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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 30mm 1-6.5 scope I want to mount on my RFB. Right now it's in an SPR mount for an AR, which works, but I see no need to use a nice cantilever mount when there's plenty of rail space on the RFB.

Any suggestions?
 

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I just received an SWFA 1-4X24 illuminated mil quad scope kit that came with a cantilevered mount for the RDB I'm picking up tomorrow.

http://swfa.com/SWFA-SS-1-4x24-Tactical-30mm-Riflescope-Kit-P85632.aspx

The quality looks very good. The scope and the mount look bomb proof. Probably A bomb proof. Maybe H bomb proof. I've read good reports. This is my first cantilever mount and so far I'm impressed. The SSALT mount is available separately. I used HOT10 for their 10% off summer sale discount code and it worked as late as last week.

I started to get a more expensive quick release lever mount like the one ronmar linked to, but decided that I'd try no backup sights and the most reliable scope and mount I could find. YMMV.

If you want to use rings, I've had very good luck with the quick release rings from Leupold. My 50 BMG disassembled the focus tube inside a pricey gold ring Leupold scope after 16 rounds and it was bouncing off the glass on the inside of the scope, but I replaced the scope with a much less expensive Sightron scope in the aluminum Leupold QR rings and they held zero for over 200 rounds.

I hate buying rings. I'm not exactly math challenged, but some manufacturers specify the distance between the top of the rail and the bottom of the scope tube, and others measure to the center of the scope tube, and it's very difficult to determine the proper height of the rings I need. I often get it right on the third mail ordered rings. Grrrrrr. And of course, the terms high, medium, low, etc. are nowhere close to standard between manufacturers, or even between different lines of rings from the same manufacturer.

I do try to match the rings to the rail. For an aluminum Picatinny rail, I'll try to use aluminum rings. For a heavy scope and a lot of recoil, I'll use the beefy "tactical" rings with six screws per ring. For a steel rail, I try to use steel rings.

I just scoped a Savage 338 Lapua Magnum last night and used the Burris XTR signature rings. I like the Signature rings because they have polymer inserts that don't mar the scope tube. The XTR rings came with several sets of inserts that allowed me to effectively add 20 MOA to the rail for long distance shooting. I think different combinations can add 0-40 MOA.
 

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Here's the direct link to the SSALT mount Liberty referenced above:

http://swfa.com/SWFA-SSALT-30mm-Scope-Mount-P58814.aspx

I have three, two on RFB's, and one on a bolt gun. At $60, it is less expensive than most quality scope rings. It's also one of the lightest mounts of this type around. Even though cantilevered, it adds stiffness to the rail. provides the same height above rail as a standard AR mount, which is perfect on an RFB. Can't comment on RDB.

I use these because I'm always switching back and forth between day and night scopes, and sometimes remove the scope for cleaning. If you will rarely remove the scope, proper height rings can work fine, and be a few ounces lighter.
 

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...which is perfect on an RFB. Can't comment on RDB.
I'll let you know. :cool:

On the plus side, it's not as difficult to buy rings or a cantilevered mount for one of the low magnification 24mm objective scopes, because there's no concern over the objective bell clearing the rail, or barrel, or forend, or whatever. That pretty much requires 3D parametric CAD modeling to be sure. With a 1-6X24 scope, you should be able to get the rings or mount that put the center line where your eye wants it to be.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I need to figure out whether there's a problem with the scope or with the gun. I got around an 8" group at 100yd, off a rest, slow fire. Hirtenberger ammo which most people say is decent (not match ammo but not bad either). I didn't think to bring anything else, mostly just wanted to get it broken in and I'll clean it up/lube it and go out again with more options. I'm not a great shot but I do better than that with M193 clones in an AR with irons so it isn't just me. Had someone else shoot it with similar results too.

Maybe I'll have to pick up some match ammo just to be sure.

I realized Aero Precision makes a non-cantilever version of the mount I have and the price is reasonable so I'll likely go with that. I don't plan on running irons.
 

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I'm finally picking up my RDB tomorrow, so I can't give you my own range report, but most people are reporting 1.5 to 2 MOA for the RDB. 8 MOA sounds like a scope or mount problem to me, too. A bit disappointing for your initial range trip, but you can cross "Break in the RDB" from your To Do list, so there is that. :)
 

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There is some preference in this area, but I like a cantilever mount on my three bullpups and all my AR's. I do use more a conventional straight-up mount on my bolt rifle. On my RFB I use a Burris PEPR mount with a Burris 3x9 mounted. There is a small section of pic rail on the top half mount that I have a Burris Fastfire III red dot mounted to. It provides a little of everything for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Is there anything specific I should check? Scope to mount, mount to rail, rail to whatever it is that it bolts to.

I'll bring another scope next time too.

I will say it has an odd muzzle device on it now (for California compliance) but I can't imagine it being THAT bad.

I also think I need to move the scope forward a bit, but didn't remember that I had the right tools with me.



I have another similar scope in a PEPR QD mount as well, and a red dot that I'll try... I should be better than 8MOA with any of them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Is there anywhere specific I should look? Is there anything that could cause rail to move vs barrel other than the bolts that hold the rail onto whatever it's mounted to? I didn't think to check that before going shooting (figured everything factory was ok).
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I can't legally remove the muzzle device in the state of California (overall length has to be 30" minimum). It's a few hours to get to Nevada, I might have to sometime.
 

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Depending on how much it's worth to you, I think a gunsmith can legally check the accuracy without the muzzle device. But something on the muzzle that doesn't agree with the rifle can toss shots all over the place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
They can only remove it if they have an Assault Weapons Permit, and even then I'm told DOJ only wants them to use said permit to work on LE or already registered AWs (they can't buy a gun from out of state and modify it to no longer be an AW to sell to normal people).

This muzzle device is VERY long too, by a significant amount more than it needs to be (OAL is around 31.75" right now). I might try adding a butt pad spacer, taking the whole thing apart, replacing the muzzle device (OAL isn't a problem when taken apart) with something else, and then testing... not sure what I'd put on though, it still needs to be fairly long even if I put all 3 spacers in.
 

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Conclusion: the gun just REALLY hates Hirtenberger, or there's something wrong with the ammo.

2.5" 10rd groups using TulAmmo.
On that TulAmmo, have you seen ronmar's assessment about how/why steel cased ammo may actually shoot better in some cases than brass ammo? It's pretty interesting.
 
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