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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all...  I'm new here.

What would you say about the quality of recently manufactured Kel-Tecs, specifically the P32 and P3AT?  From elsewhere I've heard all sorts of things about breakages and jams and fluffs 'n' buffs, but the Kel-Tecs sure do seem popular.

How much shooting do you think they could take before they wear out?

What do you all think about them as far as their quality is concerned?

Would you say the average P32 or P3AT is reliable enough to trust w/o doing fluff'n'buff these days?

Also, if caliber wasn't an issue, which gun would you say is better all around between the P32 and P3AT?  Or is it pretty equal?

I've read the other thread in this section about p32/p3at reliabilty, but it seemed dated and I'm also interested in how it stacks up in other credentials too.
 

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I can't speak for everyone on this board, but I think the general consensus is:

* The new SG guns are much more likely to work right out of the box then the old FG one.

* Especially the P3AT. Many FG P3AT's were a gunsmith education getting them to work 100%.

* The newest slide finish (bluing) is way better then the old guns.

* P32's are more reliable then P3AT's, due I think to new shooters limp-wristing the more powerful .380. You have to use a firm hold for them to work right. They don't weigh enough to cycle reliably without your hand, arm, and locked wrist to push against.

* F&B is not necessary. Shooting 200 - 300 break-in rounds is.

* Proper lubrication, and cleaning is very important to getting & keeping them reliable.

* They can't ever wear out. KT has a lifetime Warranty and will keep rebuilding them as long as you keep wearing them out, forever.

* Some folks report firing several thousand rounds through a gun with no problems, and no rebuilds.

* KT should Lock-Tight ALL the extractor screws right from the factory. They don't. You should.

* Some bad slides have appeared lately, but are quickly replaced by the factory.

Hope this helps.


rcmodel
 

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rcmodel said it perfectly!
 

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+1. He said everything I was going to say and more! But Get the more powerful .380 and learn to shoot it w/o limp wristing.

Limp Wristing tips:

It is nearly impossible to limp wrist this gun from a very firm, push-pull grip:

1. Place strong hand on grip with finger alongside trigger guard.
2. Cup weak hand as if you were going to drink water from it.
3. Rotate weak hand 45 degrees toward your body.
4. Place palm against front of strong hand fingers, with thumbs nearly parallel.
5. Line up on target and push forward with strong hand while pulling back with weak hand.
This will lock your wrist and prevent limp wristing.

Single hand grip:

1. Line up on target.
2. strain hand forward as if you were trying to get the gun closer to the target.
This will lock your wrist and prevent limp wristing.

If you are using one of these grips, and you get malfunctions, it is NOT limp wristing, but the gun that is causing them.

Packer.
 

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GunCat,

Welcome to KTOG. I have recently acquired a P-32 that was used, but works like a charm. I ran approx 75-80 rounds thru it and was able to get some decent groups with it. I also had a P-11 and SU-16C that I bought new and never hardly had a problem with either of them. I traded the P-11 for the P-32, but I still own the SU. I am not worried about quality from Kel-Tec, besides with the lifetime warrenty why worry, they will fix it. I got the P-32 with the hopes that my wife and Mother-N-law will carry it. I have shoot the P-3AT and think the recoil is a little stout for a woman, not too bad for me as I'm use to alot of recoil. I guess it boils do to what caliber you prefer. Alot of guy's here carry the P-32 from what I hear. Here's a picture of my best group of the day, around 2 inches @ 10 yds. Good luck.






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