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Should be back in stock in a few weeks. You can sign up on the website to be notified as soon as they are. ThanksHow long before they're in stock again?
Should be back in stock in a few weeks. You can sign up on the website to be notified as soon as they are. ThanksHow long before they're in stock again?
Thanks, I'll do that. Meanwhile, your magwell is much nicer than that hideous KelTec add on. I'll need to change that also, more like immediately !!Should be back in stock in a few weeks. You can sign up on the website to be notified as soon as they are. Thanks
Parts arrived today, took less than 10 minutes to install them both, zero issues.Awesome! defintely let me know what you think!
Because I designed these parts off of a RDB17, if there are any fit issues with the RDB-C, please message me directly. I will make sure you are taken care of.
pics?Parts arrived today, took less than 10 minutes to install them both, zero issues.
It's much more comfortable to shoulder and settled into a cheek weld position for me much easier since I'm using a very low-mounted red dot. The convex profile is far superior as a universal-fit to KT's concave stock the RDB-C ships with. Also yay no more sling mount digging into my upper arm or collarbone depending on which side it's on!
Looking back I could have had it done in less than 5 minutes, I'd preemptively field-stripped the entire RDB-C in case there were fitment issues so I could document them easier.
For context: It look longer fidgeting with putting the captive pins back in fully into the RDB than I did getting your two parts installed, and my captive pins have ALWAYS been a 'tap them in' ridiculously snug fit so it wasn't anything to do with your parts.
LOP is almost a full 15mm SHORTER than a stock RDB-C, between 8mm-15mm depending on where you compare since the stock stock is concave versus the convex magpul pad that's included. Basically the front-most edge of the rubber pad on the stock RDB-C stock is dead lined up with the rear-most spot on your stock with the enhanced buttpad.
If I pick up a Magpul SL stock to hijack the pad from it'd end up reducing the LOP/OAL on the RDB-C by roughly a full inch total compared to stock it looks like.
I'll take some tomorrow/Sunday and update the post, sure!pics?
First thing to do is take it apart. Use the appropriate socket and hex wrench to remove the bottom screw through the qd stud. Pull the rubber buttpad off. Slide the plastic housing over the rear of the receiver. Reuse the factory screw in the top receiver hole, then hold the rubber buttpad in place as you install the screw and washer into the bottom receiver hole. Then reinstall the qd screw and washer/nut into the bottom buttpad hole. Done. Probably not a bad idea to use a little blue loctite on all your screwsThank you for the response, appreciate it. I was making it a harder task than it really was.
Thought for sure I was somehow supposed to get two screws into the buttpad.
...ah, the RDB-C doesn't have any screws on the back so I only have the one included screw holding it on, what's the size screw I should get for the upper hole if you know off-hand?Reuse the factory screw in the top receiver hole, then hold the rubber buttpad in place as you install the screw and washer into the bottom receiver hole.
Off hand I think it's an M4 6mm button head, but I'll have to confirm that when I get home tonight...ah, the RDB-C doesn't have any screws on the back so I only have the one included screw holding it on, what's the size screw I should get for the upper hole if you know off-hand?
Awesome, thanks for running the experiment. Two really quick questions, if you dont mind my asking: Does the new stock / cheek rest interfere with your thumb wrapping over the top of the C? And are there any functional issues involved in shortening the rifle (I assume it doesn't somehow interfere with ejection or anything)? Thanks!Finally had a facepalming "well duh" moment when I realized how I could easily show a comparison of stock RDB-C stock versus the DHD enhanced buttpad stock: Aligned the holes with some allen hex-keys and held my phone upside-down so the flash would be aligned properly versus the lens and avoid casting a shadow on the buttpad portion.
This shows very neatly the difference in profile and slight difference in length, so anyone that thinks the RDB-C's LOP is a little long this is a great fix.
View attachment 49992
Neither stock configuration extends far enough forward for my wrap-over thumb to touch them in normal rifle use, so no change there.Awesome, thanks for running the experiment. Two really quick questions, if you dont mind my asking: Does the new stock / cheek rest interfere with your thumb wrapping over the top of the C? And are there anh functional issues involved in shortening the rifle (I assume it doesn't somehow interfere with ejection or anything) ? Thanks!
Awesome. I'll hop on it when they're back in stock. Would love to see a full pic of your setup now!Neither stock configuration extends far enough forward for my wrap-over thumb to touch them in normal rifle use, so no change there.
Neither stock configuration affects the internals of the rifle at all (the proper screws properly tightened all stop just shy of intruding into the receiver) none of these changes affect operation either. The receiver has very tight tolerances for the bolt to travel down during cycling.
The DHD buttpad does stick a bit further forward towards (but not under) the ejection port; doesn't occlude it at all though so at most it will cause ejected rounds to bounce a bit less to the rear if shooting standing up. I couldn't tell any difference though cycling inert, magpul dummy, or the brief dawn trip to the shooting range just to verify everything worked fine, so that last part is more theoretical than noticable.
I updated the picture I posted on the 'RDP pictures' thread actually!Awesome. I'll hop on it when they're back in stock. Would love to see a full pic of your setup now!
Looks great. I dig the S foregrip look too.