Hey folks, proud new owner of a KSG. Had some serious issues in the first 300 rounds with reliability-- beyond even proper use, I had problems with consistent ejection, the magazines would seize and prevent loading, and I'd get shells stuck above the loading gate that wouldn't eject. At one point, a bad ejection jammed the elevator firmly against the sidewall.
So after a few hundred bucks in parts and some hours with a file and a Dremel, I think I've got it running at about 95%. Even with high-brass snapcaps I can run both magazines empty without trouble.
A few things I did:
Once you remove the trigger assembly, you can see the actuator bar that pushed down the arms of the Cartridge Catch Outer (#331) on the rearward stroke, and moves the Cartridge Stop Actuator (#334) going forward. The Mag Stop Actuator (#228) moves across the Cartridge Catches, depressing them. What I did is with a small file, very gently beveled the working edge of the Actuator where it meets the CCO. This reduces friction at the rearmost point of the forend operation, allowing the catches to drop correctly with significantly less force required.
I used some alcohol and compressed air to clean out the hinge point for the CCO, and then once the alcohol dried, I lubricated it very thoroughly with RemOil and let it sit. This seems to have largely cured my issues with the CCO articulating correctly. It's equally important here to emphasize that you need to run the forend completely -forward-, not just back, because this pulls the Actuator arm forward and allows the Cartridge Stop Inner (#338) to drop out of the way and let the next rounds start to feed. The easiest way to explain this is just for you to take off your grip housing and watch what's going on near the magazines as you cycle the forend back and forth. It starts to make much more sense how this runs once you do.
I also chamfered the entrance to the magazine wells with an 80 grit flappy paddle and a 300 grit polishing media nub. You'll need a Fordham tool or an extended arm for your Dremel, as there's not a lot of good angles to work from. This softened a lot of hard edges and sharp points. I also polished the top of the Bolt Lock, #174. During loading, shells slide along the angled top of it and I lightly sanded then polished it in order to get a smooth, shiny, low-friction surface. Finally, I installed the Tandemkross improved magazine followers. The reduction in drag during loading is significant, and as a plus, makes switching off an empty magazine almost effortless. Highly recommend those. Now I'm having a much easier time loading even high-brass full-sized training shells.
For ergonomics, I added in the extended lower picatinny rail, a shell deflector, a kydex cheek rest, and a Magpul VFG.
I'll add in some pics if folks would find another visual reference helpful.
So after a few hundred bucks in parts and some hours with a file and a Dremel, I think I've got it running at about 95%. Even with high-brass snapcaps I can run both magazines empty without trouble.
A few things I did:
Once you remove the trigger assembly, you can see the actuator bar that pushed down the arms of the Cartridge Catch Outer (#331) on the rearward stroke, and moves the Cartridge Stop Actuator (#334) going forward. The Mag Stop Actuator (#228) moves across the Cartridge Catches, depressing them. What I did is with a small file, very gently beveled the working edge of the Actuator where it meets the CCO. This reduces friction at the rearmost point of the forend operation, allowing the catches to drop correctly with significantly less force required.
I used some alcohol and compressed air to clean out the hinge point for the CCO, and then once the alcohol dried, I lubricated it very thoroughly with RemOil and let it sit. This seems to have largely cured my issues with the CCO articulating correctly. It's equally important here to emphasize that you need to run the forend completely -forward-, not just back, because this pulls the Actuator arm forward and allows the Cartridge Stop Inner (#338) to drop out of the way and let the next rounds start to feed. The easiest way to explain this is just for you to take off your grip housing and watch what's going on near the magazines as you cycle the forend back and forth. It starts to make much more sense how this runs once you do.
I also chamfered the entrance to the magazine wells with an 80 grit flappy paddle and a 300 grit polishing media nub. You'll need a Fordham tool or an extended arm for your Dremel, as there's not a lot of good angles to work from. This softened a lot of hard edges and sharp points. I also polished the top of the Bolt Lock, #174. During loading, shells slide along the angled top of it and I lightly sanded then polished it in order to get a smooth, shiny, low-friction surface. Finally, I installed the Tandemkross improved magazine followers. The reduction in drag during loading is significant, and as a plus, makes switching off an empty magazine almost effortless. Highly recommend those. Now I'm having a much easier time loading even high-brass full-sized training shells.
For ergonomics, I added in the extended lower picatinny rail, a shell deflector, a kydex cheek rest, and a Magpul VFG.
I'll add in some pics if folks would find another visual reference helpful.