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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After having many FTE with my new 2G 3AT (6-06)
I did the F&B, new extractor, spring, screw and
finger extention thing. I had no trouble at all
for 230 rounds.Now in the last 100 rounds I've had
1 stovepipe and 6 FTE and no movement from the button head.

The only thing I've noticed is with every cleaning (3) since the FTE's started the recoil spring is binding up on dis assembely and I remove the slide very carefully to avoid this.

So:

1. Could it be binding pre dis assembely and if so
could it cause FTE ?

2. The extractor is still sharp maybe not as sharp as new but, could it wear down that fast(230 rnds)

I've called KT and have a guide rod, recoil springs,
extractor, spring and screw on the way.I will start with the rod and springs if no luck will change out the extractor and spring again and if that is not enough back to FL. it goes.

Is this what you would do, any other suggestions?

Thanks all,

Rob
 

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Re: Recoil spring hang up = FTE ?

Check the guide rod hole in the slide.

There has been a few reports recently of the hole in the slide being countersunk way too big.
That lets the end of the small spring get wedged between the hole & the guide rod. Someone even reported the spring came clear out through the over-size hole.

http://www.ktog.org/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=104;action=display;num=1161486415;start=0

If you have the oversize hole, you need to send it back to KT for a new slide.

There is no fixing it, short of welding up the hole, or bushing it, and re-drilling it, which I wouldn't recommend.


rcmodel
 

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Re: Recoil spring hang up = FTE ?

  Dry fire and leave the hammer down. This will prevent firing pin from moving if you don't move the slide.

  Remove the button head, spring and extractor. Check for carbon build up under extractor or spring. This could be your problem. If you find it, remove it.

  If you haven't moved slide: Just put extractor and spring back in, add a little blue or purple loctite just under the head, and retighten the screw.

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Re: Recoil spring hang up = FTE ?

Thanks rc, I'll check.

TPP I could see some goop under the extractor
my last cleaning, should I be cleaning under the extractor every 100-200 rounds?

Thanks,

Rob
 

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Re: Recoil spring hang up = FTE ?

Yes! Once you have the new, harder BH screw, (#183) it should be no problem to do it that often.

CHANGING P3AT OR PF9 EXTRACTOR
First order new extractor, spring and new hardened button head screw. Buy some blue loctite.

WITHOUT MESSING WITH FIRING PIN:

1. Dry fire.
2. Leave hammer down. Do not move slide.
3. Remove button head screw. Heat to loosen if necessary.
4. Remove old spring and extractor.
5. Replace extractor and spring.
6. Apply a wee bit of loctite on threads just under head of screw.
7. If slide has not been moved: Install screw and tighten.

WITH FIRING PIN:

1. Remove slide.
2. Fold a towel and rest the back of slide on it.
3. Remove button head, spring and extractor.
4. Lift slide and shake out firing pin and spring. If spring won't come out, push through breechface with a toothpick.
5. Clean burrs out of firing pin channel with aptly sized drill bit. (by hand with in and out motion.
6. Finish cleaning with a (tobacco) pipe cleaner.
7. Spray a little silicone spray in channel.
8. Install new spring and FP.
9. Install extractor and spring.
10 Apply a little blue loctite on threads just under head of screw.
11. Insert screw and tighten just a few threads.
12. Align notch of firing pin so it is below screw.
13. Hold firing pin in and gently tighten screw.
14. Don't finish tightening untill you make sure firing pin can easily move in and out.
15. Finish tightening BH screw.

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Re: Recoil spring hang up = FTE ?

OK,

I will check the guide rod hole and clean
under the extractor and put the old extractor
back in with a new screw.

If I still get FTE
STILL FTE

I will replace guide rod and springs.

If I still get FTE
STILL FTE

I will install new extractor, spring and screw.

If I still get FTE
STILL FTE
Back to FL. it goes ,I'll ship it out this week

After installing the new extractor, spring and screw
the FTE's went to 2 per mag, BH was tight and no
limpwristing. Before the new parts I had 1 FTE per mag.

Rob
 

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Re: Recoil spring hang up = FTE ?

Rubb said:
should I be cleaning under the extractor every 100-200 rounds?Thanks,  Rob
It's not necessary, or desirable to take it apart that often.

Get yourself a can of Gun Scrubber, or automotive Brake Cleaner spray and blast it out when you clean the gun. Re-oil & you are good to go.

You can also hose out the firing pin channel with the same stuff.

My FG extractor & firing pin haven't been out since I got it working right well over a year ago.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it.


rcmodel
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Re: Recoil spring hang up = FTE ?

Update,

Guide rod hole was good, no chance of small spring
getting through and the large spring fits snug.

Removed BH, spring and extractor, it came out
without heat or stripping the head and I used the
dreaded RED loctite. 4 Q-tips
both sides to remove all dirt. I re-installed same parts with a new screw I had on hand from KT
and another small amout of red LT.

There was some wear and a small burr on the extractor on the ammo in side, sanded off the burr with 600 gr wet or dry about 3 swipes did it,
would not have even noticed it without the
magnifing glass.

It's ejecting fine manually and the fireing pin is
in working order too.

I'll give an update after my next shoot.

Thanks again,

Rob

Edit to say: we must have been typing at the same time rc, It's done now we'll see :D
 

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Re: Recoil spring hang up = FTE ?

What I am so incapable of understanding is that it appears as though we consumers put up with a heck of alot of crap from such manufacturers as Kel-Tec. Why not make a reliable weapon that doesn't FTE or FTF in the first couple of hundred rounds. I have only owned one other auto, a S&W 669 (9mm) that being from 1987 on to the present. I think I may have had about a dozen or so stovepipes in the first 200 rounds fired and no problems beyond that. That to me is reliability!
 

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Re: Recoil spring hang up = FTE ?

rcmodel said:
It's not necessary, or desirable to take it apart that often.

Get yourself a can of Gun Scrubber, or automotive Brake Cleaner spray and blast it out when you clean the gun. Re-oil & you are good to go.

You can also hose out the firing pin channel with the same stuff.

My FG extractor & firing pin haven't been out since I got it working right well over a year ago.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it.


rcmodel
FG a and SG are two different animals.

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Re: Recoil spring hang up = FTE ?

cuda340dbb said:
What I am so incapable of understanding is that it appears as though we consumers put up with a heck of alot of crap from such manufacturers as Kel-Tec.  Why not make a reliable weapon that doesn't FTE or FTF in the first couple of hundred rounds.  I have only owned one other auto, a S&W 669 (9mm) that being from 1987 on to the present.  I think I may have had about a dozen or so stovepipes in the first 200 rounds fired and no problems beyond that.  That to me is reliability!
And I guess you can also hide that 669 in your pocket and no one will ever be able to tell it is there?

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Re: Recoil spring hang up = FTE ?

  It's easy to make a reliable LARGE pistol. Lots of manufacturers do it. The smaller the weapon, the harder it is to make it reliable though.

  There IS no thinner, lighter 7 or 8 shot .380 pistol than a P3AT. Everything is a trade off! If it were easy everyone would make one.

  Eventually, they ARE reliable, and THAT is worth the effort.

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Re: Recoil spring hang up = FTE ?

+1 TPP

I've reasearched every gun I've owned and
knew what I may of had to deal with.
I knew if I could not make it right KT would.
I wanted a pocket pistol and chose the 3AT
based on size, weight, caliber, price and the outstanding warranty.

I would highly suggest anyone looking to buy
should do the same, it's their fault if they don't.

I was a lurker here months before my purchase
and would like to thank you all for that again.

Time to go do more reasearch on the Hi-Point 995,
likely my next purchase.

Rob
 

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Re: Recoil spring hang up = FTE ?

Two Pistol Packer said:
It's easy to make a reliable LARGE pistol. Lots of manufacturers do it. The smaller the weapon, the harder it is to make it reliable though.

There IS no thinner, lighter 7 or 8 shot .380 pistol than a P3AT. Everything is a trade off! If it were easy everyone would make one.

Eventually, they ARE reliable, and THAT is worth the effort.

Packer.

I'm just surprised that (mfg's) can't do both!
 

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Re: Recoil spring hang up = FTE ?

cuda340dbb said:
I'm just surprised that (mfg's) can't do both!
  Okay, let's try this: Kel-Tec is just a small company. And yet they have a monopoly. They make the thinnest, lightest, most concealable .380 pistol.

   Glock doesn't make one. Neither do any of the other "Name" manufacturers. THEY are all afraid to TOUCH this market because it is extremely difficult to make a reliable pistol on this "cutting edge" of technology.

 Now, with such a monopoly, almost any other company would be charging $1000 for each gun--Not Kel-Tec though! Instead they offer it at a VERY reasonable price, with a lifetime warranty and SUPER-EXCELLENT customer service.

  Once you get below a certain slide weight, (and the P3AT is WELL below that.) the human becomes a larger part of the reliability equation. Your wrist, (And its degree of stiffness.) becomes an integral part of slide cycling.

  So, even if they charge $1000, the human factor will still affect reliability.

  You can either be glad that a P3AT even exists, and work with it to make it good, or you can go find another manufacturer's comparable weapon. (NONE.)

   It's highly possible that the new politicians in power will find a way to outlaw these small, cheap to buy, guns soon. Then you might appreciate the lowly P3AT a bit more.

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Re: Recoil spring hang up = FTE ?

From the choir
"Amen, Preacher."
 
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