[riverkeeper]

2nd Gen sn HZE--
Didn't lube or fnb it first....me bad.
1 failure to fire was  a lite strike problably due to a short trigger recovery during rapid fire.  The round fired next time thru.

After 100 rnds lubed and a light buff then found that it's much more difficult to pull the slide now and the slide will often not close completely on a round unless really sling-shotted. I've ejected at least 50 rounds (without firing) since the problem.

Haven't fired it since and prolly won't til this is sorted out.

Since it showed up after I lubed it the first time I am humbly assuming the problem is me.

rk -- who needs a clue.

Will get a 2mm allen tomorow for THE BOLT.

 

[TucsonMTB]

After 100 rnds lubed and a light buff then found that it's much more difficult to pull the slide now and the slide will often not close completely on a round unless really sling-shotted.

Yeah, probably most of us have had a lubrication learning experience. I know I did. :-[

Check out the link below. Grease on the slide rails and hammer rail is more important than I realized at first. :

http://www.goldenloki.com/guns/keltec/care2.htm

TucsonMTB . . . whose P-3AT's are really smooth now ;D

 

[JFB]

I would take slide back off, clean it throughly, and look for very small dings and burrs.
If it was slick before the clean and lube, you might have contaimaneted the lube with some small particles of grit.

the most common would be
1) frame rail opposite the extractor- file or scrape the raised metal back below the original planes of the rails
2) the slide where the recess is for the trigger disconnect cam, especially any raised that goes toward inside- again file or scrape, just to remove proud metal.
3) the frame channel where the end of the recoil spring guide fits.
4) the frame rails at the muzzle end where the slide first starts when assembling.
5) the center rib of the slide that cocks the hammer durring recoil should be shiny polished and free of any gouges.

I think those are the major areas

shooting it in verses F&B seems to work well with the latter production guns, just need to look for areas that need attention.

as a guide, the assembled gun should hand cycle smooth even when dry.  It will then be slick when properly lubed.

Or even better, just shoot it. Then clean and lube again.

 

[TxCajun]

2nd Gen sn HZE--
Haven't fired it since and prolly won't til this is sorted out.

On the contrary, shoot it!. Clean, lube and shoot some more. This is likely just a breakin issue. Manually racking the slide does not equal the force of shooting it. Let us know if you have any issues (I see none yet) after your next range trip.

 

[riverkeeper]

Thanks for the useful respopnses....after 200 rounds it's  good and smoother .... tho the slide usually but does not always closes on a slow easy rack.  It always closes on a sling shot rack.

It needed a more careful cleaning, buffing in specially important places, a little grinding, removed a little nick and another 100 rounds.  Did a modest ramp grind to reduce smileys .. need to do a little more.

My Smith J frame and 44's are more fun to shoot but only got outa the house 15% or so for other trips .. this little guy goes along about 90%.

There will be ergonomic grip mod questions in another post. Thanks.

 

[rjhauser]

you have to sling shot a rack on these, do not "ride the slide".

otherwise, it will not close right.

 

[riverkeeper]

Rack it fast .. got it.

Cleaned it last night after shooting and discovered that the corner oposite ejector again has a raised splinter and the slide frame in that area is dinged again ... neither is as bad as after the first 100 tho.  Buffed the splinter and its corner down and smoothed the rail again.

The rail there still has smoothed pits (dings) and my question is whether to barely grind (dremel with rouge) the rail to totally remove the pits.

I'd hate to mess up the slide.

 

[Guest]

riverkeeper.  that ding is very normal on kt. the brass is hitting it.  keep it filed down, and eventually it will stop. If u are talking about the rail on the frame, tha tis aluminum, I would leave that alone. In time with proper lub, etc, the rail and slide will finally melt together and smooth things out. Shooting is the best theraphy for ur kt.

 

[rjhauser]

agreed with jocko there, just keep the slide smooth, and everything will just work itself out.

The slide and frame tend to "meld" together over time.

 

[riverkeeper]

Here's a clarification--

The splinter forms on a corner inside the grip-frame opposite side from the Ejector Pt#115 on what I suppose is the frame, Pt 210.  Loki's Reliability page... scroll down to Grip & Frame ... just to the right of the upper part of the box with  *7 on the corner is where the splinters have formed.

http://www.goldenloki.com/guns/keltec/prep.htm

The ding is on the SLIDE next to where the splinters form.  As few as  50 rounds .. even after smoothed prior to shooting. Each time I shoot a smaller spinter forms but the slide dings remain and are re-roughened.

Plan to continue to shoot it more and buff anything that sticks its head up. After 200 with no hiccups with 3 kinds of ammo, I'm carrying it and will shoot 50 per week for a while.

 

[zeke]

I think you are talking about this area. This is normal wear and will stop once it gets worn to a certain point.

 

[Guest]

I think that ding on the slide that u are talking about is caused by the trigger bar hitting the slide upon ejection. That trigger bar rides (sorta) in that channeled area of the slide. That will produce dings/slivers etc but will also stop in a short time also. File those sliver down, polish them smooth, lub and shoot. Ur weapon is ok. The trigger bar is much harder than the slide in that area, therefore the slide is showing the wear and not the trigger bar. Neither of my kt's do that anymore, but all did at one time. "shoot it like u stole it"

 

[Guest]

nice photo zeke, u hit the ol nail right on the ol head ;D

 

[zeke]

I actually stole the photo from another thread, the thread also talked about the trigger bar ding's on the slide. I'll have to go back and find it so I can give proper credit to the photographer.

 

[rjhauser]

do what i do, don't worry about it, and it will go away or you will forget about it after a few cleanings.

;D

 

[zeke]

here is the thread I stole the pic from

http://www.ktog.org/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=104;action=display;num=1157660884;start=6#6

 

[riverkeeper]

That's it Zeke, thanks....this is a great site.

Pic 3 My rail damage is far less severe ... like about 3 or 4 of the little dings/dents near the top.

Pic 2 again my damage is less severe.

My trigger and trigger bar were also considerably more smooth than the pics out of the box and after initial shooting .... mirror like now.

Everything's been cleaned and buffed a few times since and manual racking is easier and smoother.

I was raised German with more than a little OC in the family so that a metal tool with apparent signs of dysfunction is a little disconcerting....I feel better now.