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own shoot and been collecting brass for 7.62x39, 7.62x54r and now .30-30.

reloading gurus, is there a multi purpose 124 -ish grain bullet that would work across all three cartridges? and powder since they’re all centerfire rifle?
In the 120-130-ish grain weights, Hodgdon lists BL-C(2) powders for all three. In the lighter bullet weights, 108-110-ish, Hodgdon lists Benchmark as well. You could probably work up a load using Benchmark for 124-ish grain 30-30 loads.

Of course, you could use Hodgdon's Trail Boss powder. They have a simple formula for working up safe loads for pretty much any rifle cartridge. The short version is that max charge for the cartridge is 100% case fill right up to the maximum seating depth of whatever bullet you're using (no compressed loads). Starting load is 70% (by weight) of the max load.

https://hodgdon.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/12/trail-boss-reduced-loads-2018.pdf

I've been loading for my father's 100+ year old antique Winchester 30-30 using Trail Boss.

Peace favor your sword,
Kirk
 

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Another benefit of Trail Boss is that it will be one of the last powders to sell out.
 
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own shoot and been collecting brass for 7.62x39, 7.62x54r and now .30-30.

reloading gurus, is there a multi purpose 124 -ish grain bullet that would work across all three cartridges? and powder since they’re all centerfire rifle?

excuse my dumb question in advance
Not sure what you are shooting the .30-30 in but if its got a tube mag, no more than one Spitzer bullet at a time in the mag tube.
 

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stevens model 325B magazine fed, bolt gun
recently had ejector and magazine release repaired, and new fiber optic iron sights installed. New wood stock.
Last range trip had it shooting about 6 inches left at 50 yards before a thunder storm chased us off the range. Dad had this in the 60's and had been neglected before he got it.

IMG_1402.jpg
 

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Been reloading for many years. I am about to start loading 223/5.56. Have not loaded small mouth cases yet. I have a tumbler to clean cases. I have small ceramic media and stainless steel media. Which would be better for use with the small neck of the 233 case. Would I have trouble with the ceramic media not getting inside of the case clean? What do you use and why? Any commits would help. It will be at least a week or more before I have everything I want for reloading this ammo in my hands. It is hard to find cases and bullets for this caliber, I do have small rifle primers and several powders to try. I will start with CFE-223 powder first. :):):)

Steve
 

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I use corn cob media with a capful of liquid turtle wax thoroughly mixed into the media. The brass comes out looking like new!
 

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Is that with a vibrator or a tumbler? I have both but prefer the tumbler. 😉 😉 😉

Steve
 

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Been reloading for many years. I am about to start loading 223/5.56. Have not loaded small mouth cases yet. I have a tumbler to clean cases. I have small ceramic media and stainless steel media. Which would be better for use with the small neck of the 233 case. Would I have trouble with the ceramic media not getting inside of the case clean? What do you use and why? Any commits would help. It will be at least a week or more before I have everything I want for reloading this ammo in my hands. It is hard to find cases and bullets for this caliber, I do have small rifle primers and several powders to try. I will start with CFE-223 powder first. :):):)

Steve
Pm me about bullets. I have some.
 

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I use corn cob media with a capful of liquid turtle wax thoroughly mixed into the media. The brass comes out looking like new!
I used walnut hull media for years. I switched to stainless pins with soapy water and never looked back. They make the brass look BETTER than new. They clean the inside of the brass, which the walnut media did too but not as well. The stainless pins clean inside the primer pockets and flash holes, something the walnut media never did. I separate the brass from the pins and do a separate rinse with a scavenger magnet to get the last few pins out of the flash holes and necks. It's not difficult, and the brass has no pins stuck anywhere. It's easier than making sure no walnut media is trapped in the brass, and I was using walnut hulls because it polished better and was less likely to be trapped in the brass than corn cob media.

I also like dumping dirty water with the stainless pins instead of a plume of dust with lead in my basement when vibratory bowl cleaning using corn cob or crushed walnut hulls. I always start with clean water so the process is the same. With tumbling media, the media becomes loaded with crud from the cases and wax and gradually becomes less useful. Eventually, I'd pitch the dirty media and start with new media. I prefer always starting with clean soapy water and discarding the dirty water each time. The stainless pins cost a little more to get started but there is no recurring cost as there is with corn cob or crushed walnut hulls. I always have water and a small amount of detergent,and there's no need to store a bag or bucket of crushed walnut hull.

IMO, if you're starting to clean brass now, choosing walnut media would be like choosing a carburetor for a car rather than fuel injection. It works, but it's old technology that doesn't work as well.
 

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lizard litter and a dryer sheet. Its stupid cheap at the pet store, sheet keeps the dust down.
cant help on bullets I got a deal on 2500 years ago and then we quit 3 gun right after that so here I sit with a lifetime supply for what little I shoot 223s now. I don't care about the inside of the case. I want them clean enough to feed properly, don't care if they look new. Got a trimmer that knocks them down to spec.
 

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Been reloading for many years. I am about to start loading 223/5.56. Have not loaded small mouth cases yet. I have a tumbler to clean cases. I have small ceramic media and stainless steel media. Which would be better for use with the small neck of the 233 case. Would I have trouble with the ceramic media not getting inside of the case clean?
Depends on the size of your media. Either one should work well enough. You and I both know that you're going to end up trying both and comparing it, just because you enjoy a little tinkering. :)

Peace favor your sword,
Kirk
 

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I used walnut hull media for years. I switched to stainless pins with soapy water and never looked back. They make the brass look BETTER than new. They clean the inside of the brass, which the walnut media did too but not as well. The stainless pins clean inside the primer pockets and flash holes, something the walnut media never did. I separate the brass from the pins and do a separate rinse with a scavenger magnet to get the last few pins out of the flash holes and necks. It's not difficult, and the brass has no pins stuck anywhere. It's easier than making sure no walnut media is trapped in the brass, and I was using walnut hulls because it polished better and was less likely to be trapped in the brass than corn cob media.
Instead of pins, I bought 1,000 steel BB's from the sporting goods section. It's a ton cheaper and yields the same results. I do have to watch out for small primer pockets though. The BB is nearly the same size and tight primer pockets can sometimes capture the BB and I have to pop them out. I use a needle awl but you could use a decapping pin if you were careful.

No, I don't worry at all about the BB's rusting. They're actually black oxided now. It was an accident but they are. The BB's were Zinc coated but eventually that coating wore off. They DID rust because I let them sit while damp once. They got kinda red-brown. I just threw them back in the tumbler. I knew that tumbling would card all the rust off as it was cleaning the brass. Because I didn't want them to rust again, when I sorted my brass out, I took the BB's, which were now a smooth dark brown, and put them in the toaster over for a few cycles to dry them off.

What I had forgotten was that this is EXACTLY the process used for centuries to Gun Blue steel (aka "Rust Bluing"). It's a form of Black Oxide.

Now I just give my BB's a cycle or two in the toaster oven after each use.



Peace favor your sword,
Kirk
 

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lizard litter and a dryer sheet. Its stupid cheap at the pet store, sheet keeps the dust down.
cant help on bullets I got a deal on 2500 years ago and then we quit 3 gun right after that so here I sit with a lifetime supply for what little I shoot 223s now. I don't care about the inside of the case. I want them clean enough to feed properly, don't care if they look new. Got a trimmer that knocks them down to spec.
After I discovered how well wet tumbling with BB's works, haven't used Lizard Litter at all. I still have a lot of it. Gave half away to a friend who's just getting into reloading.

Peace favor your sword,
Kirk
 

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Thanks for the replies. I have all three types of media and a tumbler and vibratory bowl. I had gone to the tumbler when I was shooting Black Powder Cartridge Rifles. The pins do a good job if you keep them clean. I like the ceramic but I will have to check the size. Like Kirk said I may try more than one way. Have to go dig out everything because I have not cleaned any cases in 3 or 4 years. I sure miss shooting often. ISGO. :eek::eek::eek:

Steve
 

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Backing up a page to the 300 size question ... You do not want to shoot a 308 in a 311 ... the gas blow by is not only an accuracy problem but in some cases may lead to some internal damage.
I use 303 british for the upper end, your 311 may be able to take them.
30-30 is an aggravating round. It isnt well suited to use the same projectiles as much of anything else.
 

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.308 bullets can be powder coated to make something very close to .311 bullets. A heavy powder coating and a light bullet resizing seems to work well. This can be useful because it's often easier to find more variety in .308 bullet molds.
 

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Can you powder coat a jacketed bullet? Does it work the same as a lead bullet? Has anyone tried to coat a jacketed bullet? ........ I think I am going in circles. I am getting dizzzzzy. It really s--ks getting old and trying to keep up with new things. I have spent 2 days of and on the net trying to find loading data for 32 H&R mag using 100 gr. SWC coated bullets. I contacted a couple of places trying to find a book that would have data for cast 32 cal. bullets. There customer help line had no ideal what I was talking about. I have bought 2 different books and one of them did not have any data for 32 cal. bullets data at all. NONE NADDA nothing. 😖😖😖 🥴🥴🥴

Steve
 
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