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Discussion Starter #1
Trying to get used to my new RDB-S (after first having to return it for repair after the first 19 rounds.)

Is it just me or does anyone else feel that gripping the rifle and getting a sight picture ( at least in the way I've done since I got my first bb gun at 9) is awkward.

It seems that putting the stock against my shoulder is difficult and I almost have to turn it 45 degrees to get it in the right position from being too short even with the extension all the way out (not that it adds much length.)

Does anyone else have this experience? is it any better with the other RDB models that have front grips , etc?

This design is interesting but I am having difficulty in wanting to rely on it for defense. Controls are way foreign to what I've been accustomed to as well, especially for things like wanting to rack the slide, or inspect the chamber.
 

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This is probably caused by the grip angle of your firing hand, your firing hand must twist more forward than if it is holding a pistol grip. Some may find this uncomfortable, especially for people with joint problems. The RDB-S is exactly as it is named, a survival rifle, not a fully loaded SCAR16

The RDB platform is new and unique when compared to what people is accustomed with, it has its own advantages just like AR15 has its own. In the Army we have a saying "train as we fight", I recommend you try to train with it for a while before making a conclusion. If you think the grip angle is something you can't get pass then I would recommend you try a regular RDB. My own RDB-C has been through a couple hundred rounds without any malfunction and I would continue to train with it because I like the advantages it offers, such as maneuverability, left hand friendly, and easy brass cleanup. Yes chamber check is not as easy as it on AR15 but you can do a cool HK slap for reloading. Nothing is perfect
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for your thoughts. In retrospect i shouldn't have relied on youtube, but then I haven't seen one of these anywhere to actually try out the handling. I liked being a pound lighter and an inch shorter than other RDBs and seemed a better option (and sometimes even shorter) than many AR pistols. It sure gets some looks and questions at the range though, so that's something. Any idea of a way to install something to make it quieter? Got a lot of comments at the range on the loudness of it. Thought I was shooting 12GA.!
 

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If you can find it for cheap, you can get the regular RDB lower and install on the S. You can get this from KT directly by calling them and make an order but I think the price was pretty high.
Any idea of a way to install something to make it quieter?
I think the obvious answer here is a suppressor but I also recommend you look in to SI Oppressor. You will need to replace the muzzle device which means you will lose the front sight.
 

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Even if you had a pistol, or perhaps a "tactical" grip, you may still have trouble with sight height and getting a sight picture. I don't know if you are one of those iron sight purists because you qualified on irons in the military, or, you're wanting to not rely on optics that fail, I get it.
But its time to to use an optic and a riser, that fits your noggin, on that gun. Forget about cheek weld and all that marksman stuff. In fact, get a setup that you can wear goggles with.

I second the idea of getting another lower. KT is, well, you have to catch Erika on a good day.
You might be better going straight to Robin. I'll PM you the number.
 

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Any idea of a way to install something to make it quieter? Got a lot of comments at the range on the loudness of it. Thought I was shooting 12GA.!
This is due somewhat to the barrel on the -S being barely two inches longer than the gas vent (versus 5 on most ARs), so there's less 'dwell' time to let the pressure drop before ALL the remaining pressure us dumped as noise when the projectile leaves the barrel.

The RDB17 is a bit longer, nothing much to say there as 40% vs 60% of AR dwell is both around half as much as it should be.

Then there's the 20" barrel models: They have the dwell of MORE than a normal AR with 6 inches of barrel between gas block and muzzle end, and everyone at the range says mine sounds like an old sewing machine click-clacking away. I've just learned to love that description.

Downside of my 20" vs your 16" model: More time to let gas go through the vent system means I get more blowback than your model does.
 

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Downside of my 20" vs your 16" model: More time to let gas go through the vent system means I get more blowback than your model does.
My 20 inch RDB-C is Still way better than an M16. All the gas are going down the ejection chute, none come close to my face.
 

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If you can find it for cheap, you can get the regular RDB lower and install on the S. You can get this from KT directly by calling them and make an order but I think the price was pretty high.
I think the obvious answer here is a suppressor but I also recommend you look in to SI Oppressor. You will need to replace the muzzle device which means you will lose the front sight.
Do you know ballpark cost of a regular RDB Lower? I remember reading somewhere prior to buying mine that the pistol grip was easily interchangeable. I wonder if it is just the grip part of the lower that is needed, or the complete lower.
I have short hands and also struggle to get a good grip and reach the trigger on my RDBs
 

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Do you know ballpark cost of a regular RDB Lower? I remember reading somewhere prior to buying mine that the pistol grip was easily interchangeable. I wonder if it is just the grip part of the lower that is needed, or the complete lower.
Need the complete lower, there's very little parts interchange between the featureless and pistol-grip lower shells. Entirely unrelated mag-release, safety, most of the internals except the hammer itself and the ejection chute. So last I heard (which was several months ago when I asked KT) it was $600 for a complete lower.

Honestly there's been a couple here that've just taken a dremel to their stock (NOT THE SHEET METAL, THE PLASTIC) to shorten that up, that's another option. Also the Dan Haga buttstock + riser + Magpul MOE SL for an even thinner pad cuts a full inch off of the factory length if you have the "Hunter" model but that whole combo is ~$200 since you need the buttpad + cheek riser for the first half inch off, then the $60 Magpul stock to steal the pad from for the other half inch.

The lower-swap is almost never done because otherwise you're almost at the cost of a full RDB17 or Defender which have the pistol-grip lower already.
 

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Any idea of a way to install something to make it quieter? Got a lot of comments at the range on the loudness of it. Thought I was shooting 12GA.!
The sound is just having a shorter barrel and lots of excess gas and concussion because of it.
If you can add a muzzle device, a sound forwarder helps to direct a lot of the noise and gasses downrange and not bother the next lanes as much.
I have this on a AR pistol KAK INDUSTRY 1/2-28
and just put this on my RDB-C. KAK INDUSTRY MICRO 1/2-28

*edit: looks like there isn't a way to add a muzzle device without losing the front sight. Maybe putting a flip-up sight on the rail is a suitable substitute.
 

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Kaw Valley has a nice linear compensator that helps direct the muzzle blast and sound downrange. I use them on all my rifles at the range as a courtesy to the people next to me.
 

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Do you know ballpark cost of a regular RDB Lower?
Last time I checked with KT it was 600 as well. Personally I would not mind getting a new/used RDB 17 for a couple hundred more and just swap the lower. Yes you will need the complete lower not just the plastic shell.
 

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Need the complete lower, there's very little parts interchange between the featureless and pistol-grip lower shells. Entirely unrelated mag-release, safety, most of the internals except the hammer itself and the ejection chute. So last I heard (which was several months ago when I asked KT) it was $600 for a complete lower.

Honestly there's been a couple here that've just taken a dremel to their stock (NOT THE SHEET METAL, THE PLASTIC) to shorten that up, that's another option. Also the Dan Haga buttstock + riser + Magpul MOE SL for an even thinner pad cuts a full inch off of the factory length if you have the "Hunter" model but that whole combo is ~$200 since you need the buttpad + cheek riser for the first half inch off, then the $60 Magpul stock to steal the pad from for the other half inch.

The lower-swap is almost never done because otherwise you're almost at the cost of a full RDB17 or Defender which have the pistol-grip lower already.
Thanks, that's what I thought regarding the Lower...
My problem is with the RDBs Survival, and the awkward grip/trigger combination, it is uncomfortable and hard for me to grip firmly. Not sure the DanHaga buttstock would help
 

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My problem is with the RDBs Survival, and the awkward grip/trigger combination, it is uncomfortable and hard for me to grip firmly.
Ah, yeah that's nothing to do with the butt-stock. Is it just too big to wrap your thumb up and over the top of the receiver and grip behind the picatinny rail for you? That portion is 100% identical to the other featureless models. If the RDB's just too big for your thumb to comfortably wrap over top of or you have issues twisting your wrist at that angle there's not much that can be done there. It's intended to be be held more like a break-action shotgun than a standard AR though, if that helps.
 

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For pistol grip, your elbow is down and closer to your body. For RDB-S or -C, you need to raise your elbow and away from your body.

I have no problem with my RDB-C when following traditional hunting/battle rifle gripping technique.
54225
 
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