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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have long had to turn the gas to +4 or even fully tightened down. I always had problems with the bolt not traveling all the way forward to close and fully seat.

It works fine cycling manually with an empty magazine/empty gun.

Yes I use reloads. Yes they are fully sized and checked via a case gauge for OAL overall length and size.

I was getting some issues resolved with making sure the chamber was spotless. The next time at the range the problem continues. I get one or two fired rounds, and then the bolt will stop at between 1 and 5 inches from full travel.

Anyone else?

Possible solutions? Kel Tec Techs?

It is as if the spring is not sufficiently powerful. That is all that powers the bolt forwards. Am I missing something?
 

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I had a similar problem with some American Tactical target rounds, the bolt was 1-2 in from closing and I was on 2-3+ on gas setting. I did notice the neck of the spent brass was deformed. I chalked it up to the brand as another type went through without issues.
 

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Make sure the forward roll pin that holds the front of the bolt to the carrier is centered in the carrier.  Mine was out to the left, and the end of the pin was hanging up on the back edge of the carrier and causing the bolt to lock open.  A partial hangup here on the forward stroke could also rob the carrier of inertia and prevent it from traveling all the way forward(not enough energyleft after the stop to overcome the remaining drags in the process)...  I posted about this just after I got my RFB, I included a pic of where the pin is located, but I cannot find it.  If you want to see it, I can repost the pic tonight when I get back home...

So you have to close the gas vent to +4 to get the bolt to travel far enough to the rear to lock open on a empty mag?  Setting it at +5 or +6 and the action won't lock open on an empty mag?  

What handload recipe are you running?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ron I will check that out.

So you have to close the gas vent to +4 to get the bolt to travel far enough to the rear to lock open on a empty mag? Setting it at +5 or +6 and the action won't lock open on an empty mag?
Correct

Load recipe - I have been playing around with many boolits, but essentially all of them require near book maximum loads to get the gun to lock the magazine. I no longer start with starting loads, because I have not yet seen any signs of overpressure with any max loads.

I am NOT getting deformed brass at all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The roll pin was and remains centered.

To further test my theory that the ammo is not the problem but the spring or its action is I did this.

I held the rifle vertically and dropped the bolt release. The gun can barely close the bolt. When attempting this with a magazine loaded with 3 rounds, it moves about an inch. Something is not at all right!
 

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Yep, that is not right. With an empty in the extractors, and 4 in the ejection chute, mine closes with enough force to spit three of those empties in the chute, up and out of the ejection port...

If you takedown the rifle, and look inside the carrier channel, there are 2 short metal tubes welded to the inside of the carrier a few inches forward of the bolt. The recoil spring guide rods pass thru these tubes. As you push on that rear plate that extends past the rear end of the carrier channel, the 2 guide rods should move forward thru the welded tubes, and the springs should be compressed between the tubes and the rear plate(buffer plate) that the back end of the guides are connected to If one of those tubes has become disconnected from the carrier, and cannot compress the spring, you have cut your available spring force in half...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Just got off the phone with KT Tech.

My serial num (T079#)made him certain that my aluminum (I think) carrier cover is not shaped properly and is binding, thus more resistance. I have to send her back to mama for the second time!

It has never worked properly in my opinion, so I hope this fixes it.

Ron, I will check that issue you mentioned as well. Thanks.
 

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I have long had to turn the gas to +4 or even fully tightened down. I always had problems with the bolt not traveling all the way forward to close and fully seat.

It works fine cycling manually with an empty magazine/empty gun.

Yes I use reloads. Yes they are fully sized and checked via a case gauge for OAL overall length and size.

I was getting some issues resolved with making sure the chamber was spotless. The next time at the range the problem continues. I get one or two fired rounds, and then the bolt will stop at between 1 and 5 inches from full travel.

Anyone else?

Possible solutions? Kel Tec Techs?


It is as if the spring is not sufficiently powerful. That is all that powers the bolt forwards. Am I missing something?
Me to. First day cycled fine, but jammed on a round (steel poly coat Barnau). i cleared it but it would rub on something. I took it home, cleaned lubed and found a case still in the tray. I also noticed a bent lip on tray bent it back and it cycled ok. Next day with good brass it would jam on every round and I would have to push the calking handle forward to finish the cycle. A home I put a few snap caps in the mage and it would load the first round but stop half way forward when hand charged again. it seems to be failing when a round us pushing into the ejection tray. I’ll strip in down and see if the tray is misaligned,

This is my most expensive rifle, I know there is no perfect rifle but I would think that the number of problems should be the inverse in ratio to cost. I have 308s that are half the cost that are more reliable. I really wanted this gun to work, I chose it because it is $500 les then the Tavor 7, and the other Kel tec gun i own is great with few issues. But saving 500 is not so appealing when it doesn’t work.
 

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Me to. First day cycled fine, but jammed on a round (steel poly coat Barnau). i cleared it but it would rub on something. I took it home, cleaned lubed and found a case still in the tray. I also noticed a bent lip on tray bent it back and it cycled ok. Next day with good brass it would jam on every round and I would have to push the calking handle forward to finish the cycle. A home I put a few snap caps in the mage and it would load the first round but stop half way forward when hand charged again. it seems to be failing when a round us pushing into the ejection tray. I’ll strip in down and see if the tray is misaligned,

This is my most expensive rifle, I know there is no perfect rifle but I would think that the number of problems should be the inverse in ratio to cost. I have 308s that are half the cost that are more reliable. I really wanted this gun to work, I chose it because it is $500 les then the Tavor 7, and the other Kel tec gun i own is great with few issues. But saving 500 is not so appealing when it doesn’t work.
The other 308s you have most likely benefit from economy of scale (if they are semi auto)..Only keltec makes these..and this would be the cheapest of the availible 308 Bullpups..all of the cost more than the Rfb.

Did you adjust the gas when changing to your brass cased loads?.

Also..you can bend the ejection chute to more easy accept spent casings if it's casing problems not allowing a spent case in the chute.
 
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