossed. Im going to start a ticket with Keltec and tell them what happened and see what it's going to cost to repair since this is obviously my fault.

Also, as to the roll pin, I honestly don't remember how it was set stock but you may very well be correct in that it needs to be driven down to be flush on top. I'm also wondering if it would be worth putting a thin washer or something in there so I can't back it off again... :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
If you look in the RDB manual, the parts I boogered up are 151 and 156. I'm not sure how 156 is fit to the gun, if it's something that's press fit or something I can drive in/out myself with a brass hammer or something. I'm going to open a ticket with Keltec and I'll let you all know what happens.
 

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For what it is worth, your roll pin currently looks "partially backed out" in the photo you provided. Mine was installed flush on the top side and sticking out on the bottom side (and is depicted that way in the manual).
just wanted to confirm, mine is exactly as Lefty2Guns described: flush at the top, protruding at the bottom.

also, you may want to contact support. some things changed. i asked erika from kel tec whether i should lock tite the optic rail in. she was on vacation, so i lock tited it anyway. she responded a week later with 'no, do not loctite'. which sucks, because now i have locktite on my threads.
 

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just wanted to confirm, mine is exactly as Lefty2Guns described: flush at the top, protruding at the bottom.

also, you may want to contact support. some things changed. i asked erika from kel tec whether i should lock tite the optic rail in. she was on vacation, so i lock tited it anyway. she responded a week later with 'no, do not loctite'. which sucks, because now i have locktite on my threads.
ericka maybe in the dark on that one. a kel-tec employee advised loctiting the rail and how to properly do so in one of the threads here. otherwise, as you're alluding to, it comes loose and i'm not going to keep tightening it down everytime it does. i used red loctite but wasn't worried as i can torch it off. obviously, blue seems risk free.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Last night I was feeling adventurous so I decided to see if I could remove the gas head (part 156). Turns out it's just a press fit and I was able to drive it out relatively easily with my roll pin punch hammer. One thing that I was curious about was how to index the part so it lines up with the gas hole coming up from the bore. Turns out the detent spring pocket is thru drilled and there's a pin that goes in the back of it. And the pin has a little nub the sticks out that indexes with a small notch cut in the lip of the gas head that goes up against the gas block. The pin is part 157 in the diagram.

I started a new ticket last night with Keltec, sent them the photos of the off kilter gas knob and the stripped gas head (see below) and explained to them what happened and how I think I boogered it up. Its all my fault so I asked if I could just purchase the replacement parts and how I go about doing that. Will let you all know what I hear back as soon as I do, and what the cost is. I can't imagine it would be more than about $50.
 

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Now the question I have is, is this gas valve assembly something I can disassemble easily for cleaning?
I want to get my fav lube in there.
 

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Now the question I have is, is this gas valve assembly something I can disassemble easily for cleaning?
I want to get my fav lube in there.
It's not hard to disassemble, but it is not covered in the manual and not recommended as far as I can gather. There also aren't really any "my fav lube" worthy moving parts in there.

You'd also be undoing the factory set gas setting (not a huge deal though, it's easy enough to readjust the gas setting).

If still interested... Knock that pin all the way through/out. Unscrew the gas adjust knob completely. Careful as the there is a spring loaded detent (which engages the gas adjust knob for each "click") that can kind of shoot out... and from what I can remember that's about it.
 

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she responded a week later with 'no, do not loctite'. QUOTE]

Can you stake?
the screws for the rail? i'm not sure i could, to be honest. after looking into it, i'm fairly sure i'd botch something; the reason being that this would be my first attempt and i have no experience.
for what it's worth, the blue loctite has held up after 300+ rounds. nothing is loose, everything is holding together.
 
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