[wheelguy]

Learned something about this pistol that may be helpful to others. It is a brand new Generation 2 with a chrome slide, Bersa finger extension, and Hogue grip. I disassembled the gun before taking it to the range. Inspected, cleaned, oiled/greased, and re-assembled with minimal difficulty (for a first timer, anyhow   ).

At the range, I went through 200 rounds - all high quality ammo of various types (gold dot, hornady, corbon HP, corbon powr ball, and cheap target practice ammo). My objective was to get past the 200 round breakin period. Saw lots of medium sized smilies, and 5 FTEs (that may be attributed to limp wristing). No FTFs! Overall, much better performance than I had expected after reading the forums  

Got home, and attempted to remove the slide. Since I had done this before going to the range, I knew what to expect. To my surprize, it would only move about 1/2 inch. Was hitting something hard as I tried to slide it off. Obviously a metal against metal sound.

Being the curious sort that I am, I thought of trying something "inventive" - I pulled the trigger. Boy, that really did it - slide was locked hard - would not budge at all backward or forward  :-[. Eventually, I noticed that the hammer had locked itself against the firing pin.  The top of the hammer (as viewed from the rear of the slide) was touching the rear bottom of the firing pin. In order to unlock it, I used a screwdriver to push the firing pin into the frame with one hand; while using the other hand to push the slide toward the screwdriver. Whew - back to the original problem again - slide would only move about 1/2 inch.

The next thing I tried worked. I used a small plastic hammer to pound the slide off of the frame. I noticed that when I hit it a little bit, it made a little bit of forward progress. I hit it more, and it continued to move off until it was free.  Once I got the slide off, I could see that the recoil spring rod had developed a bur where it makes contact with the chamber. Apparently, running 200 high power rounds through the gun had hammered that contact point to such an extent that it dammaged the rod.

I called KT service and asked them to send me a new rod - no hassle, a great experience! While I wait for the rod to arrive, I filed off the burr, cleaned, lubed, and back in action again.

So, my question is - do I have a manufacturing flaw in my barrel that is causing the rod to fail prematurely, or has anyone else seen this kind of dammage to the rod?

 

[JFB]

Re: Slide will not come off after first time at ra

... the recoil spring rod had developed a bur where it makes contact with the chamber....anyone else seen this kind of dammage to the rod?

Not sure where you mean by chamber?

Do you mean where it fits into the frame, just in front of the trigger?
or, where it fits under the barrel, just in front of the lug, WHEN the slide is removed.

In either case,
the head of the rod will develop a flat spot where the barrel will slide accross the reoil rod's head during recoil. A lot of people see that. I just make sure I put mine back the same as not to wear a new spot.

The head of the rod will also dig a little groove in the aluminum frame where it fits as the rod tilts up and down durring recoil. However, that ussually locks the slide so it doesnt move the first 1/8". Some times just whacking the gun barrel in the plam of hand will dislodge the head from that groove so a lot pulled aluminum is avoided when hammering of the slide and barrel

If it is some place else, please let us know

Also, on the frame rails, accross from the ejector, there is a spot that gets battered by cases and will stop the slide about 1/4" when removing

 

[wheelguy]

Re: Slide will not come off after first time at ra

Thank you very much for the "what type of wear to expect" info. I had not seen such info in the posts I have read so far - very helpful stuff I will turn my guide rod so that the flat spot points towards the barrel - and will try to learn to use the correct terminology for various parts of this wonderful weapon :-[.

 

[TucsonMTB]

Re: Slide . . . after first time at range.

Hey Wheelguy!

Welcome to KTOG.  I enjoyed your helpful message and am confident you will continue to follow the thoughtful advice in your own signature tagline.  8)

Let me add one word to the knowledge JFB shared with you.  Grease!

At least in my experience, using grease in the areas contacted by head of your guide rod will help reduce the rate of the normal wear you are observing.

TucsonMTB . . . who also greases the rails and the area of the slide that rides over the hammer - sparingly

 

[wyo-man]

Re: Slide will not come off after first time at ra

Welcome. Thanks for providing your experiences.

wyo-man

 

[wheelguy]

Re: Slide will not come off after first time at ra

You guys are great - I didn't even expect to get a response for a couple of days  . Sounds like various types of wear on the guid rod is considered to be normal, and is not a manufacturing flaw. As others have said - this is a gun for carry, not target practice - so minimal use is a good idea. Guess I will do some velocity measurements while waiting for the armalaser to arrive. I'll post the results, of course - haven't seen much user measured data on any of the P3AT forums, so it could be useful to someone.

 

[TxCajun]

Re: Slide will not come off after first time at ra

Speaking of grease:
http://www.goldenloki.com/guns/keltec/care2.htm

Dealing with wear points:
http://www.goldenloki.com/guns/keltec/prep.htm

http://www.goldenloki.com/guns/keltec/prep2.ht
m

As others have said - this is a gun for carry, not target practice - so minimal use is a good idea.

Agreed! Once it is broken in and you have learned to shoot it well, I'd just shoot a few mags each time you hit the range to verify function and stay proficient.