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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My “new to me” KS7 is having a serious failure to extract issue. Upon further review I found that the rim of the shell is getting caught in the barrel recess for the locking lug causing the action stop mid stroke.
Has anyone else run across this?
Is there a fix that be done without sending it in?
 

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It's hard to diagnose something like this without being able to see the gun.
If a gun has to be operated in a certain way or with a certain amount of force, the gun is defective.
A properly working pump shotgun, including the Kel-Tec's can be operated as slow and gently as you want and should operate properly, as long as you fully operate the action.

I really can't visualize why the shell rim is catching on the locking lug area.
First, try a different brand of shells. For a new gun test, buy high quality ammo to insure it's not the shells.
Check the locking lug area and the rear of the chamber and barrel for any burring or excessively sharp edges.
Check the bolt face and extractor for any burring or damage, check for proper spring tension of the extractor.
Check the "tines" of the shell lifter/ejectors for burrs or bends to insure they're not allowing a shell to be positioned to far up in the receiver or causing the shell to catch.

If this is a new gun, you're far better off sending it back under warranty instead of altering something you're not 100% certain is the problem. Change something and you void the warranty.
This will only cost you a few weeks of time since they pay shipping both ways, and will also give the gun an extra close inspection as a warranty return and will replace anything that's not perfect.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
That’s the best pic I could get. After looking deeper into the issue I’ve found that the front of the elevator is not moving all the way up. I took off the butt pad to see if it was. If I push the rear of the elevator all the way down with my finger the gun will cycle properly. Now I just have to figure out to remedy this.

I’m not the original owner (it isn’t under warranty anymore) so I’d rather not incur the expense of shipping it to and from Kel Tec.
 

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I'm not clear on how the shell liter can not be going up far enough, and to allow the rim to catch on the barrel extension.
The lifter should be up when the shell is being extracted and unless the lifter has been altered it shouldn't cause any catching.

Remove the trigger assembly so you can see the bolt and lifter operation clearly, put the rear pin back in to retain the butt assembly.
When the bolt moves back and forth, the lifter tines should be pressed open and closed slightly, and should be pressed against the top of the receiver by the bolt.
The lifter should not move down until the front face of the bolt is even with the two ejector notches on the bottom of the lifter tines.

If the lifter tines are not firmly against the upper receiver, check them to insure they haven't been altered or somehow bent out of shape.
Remove the butt assembly and insure that the lifter is free to move up and down in the butt portion without any interference.
IF A NON-FACTORY BUTT PAD HAS BEEN INSTALLED OR THE PAD HAS NOT BEEN INSTALLED CORRECTLY IT MAY INTERFERE WITH THE LIFTER.
This has been a problem in the past with non-factory butt pads. Some pads needed to be trimmed to clear the lifter and allow proper operation.

Look for any signs a previous owner has altered, ground on, or bent the lifter in any area.

Sending the gun back to Kel-Tec shouldn't be that expensive since it's not a pistol and shipping charges should be less.
Unless it's changed, you can mail a long gun to a FFL Dealer for repair through the US Post Office cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Okay I’ve got the elevator seemingly working properly. Now instead of a failure to extract 6 out 7 I’m down to 2 or 3 out of every magazine. However, now it seems that the next round in the magazine is my culprit. The action will free up if I push that round further into the mag tube. This KS7 has more gremlins than a movie with Gizmo in it.🤦🏻‍♂️
 

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Since this is a previously owned gun it may be a case of "God only knows what the previous owner did to it".

The shell release assembly is actually fairly simple, but timing is, as in all shotguns, critical.
If the shell releases have been tampered with or altered, shell release can be off enough to give these problems.

At this point you're probably looking at the only viable options are to send the gun to Kel-Tec and have them diagnose and correct any problems, OR pass a problem gun on to another owner with the full disclosure that the gun has problems that will need repair.

As an aid to trouble shooting the shell release timing, remove the butt assembly, bolt, barrel, and trigger assembly.
This will leave only the magazine and receiver.
Put the mag spring and follower back in and install the mag cap.
Put a towel in the open rear of the receiver to prevent shells from being ejected out the rear.
With the receiver upside down on your lap, you can put two shells in the magazine and operate the action SLOWLY to actually see how the shells are timed and ejected out of the tube.

The Kel-Tec shell releases operation only functions on the last 1/2 inch of movement of the action to the rear, and on the last 1/2 inch to the front. Everything in between is a non-function movement.
Here's a link to the KS7 owner's manual..........


So, pull the handle slowly to the rear until the rear of the pump handle just contacts the right shell release, part 331.
As the handle is pulled fully to the rear, the shell release should be pressed down and a shell should be ejected into the receiver.
As the handle is moved to the front, the left shell release part 309 should be pulled forward and allow the next shell to move to the rear of the magazine a fraction of an inch to the next to feed position.

Hopefully you can ID what's causing the miss feeding.
WARNING: I strongly recommend NOT disassembling the shell stop system.
It looks simple but it's a real bear to work with.
What appears to be two small black metal bushings on the pins in the assembly are actually hard black plastic that are a VERY tight press-fit on the pins.
They do not come out easily and it's very, very difficult to get the bushings back on the pins and get the operating spring and stops back in position.
I was a watchmaker-gunsmith and I found it very difficult to do without whatever assembly jigs Kel-Tech has to do assembly.

In other words, get it apart and you may not get it back together again.
 

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I did a huge write up addressing this very issue!!

 
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