[Delmarksman]

Well went through 125 rounds.
100 fiocchi FMJ HP,
no failures
But
20 rounds of Speer GDHP= 3 FTE's
5 CorBon (not DPX) 1 FTE

A couple observations;

I notice that the rim of the Brass cased Fiocchi is slightly thicker than either of the plated
CB or the Speer.

Looking at the FTE-ed casings,
I notice that the extractor is slipping off the rim.
Looking at the mark left on the casing, by the extractor, it is apparent that only a corner of the extractor is grabbing the rim.

Assumption; the slightly thicker rim of the brass case is just enough "more meat" for the corner to work.

Observation;
The extractor lip is cut parallel with the face of the breech.

Question;
Since the case is round and not square,
shouldn't the lower edge be wider than the top to ensure proper engagement of the lip into the rim?

They are on every gun that I've ever worked on if they weren't round.

I believe this is (one reason) why the cases are showing a corner slip off mark as opposed a mark the size of the extractor.
Showing partial vs. full engagement of the extractor.

Observation;
When I remove the slide,
(Problem there, I'll get back to in a second)
I put a casing under the extractor rim to check engagement, and I notice that, when the casing is pushed all the way back to the breechface there is a large gap between the front edge of the rim and the back edge of the extractor.

OK, I broke out the books the feeler gauges and the calipers.

The Hornady 4th edition reloading manual lists the rim at 0.045". 2 other manuals I looked at agree.

The rim of several Speer casing measure right at
0.0445" avg. Can't get any closer than that.

The Fiocchi casing rim's are measuring 0.049" avg.

I measure the "extractor gap" (the dimension between the breechface and the extractor and come up with 0.066".

I believe this is compounding the extraction issue.


Next;
I tried to remove the slide... no go...
Fortunately this was easy to figure out.
The recoil spring guide had slipped off it's lip. Quickly fixed, but annoying.

Observation; (noticed before but now is it becoming a problem)
I am developing "Flat Spots" on the head of the RSG. Each time I have taken the gun apart I have noticed a new flat spot.

Has anyone else experienced this?

Don't know how long it had been off (clean the gun every outing) but it didn't seem to impare the function, just made it a pain to remove the slide. >

Right now I am thinking that I need a new extractor, RSG and maybe a set of springs.

Dumb question but, do you think I can get KT to send them to me without having to send them the gun?

With as many as they have to repair...
I figure that it's just as easy for me to replace the parts as it is them and they won't have to keep my gun for a month.

 

[TxCajun]

Yes.  Call the service department and describe your issues.  They will ship parts to you and usually do not charge for them.  Just be convincing that the gun is not working properly and those are the parts you need to get it going.  If they think you are just trying to get some spare parts, they may want to charge for them.  Generally, they are happy to send out parts for free.  

 

[zeke]

Call KT and talk to service they will absoutly send you the parts for free. Make sure you speak to service and not parts though. They usually ship them out USPS so it will take a few days.

Happened to have the Lyman reloading book beside me it also list rim as .045

Does your extractor have a sharp pointed end or somewhat rounded?

 

[JFB]

I was going to referance some old discussions but I noticed ALL my grahics have vanished. The website i had them at is also gone :-/

well there are no graphics so ill try to add what I've seen and discussed in past

....
Question;
Since the case is round and not square,
shouldn't the lower edge be wider than the top to ensure proper engagement of the lip into the rim?

when the round is fed from the magazine, the tip has to slide into the case rebate
....Observation;
...there is a large gap between the front edge of the rim and the back edge of the extractor.
...I measure the "extractor gap" (the dimension between the breechface and the extractor and come up with 0.066".

The extractor should slide back and forth abouth 0.020". I got the same gap as you. the gap is 0.046 to 0.066. that is just enough to let a rim start if at its tightest. the extended at 0.066 allows the 0.020" gap at the breach face. This allows the case mouth to hit solid against the step in the chamber.
...Observation;
...I am developing "Flat Spots" on the head of the RSG. Each time I have taken the gun apart I have noticed a new flat spot.

I put a scribe line so I put the rod back the same each time so that the point of contact between the rod and the barrel is worn and no longer dragging

....

 

[TxCajun]

Delmarksman: There are some extractor pics in this thread:

http://www.ktog.org/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=2504;action=display;num=1145152844#lastmsg

 

[Packer]

KT service: 1-800-515-9983

The front of your barrel has a very sharp lip just before the guide rod socket. Everytime you install your springs, this sharp edge cuts the guide rod head.

The fix is to file a little bevel on that edge to dull it--then you won't get flat spots anymore.

Packer.

 

[Delmarksman]

Delmarksman:  There are some extractor pics in this thread:

http://www.ktog.org/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=2504;action=display;num=1145152844#lastmsg

Thanks for the link.

Looking at this pic, it shows the extractor having a steep angle on the front edge.
Mine is square. This is what I was trying to desrcibe above.

2PP, I will look for that next time I break it down and thanks for the ph#.

 

[JFB]

...Mine is square....

???

 

[Packer]

CHANGING P3AT OR PF9 EXTRACTOR
First order new extractor, spring and new hardened button head screw. Buy some blue loctite.

WITHOUT MESSING WITH FIRING PIN:

1. Dry fire.
2. Leave hammer down. Do not move slide.
3. Remove button head screw. Heat to loosen if necessary.
4. Remove old spring and extractor.
5. Replace extractor and spring.
6. Apply a wee bit of loctite on threads just under head of screw.
7. If slide has not been moved: Install screw and tighten.

WITH FIRING PIN:

1. Remove slide.
2. Fold a towel and rest the back of slide on it.
3. Remove button head, spring and extractor.
4. Lift slide and shake out firing pin and spring. If spring won't come out, push through breechface with a toothpick.
5. Clean burrs out of firing pin channel with aptly sized drill bit. (by hand with in and out motion.
6. Finish cleaning with a (tobacco) pipe cleaner.
7. Spray a little silicone spray in channel.
8. Install new spring and FP.
9. Install extractor and spring.
10 Apply a little blue loctite on threads just under head of screw.
11. Insert screw and tighten just a few threads.
12. Align notch of firing pin so it is below screw.
13. Hold firing pin in and gently tighten screw.
14. Don't finish tightening untill you make sure firing pin can easily move in and out.
15. Finish tightening BH screw.

Packer.

 

[peaceful99]

Mine is square.

If you look at the extractor from the outside of the slide it will appear to be square. Pull off the slide, remove the recoil springs and barrel then look at the extractor from the bottom of the slide. You will see what should be the pointy end of the extractor that engages the rim of the cartridge. The view in the images is looking from the muzzle end. To see it from that perspective, you would need to remove the extractor. Follow Packers instructions for removing the extractor.