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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
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I just want to share this if you were having similar problems that I was having with needing to slam it back hard to avoid a double feed and that last 1/4 inch. I haven't gone live with it yet, hopefully tomorrow I can get out.

I ordered some Orange followers and when installing them I took a Dremel tool with a fine wire brush and hit all the areas I am pointing at in the photos to smooth all them out and then lightly oiled them. When I tried it out with 7+7 and I was surprised that I didn't have to slam it back to cycle. I just racked it with a smooth light to moderate charges and the shells flew out. I did this several times and I can say the action on it is defiantly is much smoother and the followers helped.
I'll evaluate the real test tomorrow when I go live. Anyways for you short strokers out there I hope this helps.
 

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There's some good info on how to "fluff and buff" the KSG on this forum.
With minimal work you can smooth up the KSG until it operates as smoothly as any pump gun around.

When/if I can get to it, I'll attempt to write up an enhanced article on how to smooth the KSG, based on a gunsmiths perspective.
I worked over my KSG and it operates with none of the hesitation at the last 1/4 inch at either end of the slide movement.
It feeds 100% and without any of the slamming open and shut so many people think is needed for a pump shotgun in general and the KSG in particular.

Until I can do a write up, I'd caution that when we talk about "polishing" gun parts, we DON'T mean "like a mirror".
What's needed is that machined parts be SMOOTH enough not to catch or drag on each other.
That doesn't require removing ALL machine marks, just to remove any ridges that can cause excessive friction or catching.

Attempting to polish parts to a mirror shine is totally unnecessary and can ruin parts.
So, the key is "Smooth, not shiny".
Many people are surprised at just how little work is really needed to smooth up even the KSG.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
So, the key is "Smooth, not shiny".
Many people are surprised at just how little work is really needed to smooth up even the KSG.
That's pretty much how I approached it. I didn't want to do to much, just knock off tiny imperfections or abrasions on the surface of the metal parts to butter them up. Anything that rubbed or slid on something I hit it. Also, good luck with the write up on the "fluff and Buff" that would be outstanding.
 

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Another excellent way to smooth up the KSG or most other firearms is to use a good grease on key parts.
Unlike oils, grease stays put, wont run off, dry out, evaporate, separate, or sling off.

Ordinary hardware, farm, and Walmart stores sell Lithium grease with is as good as the high dollar greases sold in small containers in gun stores.
In fact, most any water and heat resistant grease works well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Another excellent way to smooth up the KSG or most other firearms is to use a good grease on key parts.
Taking out my stock followers they would not drop out. I swung the gun like a baseball bat and they still wouldn't come out. I had to make a hook out of a paper clip to pull them out. I'm no gunsmith or anything but the amount of grease that was on my followers I think made them sticky in the tubes rather than slippery. I ran a few patches down the tubes just to clean out any gunk and installed the new ones. I think this is probably a part that you don't want to grease up.
Auto part
 

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No, you shouldn't use grease in a shotgun mag tube.
With plastic followers a mag tube shouldn't need much of any lubrication since plastic is self-lubricating.

The best treatment for a shotgun tube is some sort of dry lubricant that's rated as a rust preventer.
The magazine tube and spring can use a little lube to prevent wearing the spring, but a good dry lube will do the job.
The main thing is to prevent the tube and spring from rusting.

You'd be shocked at how badly fouled and even rusty shotgun magazine tubes get.
It seems most people either don't know they need to be cleaned and serviced or just don't bother.

One way to clean and lube the KSG tubes is to use a shotgun rod to push the followers up the tube then insert a nail or pin through the forward tube slots to hold the followers forward.
Then you can use a loop type shotgun jag and lint-free patches to clean the tube with a solvent, dry, then apply a dry lube.
Brownell's sell special large bronze brushes for cleaning shotgun magazine tubes.
This will clean out debris and lint left by patches.
Before the lube dries pump the followers up and down a few times to coat the spring.

Brownell's sell a couple of good dry lubes.
Note that graphite is not a good lube for this use.
 

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I concur with dfariswheel that polishing the parts he indicated does a fine job on that last 1/4". I feel no need to slam, just a firm consistent pull on the rack handle, all the way back and all the way forward.
One thing I wanted to add in the way of polishing is the inner surface of the 'saddle' part (to the right of his finger in pic 3) that the 2 pointed actuator fingers ride up on at the end of the slide action. That would be a fine place, I think, for a thicker grease lube and I will give that a try.
I used graphite powder in the mag tubes, rubbing it in as best as I could and treating my orange followers as well. It didn't occur to me to treat the mag springs for rust, that's a good idea and Ill do it upon next takedown. Thanks!
 

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I did just what you did and my KSG (purchased Aug 2017) is now smooth as silk. It was stiff on the last 1/4"and it had the common FTE problem a couple times per outing before, and I learned to disassemble it while sitting on my tail gate frowning. At least part of the problem was my ammo choice that first day but I think that the chamber was the number one issue since any ammo works now. I didn't have anything fancy for the chamber polish. I wrapped some worn out emery cloth onto a tube brush and turned it by hand maybe 2-3 dozen revolutions. My plan was to try it and give a 2nd application if needed. I only polished the last inch that the brass contacts. I also lightly polished the ramps on the shell release levers. Again, just enough to smooth it a little more. While I did also smooth the other areas I believe that the chamber and ramps made the big difference on my gun.

It occurred to me yesterday while I was out with it that it did not need to be racked hard. I slow racked it a few times and it worked every time with little force. I think that the 15 minutes spent on these things is an accelerated break in. I am happy with the KSG at this point point but would have preferred just a little more attention to these areas at the factory.

Thanks for posting the photo tutorial.
 

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When/if I can get to it, I'll attempt to write up an enhanced article on how to smooth the KSG, based on a gunsmiths perspective.
The "fluff and Buff" guide in FAQ is pretty darn good...

My KSG Was done by Sean at Kel-Tec and it is FLAWLESS!
 
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