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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, I got my new RDB the other day and I'm heading to the range for the first time the day after tomorrow - I'll be using 223 5.56x45 Ammo 62gr FMJ Wolf WPA Polyformance - my Glocks have gotten me into some bad maintenance habits, so I'm looking for some guidance about lube necessary for the 1st range trip, and whether or not the gas setting as it comes from the factory will be right with the ammo I'm using, or should I adjust it before shooting? Anything else?? Thanks in advance for your guidance!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the suggestion - I didn't notice that in the booklet that came with the gun - all I saw was a reference to not using "hand loads, reloads or re-manufactured ammunition, or foreign or military surplus ammunition" - the Wolf ammo I was planning to use is newly manufactured, not surplus.

Is the specific warning about steel cased ammo anywhere in the booklet, or is it just a recommendation?
 

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First clean your new RDB. Then clean it again. Check for anything in the bore. You would be surprised what is found in new barrels. Wipe it down and lubricate the bolt carrier. As for the ammo, it is foreign ammo. Personally, I choose to only use brass cased ammo. Take your manual with you and review the adjustment of the gas system. You may need to change the setting of the gas regulator. Other than that enjoy your new RDB. It's a fine shooting gun.

Read HBeretta's post here. It gives good advice for setting a new gun.

http://www.thektog.org/forum/f119/bolt-locking-up-rear-267134/
 

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When KTOG returns a repaired firearm, they include a note that includes...don't use steel cased ammo. I'll see if I can find a copy to post.



*EDIT*

I found it....this is printed on the bottom of the work orders that Kel Tec sends when returning firearms....

 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
I'm dis-assembling and oiling the gun prior to my first RANGE (not "rage) trip and can't seem to get the bolt out - I've got the firing pin out, but can't see how to get the cam pin out, so I can remove the bolt - anyone ???

UPDATE - duh, it just pulls out - I was looking for some kinda pin.

UPDATE - duh, and when you're re-assembling, make sure ya push the firing pin retaining pin ALL THE WAY IN - so ya can get the grip assembly and receiver assembly put back together without a lotta swear words and WTFs - the pins are, understandably, a bit stiff - having gone through the dis-assembly and re-assembly successfully, it is relatively simple - off to the range tomorrow !
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I was using the manual - nothing in there about simply pulling out the cam pin or pushing that firing pin retaining pin in all the way. FWIW, when I worked, I was a technical writer and IMHO, the manual can be improved - mayne I'll send my suggestions in to Kel Tec.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I'll be putting some kind of a red dot on my RDB, but one of the main reasons I purchased the gun is because of the bottom ejection - I can't blink my left eye and I don't like having a normal rifle on my left shoulder, especially a bullpup, because of the ejected casings and gas and other debris flying right in front of my face - the RDB should solve that problem nicely - but I'm still not sure how I'll shoulder the gun - what's the trick to change the charging handle to the opposite side (didn't see anything about that in the manual)? THANKS!
 

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Page 9 in the manual tells how to dis-assemble the RDB and take out the charging handle after you have removed the forearm. When you put the charging handle back in just put it in on the other side and then put the forearm back on. The charging handle will go in on either side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Now I see it - step 6 - I didn't remove the handguard when I was inspecting \ lubing the gun this evening. After shooting tomorrow, I may switch the charging handle - keep ya posted - thanks very much for the help.
 

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Now I see it - step 6 - I didn't remove the handguard when I was inspecting \ lubing the gun this evening. After shooting tomorrow, I may switch the charging handle - keep ya posted - thanks very much for the help.
the gun is simply designed and it's pretty impressive to be honest. the bolt is oiled during assembly. i didn't do anything to my gun first time out...bolt already had a light coat of oil. looked down the bore and it looked like a mirror. the gun runs very efficiently and not much cleaning is needed. i've got about a 1k rounds through my gun. i do clean my bore after every range session and inspect the bolt assembly, but it stays pretty clean. i'd recommend maybe a tiny amount of gun grease on each side of the bolt assembly housing that travels along the receiver rails.

again, the gun doesn't need much as i've only q-tip cleaned my bolt with hoppes at 500 rnds and lightly coated with oil. as for your gas settings, the adjustment dial has 20 clicks. the gun should be ready to go out of box but be sure to check your spent casings for a slight indentation which is referenced in the manual for proper operation. as you break the gun in you'll be able to back the gas off over time. i always check the casings from my first shots fired to see if i can get away with less gas. you could even back the gas off to where you can barely tell if there's a indentation on your spent casings although the manual specifies a slight indentation. again, i prefer to use less gas if i can get away with it. if you like to vary your ammo just keep an eye on spent casings. now if your casings look like the mouth is mangled or nearly crimped closed...you're over-gased. likewise, if you don't have enough gas your casings won't eject and will have a stoppage. anyway, enjoy your new rdb.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The gun performed well yesterday - a few misfeeds with steel-cased ammo, but I adjusted the gas setting and got it running at 100% - very easy recoil, comfortable to shoot, and as others have said, relatively simple to dis-assemble and clean. I'll have to look for information about mag recommendations - an AR mag I use with one of my AR's wouldn't lock into the magwell - aside from that minor mag issue, all good.
 

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an AR mag I use with one of my AR's wouldn't lock into the magwell - aside from that minor mag issue, all good.
Metal USGI type per chance? I believe that's the only kind some people have had issue with. Mine run (both new manufacture and surplus), but there are different brands/makers out there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks for the heads up.

One other thing I found was a really good )simple) uTube video that describes how to get the gas setting just right for different types of ammo. The video is for the RFB, but I think that the same process should work with an RDB - [ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5eD_C8J8Fkc"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5eD_C8J8Fkc[/ame]
 

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Thanks for the heads up.

One other thing I found was a really good )simple) uTube video that describes how to get the gas setting just right for different types of ammo. The video is for the RFB, but I think that the same process should work with an RDB - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5eD_C8J8Fkc
no it's not the same process...different system entirely. all you need to do is check your spent casings for a slight indentation on the RDB.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Talked with a guy at KelTec this morning about the gas adjustment stuff - the RDG is different from the RFB, but mainly in the number of adjustment points - the RFBs have about 40, and the RDBs have about 20 - but, he confirmed that the process shown in the video should work for an RDB - I was curious since I didn't know how much of an indentation there needed to be in the end of the spent case.
 

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Yeah, similar concept in that video can be applied to the RDB (i.e. adjust gas incrementally until lockback occurs, add an extra click or two for reliability).

The other indication being what the manual says: "a minor dent at
the mouth of the casing indicates proper case ejection."

I'd say use both techniques in conjunction to confirm (especially if new to the rifle and not sure what "a minor dent" means in the RDB's case).
 
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