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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First off newbee to the site. I have had my gen2  p3at for about a year now and I ordered a fobus holster so I am concerned about the rust issue. Has anyone powder coated their slide? I know of duracoat and durabake. I think powder coating will last a lot longer and look good but I am concerned if the powder coating is too thick and will hinder the slide from operating correctly. Does anyone know about this?
 

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I've personally never seen powder coating used in a moving parts application.

Do you know how well powder coated finishes are rated for wear on moving parts.

Cerakote and Duracoat would be the closest thing I've ever seen that would compare to a heat cured powder coat finish.

Maybe you can do a couple searches, I did a search on google and found this

http://forum.caswellplating.com/powder-coating-questions/180-powder-coating-firearms.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I talked to a powder coater today and showed him what I wanted done and asked him about problems. He assured me that there will be no problems according to him there is plenty of clearances. The price was a little high. $75 if I wanted it done now and $30 if I wait till someone else uses that color. I want to see how much a stainless or hc slide will set me back before I do it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks alot Crackerken! Thats a great deal and we know 100% it will work with no issues. I am going to jump on that. I wonder how it would look with this set up.



 

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It's going to look very good. :cool:

I don't have any rust, but I do have some holster wear through the blue. Considering going the same route. Mine would be nickel over OD. I assume the nickel holds up to the holster wear, anybody know for sure?
 

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jcp said:
I don't have any rust, but I do have some holster wear through the blue. Considering going the same route. Mine would be nickel over OD. I assume the nickel holds up to the holster wear, anybody know for sure?
No perceptible wear on mine. Been carrying mine all the time for about a year in the pocket.
 

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I have a parked slide over black grip. If I eventually have any finish issues with the slide, I'm going to have it nickeled too. I think the parkerized finish is going to last quite well, but if it doesn't, the nickel plate deal will be my choice. My second choice would be the stainless or titanium colored Duracoat by GoldenLoki.
 

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I like using the Norrell Molyresin for finishing gun parts.  It can be sprayed on with a cheap airbrush or pump up sprayer, and it only takes an hour to cure in your oven.  The stuff doesn't scratch and it's self-lubricating and doesn't gall.  You can check out www.molyresin.com f you're still looking for more options.  There aren't as many choices of colors as Duracoat, but they have just about any normal color that you would use for firearms parts.  They also have an product that cures at room temperature that's handy for platics that may deform under the temperatures that are used to oven cure the regular product.
 

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Having watched the Tutell's on OC Chopper fight powder coat build-up on motorcycle parts for several years now, I don't think it has any application on closely fitted gun parts.

If you have to drill it out of the bolt holes on a motorcycle fender before the 5/16" plow bolts will fit? No thank you.

rc
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
That's what I thought RC. But supposedly they can spray in in thinner coats. I am not taking the chance and sending mine to fuselier and going the hc route. Kel-tec emailed me back and said they will trade my slide for one in hc for $75 but this guy wants $37.50 for my slide and mag.
 

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Has anyone tried the Blue Wonder Gun Bluing Kit sold at Cabella's. It's on sale for $19.99-reg34.99
There is a youtube link I found on the product that shows a gunsmith applying the process in minutes and of course it looks great when finished. Hoax ? My P3At is losing it bluing due to holster wear. Any info would be greatly appreciated.  
 

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No cold blue I have ever tried over the last 50 years will stay on very much longer then the surface prep takes to do it properly.

By it's very nature, it can't penetrate as deeply or build up the oxidation thickness that hot blue can.

rc
 
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