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Here is a picture of my lovely P-16c with it's Nikon P-16 3X32 scope. I am a complete newb with this rifle. As an example, I had to ask for help because I wasn't pulling the charging handle back far enough to load a round so I couldn't get it to shoot. Pretty embarrassing but I got it going and haven't had any problems with it since.

I don't want to add much to this rifle as I don't want it to put on weight. It's lightness is one of its primary appeals. But I soon found out my old eyes are not going to work well with something that shoots farther than 50 yd which is why I added the scope. But as I said, I am a newb and have never installed a scope before. My plan is to suspend a string at about 10 yd, make sure the rifle is vertical to the world, then sight the string to adjust the rotation of the scope to get the vertical line in the scope vertical to the world. Then, I will then sight the rifle at 200 yd, the distance Nikon says the scopes cross hairs are set to. The bottom hash mark in the scope is set to 600 yd. This is an interesting idea but if I want to hit anything at 600 yd I will need a more powerful scope. If anyone has any tips or has a better or easier way to get my scope sighted correctly I would appreciate any insight you can offer.

I included the picture of my rife case as it tickles me to think I can carry this gun around in an old racket ball racket bag.
 

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A-Noid said:
I included the picture of my rife case as it tickles me to think I can carry this gun around in an old racket ball racket bag.
don't be, heres my SU-16. Carries 60 rounds just fine. I don't intend to get caught up in firefights I don't want. just enough ammo to get me home.

since you can't look down the barrel as with a bolt action, buy a .223 boresight laser and chamber that. Once you locktite [go blue, not red] down the scope, adjust till the laser is dead center on the cross hairs at whatever distance past 50 yds you want to shoot at. The SU-16 platform was never meant to be a tack driver, and never will. Accuracy is dependent on ammo, shooting conditions, and how hot the barrel is. You can forget about what you know from watching movies where the bullets hit dead center of the bullseye everytime. An experienced or learned user can adjust it close, but most of the time you will hit a "group" that when connected by a line resembles an odd geometric figure.

What I would recommend is to build a jig [or better yet buy a gun vice] so the rifle is held completely stiff and bolted to the bench. Then once you are able to align [collimate for us astronomy guys] the laser to the cross hairs, fire off 2-3 rounds or so and adjust a click or so at a time [1 click = 1/4MOA at 100 yards. Most rifle scopes have 1/4 MOA adjustments, meaning that one click will move the bullet impact a quarter of an inch at 100 yards. 16 clicks to move the bullet impact the same distance at 25 yards, etc]

give it some time, try out different distances once you have it zeroed, you'll learn the pattern. ;)
 

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