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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey all,
I recently received my RDB raptor rail from Lucky Irishman and was hoping to attach it to my RDB-C. I had seen a pic of a "C" with the rail and thought it would be an easy install like a normal RDB. Turns out, things are just out of reach. Hoping I could get some suggestions.
http://imgdump4.novarata.net/image.uploads/13-12-2018/original-1a076ace7f30cf89cee0dfb29e4a837e.jpg Here's the original image of the "c" with a rail that inspired me.

Here's what I've found so far... 20190425_131025 (2).jpg 20190425_131059 (2).jpg 20190425_131112 (2).jpg 20190425_131408 (2).jpg 20190425_131414.jpg
It looks Like I should be able to file down the area that the rail is hitting and give it the room it needs. Any suggestions on what to do and what tools to use to do it are appreciated.
 

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If you're on FB, look up the Keltec RDB owners group, you might could find an answer there if nothing materializes here. I know the owner of Lucky Irishman is a member there, I'm not sure if he's here too.
 

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If you're on FB, look up the Keltec RDB owners group, you might could find an answer there if nothing materializes here. I know the owner of Lucky Irishman is a member there, I'm not sure if he's here too.
Yes, its Richard Murphy on FB. Lee Majors (yes, the 6 billion...man)here. I thinks he gets PM notifications from here. But He doesn't lurk here since he can't promote a product he manufactures per forum rules.
You should upload the pics to the thread rather than use a host. Using hosts, they'll be gone in a few weeks and the next guy wont benefit from the thread.
use "upload a file".
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yes, its Richard Murphy on FB. Lee Majors (yes, the 6 billion...man)here. I thinks he gets PM notifications from here. But He doesn't lurk here since he can't promote a product he manufactures per forum rules.
You should upload the pics to the thread rather than use a host. Using hosts, they'll be gone in a few weeks and the next guy wont benefit from the thread.
use "upload a file".
Thanks for the tip. First time I posted something here
 

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It was initially designed for the rdb17 so i guess the part is shaped a bit differently. it does look like you could either file the lower or just cut out or file that small part of the rail where it fouls.
 

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j, I wish I could help you but imjur is a spam trap. I can't even see your pictures without popups. please upload images to the thread!
 

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I'd love to see a longer version countoured for the RDB-C. Maybe a little more like the RDB Tactical prototype we still haven't seen.
 

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J, Yes, I would have to agree that a DIY job is your best option.
All you need is various grits of sand paper wrapped around various diameters of rods or pens and markers. Start removing material with an inside angle with the lightest grit that will cut enough to see progress. Then as you get close to the amount you need removed, graduate to the finer grits to a smooth finish. finish with a matching paint pen, which will probably be used to touch up other parts and scratches as well.

We all like to get what we pay for, but in this case, I say your fit issue is so minor its not worth sending it back. And its a KT, not a Winchester. If you use it, its gonna take on some scratches, dings and mods.
 

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Reply on Facebook I received from LI regarding the fit of the LI hand rail on an RDB-C Hunter:

Yes it will. It requires a little dremel work on the underside near the trigger guard but it's not visible unless you turn it upside down and if you're careful and use some touchup paint you'll never notice. The RDB-C has a wider plastic flare in front of the trigger guard than the standard rifle.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Reply on Facebook I received from LI regarding the fit of the LI hand rail on an RDB-C Hunter:

Yes it will. It requires a little dremel work on the underside near the trigger guard but it's not visible unless you turn it upside down and if you're careful and use some touchup paint you'll never notice. The RDB-C has a wider plastic flare in front of the trigger guard than the standard rifle.
Thanks for the confirmation! I'll get to work as soon as I have a free weekend and post results afterwards. Thanks all!
 

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I asked Rich and he explained:

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It's for a tensioning 1/4" long flat tip allen head set screw, threaded 6-32.

We originally thought we might need them if the hole wasn't snug enough but with the .01" interference fit on that silver internally-threaded standoff, it is pretty much exactly as I like it, although some people sometimes don't pre-oil it or try to hammer it in with the screws attached because they don't have a flat brass punch.

We toyed with the idea of drilling them 6.5mm which is .2557", then when you anodize them it takes them to .2547", or oversized .004-.005" but we don't know how loose that will leave it.

I have the MDR base chucked up right now to do this then anodize it again while we wait for the rails to be finished. When it gets back I'll put one of the silver standoffs in it and see how sloppy it is. If it's too much the small 5th hole set screw won't work. If it's snug enough to slide with a little oil by hand then starting to include the set screw again at $0.40 cents a piece would be worth it.

Trying to listen to our customers and make it easier to install while still guaranteeing tight lockup so it doesn't wobble like the factory plastic.

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