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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
How do you keep your subs in your car?
Looking for ideas. Would love to have a thick racquet case or something like that.

I was keeping it in a camelbak ~24L backapack in the water bladder sleeve since it was separate and zipper closed.. but that pack is a bit too big overall to do what I want.
 

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A 17" generic laptop case works just fine for me.
 
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Do you really need a blast can on a 16" PCC? (serious question and no judgement)

The reason I ask, and I'm not you so I don't know how sensitive to blast you are, I can understand one on a bottleneck cartridge firing firearm. But on a 9mm or even .40 with a "long" barrel? Personally I want as little stuff on my firearm as I can get away with. Everything needs to be of value or it stays off. I'm ruthless when it comes to evaluating usefulness of accessories.

That having been written, my HD firearm is a 10" 300BLK and it does wear an over the barrel blast can. Before that I used a 5.56 and it too had a can on it. Neither of those firearms (when used for HD) were supposed to be light or small. For me to put a can on a sub2k it would need to bring alot of value along with it to ruin the mass and handling of the gun.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Do you really need a blast can on a 16" PCC? (serious question and no judgement)

The reason I ask, and I'm not you so I don't know how sensitive to blast you are, I can understand one on a bottleneck cartridge firing firearm. But on a 9mm or even .40 with a "long" barrel? Personally I want as little stuff on my firearm as I can get away with. Everything needs to be of value or it stays off. I'm ruthless when it comes to evaluating usefulness of accessories.

That having been written, my HD firearm is a 10" 300BLK and it does wear an over the barrel blast can. Before that I used a 5.56 and it too had a can on it. Neither of those firearms (when used for HD) were supposed to be light or small. For me to put a can on a sub2k it would need to bring alot of value along with it to ruin the mass and handling of the gun.
I have one good ear and horrible tinnitus in both.. that seems to get worse every year.
It started 10ish years ago and 3-4 ish years ago I was shooting a 12" ar with some hot 5.56 and even with plugs and muffs doubled up I got some more permanent damage.

Should I need to 'blast' in my house or something of the sort.. I'd prefer all the help I can get.
It's really not that heavy on the front of the gun.. I've seen people with scopes on the red lion hand guards it's way lighter than that.. I'm using the mini 3 prong and blast shield from BreekArms.. which has the added benefit of being threaded in 13/16-16 on the outside.

I'm in the same boat. I don't have anything I don't need on my sub 2k. Even kept the stock rear sight and just bored out the hole so it was useable.
Put a BCM AFG on it.. Did the mcarbo trigger kit and that's about it. I even considered putting the aluminum posts back in but figured I could survive the 2 or whatever ozs for the durability. That aluminum felt cheap.
I did paint the plastics, and put clear over the stainless since the receiver started to rust after an outing in the rain. That probably added a little weight.
Oh, and a paraclip loop. I couldn't wiggle a piece of paracord in there and make it work..

Hell, I bought titanium screws for my RDB and run a 9 oz leupold freedom 1.5-4 on it, Probably gonna work towards reducing more weight on it in the future. possibly use a drill press and put some 'pits' or holes in the sight rail between the numbered sections. I'd love a titanium gas block/ hand guard mount, and that barrel mount piece in the back.
 

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Yeah, I'd have a blast can on my sub2k too.

I jokingly tell folks that one can always tell when old time shooters are having a conversation because 1/2 of it consists of "Huh?" and "What was that?". By the time we knew better the damage was already done to our ears. We can never get back what we've lost.

I just looked up your blast shield and now I understand why it doesn't affect the weight. They might call it a blast shield, but its effect in that direction is minimal, the name is marketing hype. It's just not big enough to do much and if it was it would require a tax stamp from ATF. It would best be called a blast forwarder, and frankly (I own a few, but not yours) after trying them I removed them. I do keep one in the safe just in case I need to lighten up the HD gun seen far below or need to remove the can for load development until I know the bullets are stable and won't hit the internals. That one blast forwarder that I keep handy (it's a Hera linear comp, but despite the name it's a blast forwarder since linear comps comp nothing) must be used to keep from destroying the carbon fiber handguard and convey the blast out from under the handguard.

OK, you may already know what's coming but I'll write it anyway for others. For a blast can to work, and they do exist, they can't be small. A regular can, aka silencer, suppressor, muffler, has a place for the blast to be contained, it's a pressure vessel, so is a blast can. But if blast cans are actually called a blast can I've never seen that term in use by the industry. What happens for them to work, and this applies to normal cans as well, is that the blast gets trapped in a chamber or in baffles and after the bullet passes through the can the blast escapes not as blast all at once with a pressure wave, but slower so that it doesn't hurt (physical pain and damage) the ear. But again, these aren't tiny things. That's why I wrote what I did about screwing up the mass of the firearm. Linked to below is one such can in 5.56. I have it's mate for 300BLK and of course it's in .30. The model is an Amtac CQB which is no longer seen on their website. Sound attenuation isn't great and it's not hearing safe, but it's job is to remove the pressure wave known as blast. Since the threads are hidden somewhere in the middle of the can it shortens the overall length to something manageable as compared to a "normal" can. Mine makes my barrel 4" longer than it would be without it in place, but the can itself is (from memory) 10" long. Most of the length is a place to temporarily hold the blast before the slower release to atmosphere. Not all states allow the ownership of any cans, including blast cans, but if yours does it will work far better for your ears. The CQB won't fit on the sub2k though, you'd need one that isn't an over the barrel design. Then you'd also be back where I stepped in to suggest the increase in mass and length. BUT... you could install a 3 prong (HK) adapter on the muzzle and keep the can unattached. It only takes literally a second to attach the can if needed.


Pictured below is the handgun (yes, handgun) I assembled specifically for HD and specifically for the Amtac CQB. The barrel is 10.3" but the overall length of the barrel w/can is approx' 14" with the 10" can in place. If you look through the slots in the handguard you can see where the can is under the handguard. That's how large a blast can needs to be in order for it to work effectively. But again, there is a way to get a can on your sub2k if you can live with the second it'll take to put in in place from the storage position. I have no pictures of my sub2k with one in place but it makes the rifle substantially longer. One could search to find one that is fat and short which would work fine with the sights on the sub2k.


FWIW, you've gone much further in weight reduction than I have by paying attention to the little things. Mine has existed for years with a MRD and since it doesn't get used very much anymore it gets no more development. But I used it for years in competition and it did all I wanted it to. The 300BLK... the goal was never light weight and it shows it. It weighs (from memory) over 8# maybe close to 9# today.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
sure does feel like a 'well ackchyually' post. Even if it wasn't intended, it came off very 'I think I know more than you'.
If it stops the blast from going out the side. it's a blast shield.. or a blast can.. Pig cans made that terminology.. like calling an adjustable wrench a crecent wrench. If it looks like a can, and acts like a can.. it's a can...

My ears are extra sensitive. I've also used a little bit of everything on the market at this point in my over 30 years of shooting for one reason or another. The.. variety of stuff I have access too and have used or tested over the years isn't small.
I've used variations of the breek setup on various stuff, including a 12" and 7" AR, RDB, 16"AR, 12" grendel, even rigged it up on a glock17. I do notice the difference when blast is being send forwards. The grendel now sports a Griffin linear comp with a taper mount... and it makes a big ol' difference to my ears and head after a day at the farm. Gotta remember that 16" barrel on the sub is still as close to my head as a 12" ar even if the poopy 9mm doesn't boom as hard and barrel helps to deal with it. Indoor training with it is a long day...
I don't tend to waste my time with spec sheet wars. IDC how something is supposed to work, I care how it DOES work. Before the ammo hike my group and I did a LOT of shooting... cases of ammo a month worth. Not just 30 mins at the indoor range but a full day every week of just training one way or another. Usually set up at ~75 yards in a valley.. so lots of echo. Plus run n guns.

As far as 'home defense' I'm gonna use the cheapest, most effective thing I can use for that. The police are gonna take it and I won't get it back. Sub is perfect for that. So are some other cheap, effective options.
Hell, Hi points in the hood probably have a higher self defense body count than KT or any fancy gun. I'd probably have put a .45 carbine in a bullpup kit with a suppressor if there was some way to make the trigger not trash...
The last thing I'm gonna do is loose a tax stamp to some ****bag trying to take my TV.. That setup you have is slick, I've always been a fan of overbarrel stuff or just suppressed barrels in general. There was a NZ company that made a suppressed barrel for the papoose back in the day but I never could manage to get one. Still, I'd never use that in a 'rule of law' situation where the police would take it if it was used..

None of this is on topic though... FWIW...
 

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How do you keep your subs in your car?
I have not received mine yet, but it's supposed to be here on Tuesday, but I'd recommend this for keeping your Sub in while in your vehicle.

From what I have read this is the one to get, it is 'supposedly' sought after, and made well too. It comes in 3 colors (I got the Coyote Tan) and from all that I have read you can't find these anywhere, I just lucked out and checked, and there it was.

I was sure it was here that I read about it and everyone wanted one, maybe it was somewhere else.
Anyway, give it a shot, I sure couldn't find it anywhere online for over a month until I did another search and lo and behold, I found it! :)

 

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Well, that's about right, as soon as I recommend a place I get an e-mail from Opticsplanet and they NOW say that it will be 1-3 months shipping on that case.
So, my advice, NEVER-EVER buy anything from them, they are notorious for that, although they have never got me this bad.

They have a drop-down message that shows you how long it will be before they ship it, it showed (at my time of purchase) it would be 7-10 days, which is not good, but I thought I'd get over it.
I get this e-mail this morning saying the 1-3 months, now, I am not stupid, as soon as I bought it I went back and checked the drop-down and it still said 7-10 days, so I thought, well, they actually have that in stock. But, nope...
(This only pertains to the Coyote color, they still [supposedly] have the other two colors)

They are as dishonest as they come, they don't really steal from you, but their business practices are not honest. To me, deceiving is just as bad as lying...
I am sure that if you searched this site that it would come up more than once, and I am sure that online they have a bad reputation. I have heard of them doing that, but the times that I have done business with them they did not pull this stunt on me, well, not too bad, I do remember a little something once.

This case I wanted was $39.00, they have FREE shipping over $50.00 or in that area, so that meant to get free shipping I needed to buy something else, just like they intended. So I bought 1 box of 9mm ($17.00) which brought the total to around $62.00 after taxes.
Now, I fully expect them to (try to) send the ammo without free shipping, now that could even be construed as illegal, (like a bait and switch) I don't know. In their e-mail they do not specify that at all, which, they should.
More than likely I will have to call them this morning to cancel the entire thing.

Anyway, please disregard my earlier recommendation of them, not unless you are in no hurry, and by that, I mean, no hurry this year.
 

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I prefer a briefcase with the 3-digit combination lock rather than key. The briefcase can ride on the passenger seat unlocked with your S2K inside. If you are stopped by a cop, it's quick and easy to reach over, latch the briefcase shut, and lock it with a quick, unseen spin of the dials. When the officer looks inside, there's a locked briefcase on the seat. As a white collar worker wearing a tie (or not) with a sports jacket or suit on me or hanging on the hook in the back seat (warmer weather), there's nothing unusual to pique the cop's curiosity.
Finally, my favorite briefcase has a divider separating the interior into 2 unequal spaces. The larger space is set up with foam for the S2K and 2 spare magazines. The smaller space is empty or used for papers, a magazine to read, etc. The divider has holders for 2 pens as well as "pockets" for a paper pad, etc. So even if you open it, it looks like a briefcase with your work junk inside.
A decent quality briefcase treated well will last for many years. My current one (leather covered) has been in service over 15 years. I was an early adopter and find my Gen 1 S2K still fills the bill, especially after I added a small rail (offset on the right) to the forend for a Burris FastFire III..
 
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