I have some Hand loads with starline brass and remington 1.5 primers I get alot of misfires with these I changed my firing pin and spring today and I think I got ever more misfires any hand loaders out there that may know what is going on
the only thing that comes to mind is poorly seated primers. i had two or three failure to fires with my p3at, which has 500-1000 rounds through it. all of these were handloads w/ rem small pistol primers. i've cleaned out my firing pin channel and pay more attention when seating my primers and have not had any issues for several hundred rounds now, but who knows, its so rare that its hard to say if the problem has been properly addressed. oh, i also think that rem primers have a pretty hard cup. there should be softer ones out there. i'm stuck with thousands and thousands of rems though one more thing: this may not be related but make sure you let the trigger reset completely. i think i've read you can short stroke the p3at, causing light strikes.
Ir was remington small pistol primers in the reloads. But i had the same problem with some remington UMC ammo. I removed the firing pin spring. streched it then trimmed it back to a 16th shorter over all. My thinking is it would allow the firing pin to strike a little harder. Back athe the range with some more UMC out of 40 rounds I had one falure to fire so Im Lost the gun goes back to kel tec tomorrow
Hi, I had a friend who had a similar ignition problem to yours, and I did a fluff and buff which included the firing pin channel, polishing the exterior of the firing pin and re-contouring the nose of of the firing pin which fixed his ignition problem. His firing pin had a flat on the nose left over from CNC machining. Chucking the pin into a drill press and carefully using a needle file and 200, then 400 & 600 grit emery paper I was able to round the profile of the nose without changing the overall length (shown above.) The firing pin having less resistance and a smaller surface area on the nose ignited the primers. The trick was to use a rounded profile so the pin would not pierce the primer. Best Regards:
That may be my next project Im on my second firing pin. I contacted Kel tec about sending me a new slide. Im thinking that the breach face was not milled correctly therefore the firing pin does not extend far enough on some bullets for proper ignition. If I cound get my money back at this point I would be done with all this.
Might as well call KT and order a new spring. And while you are at it, order a new mainspring for the hammer. That right there is very likely your problem. They are very easy to over-stretch when putting them in and getting the spring catch/grip plug back in place. You can't "stretch" a spring. Well, you can, but it won't stay stretched very long. When you stretch a spring, it exceeds the elastic limit of the spring steel, and in effect, it becomes weaker steel then it was. Sort of like bending a paper-clip back and forth to break it. Eventually your stretched FP spring will collapse and then you will have compromised drop-safety. rc
I have another spring on hand The whole pistol goes to keltec monday This is my 4th keltec and if I had not had good guns from them i'd own a ruger by now. The streched and shortened spring is not the problem It has improved since the spring mods
What rc said... Stretching a spring is never a solution but is almost always eventually a problem. Any gain will be temporary. Also, as rc said, I'd change the hammer spring before sending it back. KT can have a spring at your door in several days. Do not over-stretch it when installing. Sending it back for service will take a month or two so a new hammer spring is worth a try. Also, the hammer block system on the gun makes it totally drop safe. You could slightly shorten the fp spring if that helps, but, with quality ammunition, the gun should work with unmodified springs, assuming they are to spec.
It ws the firing ptn spring that i shortened, i have a new firing pin spring pin on hand. Yesterday I sent keltec the barrel and slide for replacment I have a new hammer spring on hand for replacement. Is the hammer spring hard to replace?
This video should help; [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bn0iM06KhHw&feature=channel[/ame] Note , it is possible to put the spring back in place without removing the frame from the grip. The vid is for frame removal but it shows how to remove the spring too Go slow an try to keep from overstretching as Tx mentioned
