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Review of the Hi-Tech Defender choke adapter

7.9K views 1 reply 1 participant last post by  BJK  
#1 ·
This will be an ongoing review hopefully in 2 parts. Initial observations now and later with the various chokes after I get them to test in it.

So comparing the standard Defender brake against the adapter version....

The first thing that's immediately noticeable is the length difference. The standard is (all dimensions by metal scale) 2 1/16" long and the choke adapter version is 2 7/16". Because there is more metal in the adapter version there is a noticeable difference in weight as well though neither is going to strain the arm.
Standard: 3.570 oz
Adapter: 4.775 oz

While the standard has open ports throughout it's length the adapter has the ports closest to the gun muzzle closed off, the additional length is used for an additional set of round ports making for some braking effect if no choke tube is installed. I'm on record as stating that any braking is minimal even on the standard version (SV from now on) so any braking on the adapter version (AV) is even less. But the look is maintained and frankly it looks like it means business, they both do. Where the very end of the SV has a few scallops the AV dispenses with those. The OD of both appear to be the same.

Looking inside the muzzle end of each I see not difference. But look in the end that screws onto the KS7 and there are differences. Both have threads that get screwed onto the firearm to affix it into place. Down from those is a shelf that both units use to bottom out against the barrel. The SV has a noticeably bigger ID and a smaller shelf. The AV has a smaller ID so a larger shelf. Seen in front of that shelf on the AV is the thread that holds the choke tube in place. By just making the ID smaller Hi-Tech was able to have the meat for the threads. Pretty slick.

Installation instructions for both units appear to be the same from what I remember of the SV unit; it's been awhile since I installed it.

Regarding the 2 holes in the AV that are there I assume for some braking effect... I never intend to use them. My plan is to always have a choke tube in place as a thread protector for the internal choke tube threads. If the threads are never exposed then they can't get buggered up even with powder residue. Will those holes be open and available for braking when a choke tube is installed? I just don't know yet, not do I care really. But I'll make note of it when my choke tubes get tested.

Could Hi-Tech have modified the SV design and kept the same basic unit? Maybe. The choke would have extended beyond the muzzle I assume. So I'm guessing that the additional length is also there for cosmetic reasons. If I'm wrong after receiving my choke tubes I'll eat crow and 'fess up.
 
#2 · (Edited)
My Remington brand choke tubes came in on Monday so I was able to work on the Defender Adapter a bit more. I selected one of the choke tubes randomly. It turned out to be the Imp Cyl tube. I put some grease on it and tried to screw it in and got maybe 3/4 of a revolution in and came to an abrupt halt. I repeated that a few times, then contacted Hi-Tech to tell them my story of woe.

Karl got back to me to take care of the problem, but in the meantime a bit more thought took place. I was dealing not with one item, but 2. I was dealing with the choke adapter AND the choke tube. So I grabbed another tube and it went right in. Grabbed the next one and yup, it too went right in. So the problem was the initial choke tube and not the adapter. Let me repeat that, the problem with the choke fit in the adapter was the brand new chke tube and not the Defender choke adapter. In the meantime Karl got back to me and I got back to him to tell him what I had done and,”Please do nothing until I do more to fix it on my end.”.

So I took one of the easy to install tubes and greased the heck out of it and got grease on all of the adapter choke threads (not the threads that hold it onto the barrel, you don’t want grease there). Ran it in and out a few times. Then greased up the offending choke tube and ran it in as far as I could. Hit “the wall” and backed it out, continued to do that and eventually something gave and I was able to run it in for a few revolutions before things got tight again. Continued running it out and in and applying lots of torque. You definitely want choke wrenches for this, you should have them anyway if you have choke tubes. Eventually I got the tube to bottom out and repeated that a number of times until it got easier.

I never did figure out exactly what caused this problem, but it was definitely a product of tight tolerances and the culprit, if one has to assign blame, was the one choke tube. BTW, tight tolerances are a good thing when dealing with the bore of a firearm.

I was going to use Bore Butter on the threads but I have some Permatex Silicone ceramic extreme Brake parts lubricant # 24129 on hand for suppressor threads so I used that. It’s designed to take heat without ill effects if it breaks down so I figured even if it’s overkill, well, OK, it’ll still work. I don’t expect the choke adapter to ever get as hot as a can does. FWIW, you definitely want to use grease on the threads of the choke tube. It’s a really good idea to be able to get it off after lots of firing.

The choke tubes I bought from Amazon are extended tubes and make the choke adapter another 7/8" longer. That doesn’t bother me and the choke label is plainly visible without unscrewing the choke tube. I’m no expert, but I believe choke tubes are available that aren’t extended. Another benefit that I didn't foresee, I really didn't like the flashlight sticking way out there by itself. Now it has a small amount of protection.

Regarding the choke wrench. They aren’t fancy items, or they needn’t be. I bought these: Carlson's Choke Tube Universal Choke Wrench, 2 Pack . They sorta work but they’re sort of like universal size underwear. They’re supposed to fit a range of gauges and don’t really fit 12 gauge particularly well. So with the torque I needed to apply I put it on the bench grinder to make it fit the chokes better. Now I have custom fit choke wrenches that work much better. They engage the slots in the choke fully and no longer just engage the corners of the slots.

In discussing this with Karl if I had to do it over I would buy their choke tubes and not have the problem at all. FWIW, customer service... Karl was on this problem extremely rapidly after my email and would have initiated procedures to take care of it immediately if I had left him on his own. I stopped him because of what I saw happening on my end. Great customer service.

After the Defender Choke Adapter and choke tube. Flashlight position is unchanged from below. It no longer has even a minimal brake effect as even the open 2 end holes are covered by the choke tube. Not a bad thing that. It will keep the soot off of the flashlight lense. Regarding flashlight positioning, I have small hands and with the light there I can keep my hand on the pump handle and just raise my thumb for momentary light. It might be positioned better to have a rail far forward on the handle, but that's just speculation.


With the "normal" Defender brake. Flashlight position is unchanged from above.


Shooting results will follow as soon as I can get to it.