Community for Kel-Tec Shooters banner
1 - 20 of 31 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,827 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Every time I install one of these, I swear I won't do another one. Mark Series Rugers are very accurate and very dependable with high speed ammo, but they are a PITA to work on, especially when you get one that the barrel to frame fit is off. I just finished one like that, and the guy let his buddy shoot it. The buddy immediately brought me his. Its even worse. Not only does it take a mallet to get it off, it takes about 20 whacks to get it seated where the mainspring pin will go back through the receiver. I've got several customers who bring me theirs to clean because of the problems reassembling them even when the barrels fit right. Fortunately they will shoot a couple thousand rounds of good ammo w/o cleaning. They have discovered that for what I charge to clean one that it is far cheaper to shoot clean quality ammo.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,182 Posts
Heh I clean mine 90% of the time without taking it apart. Qtips in the chamber/magwell area, swap the barrel, and let the rest of it ride.

They are plenty accurate out of the box but the trigger is cheap. Putting a good trigger on them makes them a quality entry level target gun. I think I took nearly 1/4 inch of pre & post travel out of the trigger by getting rid of the stock one and putting in a good one.

Once broken in they are just fine with low velocity target ammo. Why anyone would want to put the really good stuff like eley in a cheap pistol is beyond me, but you can sometimes find quality low velocity ammo from cheaper brands. I haven't looked for any in a while, still breaking in my new build and seeing what it likes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,827 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
If you're paying someone else to tear it down for a deep clean, it makes sense to shoot clean ammo. By good, I was referring to clean, like Mini-Mag or comparable, and not cheap dirty ammo like some of the bulk stuff.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,876 Posts
Is there any trick to make the upper removal/reinstallation on the frame easier? Our new 22/45 Lite I can do it with just my hands (barely, it's a struggle, I have to press the muzzle down on a desktop to reinstall, but I can do it). But my 30+ year old Mark II steel pistol there's no way to do it by hand currently - I always have to use a wooden mallet to both remove and reinstall the barrel. It's been like that since day one when I bought it decades ago (i.e., it's not dirty, just excessively tight). My friend has a near identical Mark II, same age, and his barrel basically falls off the frame after you remove that latch in the grip.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,827 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Is there any trick to make the upper removal/reinstallation on the frame easier? Our new 22/45 Lite I can do it with just my hands (barely, it's a struggle, I have to press the muzzle down on a desktop to reinstall, but I can do it). But my 30+ year old Mark II steel pistol there's no way to do it by hand currently - I always have to use a wooden mallet to both remove and reinstall the barrel. It's been like that since day one when I bought it decades ago (i.e., it's not dirty, just excessively tight). My friend has a near identical Mark II, same age, and his barrel basically falls off the frame after you remove that latch in the grip.
Obviously Ruger has never identified whch of its production procedures or equipment is responsible for the mismatch. I guess they don't really care. I'm sure that with some dye and a little filing or grinding, the problem could be solved, and the work would be hidden after assembly. I don't have one of my own, and I've never had a customer ask me or seem willing to pay for it. I guess the piece of 2X4 and a hammer or mallet is still the accepted procedure. Sure plays hell with disasembly in the field doesn't it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
They are plenty accurate out of the box but the trigger is cheap. Putting a good trigger on them makes them a quality entry level target gun. I think I took nearly 1/4 inch of pre & post travel out of the trigger by getting rid of the stock one and putting in a good one.
I have a Mark 3 that is quite accurate and has a decent trigger pull weight, but it's a little on the mushy side and has the pre and post travel that you mentioned. Do you have any recommendations for a nice after market trigger?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,182 Posts
I have a Mark 3 that is quite accurate and has a decent trigger pull weight, but it's a little on the mushy side and has the pre and post travel that you mentioned. Do you have any recommendations for a nice after market trigger?
I put the volquartzen system into mine. It has the 2 screws that remove most of that. Just be sure to leave a tiny bit of wiggle for the reset or it will fire once... and not again :)

Mine is a franken gun, so I am not sure what all you need to buy but their site will tell you.
Mine came from a beat up MKII and a shiny new MKIII. I tore them both apart and came out with one.

https://www.volquartsen.com/products/761-target-trigger-for-mkii-and-mkiii

That is the key piece but typically you also replace the hammer and sear, and in a MKIII you get rid of the mag disconnect and loaded chamber indicator guts. Getting rid of the blasted disconnect takes a new hammer I think.

It can be involved to do all that stuff. Prepare for a good half day of messing with it; I spread that half day over 2 days as I walk away when I get irritated with it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,876 Posts
Getting rid of the blasted disconnect takes a new hammer I think.
Not on my 22/45. It only required a replacement bushing. $10. Simple to install. Works perfectly.

https://www.tandemkross.com/Steel-Hammer-Bushing-for-Mark-III-and-2245-Pistols_p_9.html


Tandenkross just came out with a new replacement trigger for the 22/45's (I don't know if it fits the non-22/45 variety of the Mark series pistols or not). I am thinking about getting one. I DO NOT KNOW HOW GOOD OR BAD IT IS. As I said, I'm just thinking about getting one. $35:

https://www.tandemkross.com/Victory-Trigger-for-the-Ruger-MKIII-2245-by-TANDEMKROSS_p_197.html

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,182 Posts
Looks like it has the critical features (the 2 screws for pre and post travel). Its attractive, and many target shooters swear by a flat trigger instead of a curved one.

The thing about that bushing is that not all the hammers have the hole for it. I don't know which models don't have the right hole, but some don't. Like I said mine is a mix of parts (and one of those was a 22 45) so I am not a reliable source on what pieces a stock gun needs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
I appreciate the info. If I don't care about removing the magazine disconnect or the loaded chamber indicator, could I just swap that trigger and be done without messing with new hammers?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Actually after looking into the magazine disconnect, I now want to git rid of that sucker. I think it's the reason that I don't have my magazines fall free very well right now. I had assumed it was just the magazines themselves and not a useless part holding things up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,182 Posts
I appreciate the info. If I don't care about removing the magazine disconnect or the loaded chamber indicator, could I just swap that trigger and be done without messing with new hammers?
Yes but if you are serious about accuracy and trying to make the gun be all it can be, you want that thing out of there.

The loaded chamber indicator is easy. Its a self contained part, you can take it out, remove the offending bits, and put the part that fills the hole back in place.

The mag disconnect is the real design fubar. It impacts the trigger pull significantly and for that reason removal is critical if you want the best trigger you can get.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,876 Posts
You really DO want to get rid of that magazine disconnect. It makes a big difference. Magazines fall free. Trigger is improved. Reassembly after cleaning is much better. All that for $10 and a few minutes of your time installing it. A no brainer!

Extended bumper pads for the magazines are nice too, if you have the 22/45 variety of Mark pistol. It makes them easier to get fully inserted (no more potentially pinching your hand). I got my bumpers from Brownells, because their three-pack is cheaper. But lots of places make a variation of this item. I'm sure they all work fine. But these ones I got from Brownells are for the 22/45's, not the standard Mark series pistols.

http://www.brownells.com/magazines/...ase-pad-3-pack-sku078000246-71451-158212.aspx


I have not been able to get my LCI (Loaded Chamber Indicator) removed. That is reportedly much easier on the all-steel pistols than on the aluminum 22/45 Lites. I have the Lite version. The pin that holds the original LCI in place is a stubborn little beast, to put it mildly. I'm not sure I'll ever be able to get mine out. The LCI may be the cause of feeding jams, if you are experiencing any of those. If so, you may want to try to get rid of the LCI.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,827 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I appreciate the info. If I don't care about removing the magazine disconnect or the loaded chamber indicator, could I just swap that trigger and be done without messing with new hammers?
You are going to have a major disassembly to replace the trigger in the Ruger, and the hammer will come out anyway. When you see the parts that will be removed and understand the complications with Ruger's lockwork involved in reassembly, you might consider buying the Volquartzen accurizing kit and use their one piece drop-in trigger group. The rest of the Ruger stuff you will have to reuse will be enough of a problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Thanks for all the info here, now I have another project on the list. Between gun tweaks and chores from the wife, I don't have a lot of free time anymore. I hope I didn't steer the thread too far off of its original course, but I bet this is good info for more people than just me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,876 Posts
WPhilB47 - You have me a little confused. You started this thread saying you wouldn't install any more accurizing kits. But in a post a few up from this one, you said we might want to get the Volquartson accurizing kit (which includes hammer, sear, etc.) to make things simpler than installing just a trigger (I assume like the Tabdemkross offering). At least I thought that's what you said.

  1. So is the Volquartson accurizing kit easy to install or not? I'm confused about that.
  2. It sounds like you alluded that the Tandemkross trigger-only replacement would be difficult to install. Is that correct?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,827 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
WPhilB47 - You have me a little confused. You started this thread saying you wouldn't install any more accurizing kits. But in a post a few up from this one, you said we might want to get the Volquartson accurizing kit (which includes hammer, sear, etc.) to make things simpler than installing just a trigger (I assume like the Tabdemkross offering). At least I thought that's what you said.

  1. So is the Volquartson accurizing kit easy to install or not? I'm confused about that.
  2. It sounds like you alluded that the Tandemkross trigger-only replacement would be difficult to install. Is that correct?
I didn't mean to indicate there was anything wrong with the Volquartson kits. They are first class. I just strongly dislike working on the Ruger Mark III and Lite series pistols. They are a pain. The Volquartson kit is easier to install than reassembling with the original Ruger parts. My last point was meant to indicate that if I was going to tear the Ruger all the way down to replace the trigger, I would replace everything I could while I was there. Replacing the trigger will improver the overtravel and reset, but will do nothing for the creep and mush in the Ruger lockwork. Replacing the sear, springs, hammer, and the new drop-in trigger from Volquartson will make for a serious shooter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,416 Posts
As I recall, replacing the trigger doesn't change the pull weight. The hammer replacement drops the pull from like 5 pounds to 2 pounds. If dollars are scarce, replace the hammer but not the trigger. If you want optimum performance, replace both and shim the trigger to minimize side wobble.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,876 Posts
My last point was meant to indicate that if I was going to tear the Ruger all the way down to replace the trigger, I would replace everything I could while I was there.
OK, I understand now.

It sounds like these Mark series pistols are just like Rugers 10/22 rifles. You buy it, then you throw 95% of it away and replace all the scrapped stuff with custom parts!

I think, since this 22/45 I have been calling mine is really my wifes (I just said "mine" for simplicity/convenience), that I may just leave it alone after having gotten rid of the mag disconnect (and still hoping to get rid of the LCI). I hate to say it, but my wife probably wouldn't notice the difference even if I loaded the thing up with the best parts out there. If the 22/45 were actually my gun, I'd probably do all of these mods, or at least most of them. But I have my S&W SW22 pistol for my target shooting, and so far I'm happy with that one just as it came from the factory (with the addition of the Vortex red-dot). The 22/45 isn't THAT bad as it comes from the factory. There are a lot worse out there. But getting rid of the mag disconnect was certainly a great thing to do.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,827 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
OK, I understand now.

It sounds like these Mark series pistols are just like Rugers 10/22 rifles. You buy it, then you throw 95% of it away and replace all the scrapped stuff with custom parts!

I think, since this 22/45 I have been calling mine is really my wifes (I just said "mine" for simplicity/convenience), that I may just leave it alone after having gotten rid of the mag disconnect (and still hoping to get rid of the LCI). I hate to say it, but my wife probably wouldn't notice the difference even if I loaded the thing up with the best parts out there. If the 22/45 were actually my gun, I'd probably do all of these mods, or at least most of them. But I have my S&W SW22 pistol for my target shooting, and so far I'm happy with that one just as it came from the factory (with the addition of the Vortex red-dot). The 22/45 isn't THAT bad as it comes from the factory. There are a lot worse out there. But getting rid of the mag disconnect was certainly a great thing to do.
Sounds reasonable. If you get the chance, do try to shoot one with the complete kit in it. The difference will be so obvious that even your wife would probable be impressed.
 
1 - 20 of 31 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top