PMR 30 Disassembly

Discussion in 'PMR-30' started by KTGuy, Nov 26, 2012.

  1. KTGuy

    KTGuy Active Member

    There must be someone out there who has completely disassembled a PMR 30 and can share clues about the process beyond basic take down for cleaning purposes. I have successfully removed and replaced the mag catch components, so I can help with that. I'm hoping to see a process leading to replacement of internal components such as feed ramp, trigger components, slide stop brazement, firing pin, receiver, ejectors, etc. Share your experiences (including failures and successes). Knowing what NOT to do is pretty darn valuable. :eek:
     
  2. KTGuy

    KTGuy Active Member

    Removing and Replacing the Mag Catch Assembly

    The procedure for removing the Mag Catch Assembly:
    1. Remove the magazine, clear the weapon.
    2. Remove the assembly pin, set aside.
    3. Remove the slide assembly, set aside.
    4. Remove 1 lower slide cover screw (185) from the mag catch axis (185) at the heel of the grip assembly. (requires two hex keys, one on each slide cover screw).
    5. Push Mag Catch Axis (198) out through heel of grip.
    6. The Mag Catch (195) and the Mag Catch Spring (196) will drop from the grip.

    The procedure for replacing the Mag Catch Assembly:
    1. Bring the ends of the Mag Catch Spring (196) together and secure with a 1/8" long piece of 1/8" round clear plastic tubing (use this as a home made "rubber band" to secure the spring ends close together).
    2. Insert the Mag Spring into the rounded cavity in the Mag Catch with the spring ends facing upward towards the receiver, then guide the Mag Catch into place (Mag Catch thumb button toward the outside of the grip) and insert the Mag Axis pin (with one screw left attached from earlier removal) into the hole in the grip base and through the hole in the Mag Catch.
    3. Insert the 2nd slide cover screw into the opposite side of the grip base and lightly tighten into the Mag Catch Axis.
    4. With a long thin X-Acto blade, reach into the bottom of the mag catch area and cut the home made clear plastic tubing holding the spring ends together. The opposing spring ends will separate and press against the grip and mag catch.
    5. Remove the cut piece of the home made clear plastic tubing.
    6. Press and release the Mag Catch Button to see if it works correctly.
    7. Reassemble the slide assembly, install assembly pin and magazine.
     
    Last edited: Nov 26, 2012

  3. 1hndgn

    1hndgn New Member

    302
    Sep 29, 2010
    i'd stay clear of doing any internal work, especially if a new gun.. let the factory take care of any issues.. sure beats voiding a lifetime warranty.. kel tech has beat their estimate for return every time for me. plus get any and all available free upgrades.

    just not worth the risk to me.

    my .02, respectfully
    cheers
     
  4. KTGuy

    KTGuy Active Member

    I respect your opinion and I'm sure a great many owners share your opinion. I started this thread because I'm interested in posts from owners who will share their actual disassembly/reassembly knowledge and experience. I'm hoping those who choose to work on their own guns will share knowledge with those who would like to learn how to remove and replace parts in their guns. Knowing what NOT to do is pretty darn valuable, including not voiding a warranty as you mentioned, so thank you for that. With the greatest respect for you and others who share your opinion, please post specific knowledge or experience in this thread. Thanks so much. :)
     
    Last edited: Nov 26, 2012
  5. AO

    AO Well-Known Member

    Well I've had no trouble with my PMR so far..so I haven't had a need to take anything apart..if it aint broke dont fix it...:rolleyes:
     
  6. KTGuy

    KTGuy Active Member

    Well heck, I thought it was worth a shot to see if anyone had any technical component replacement experience to share. Since I have owner paperwork and a warranty, I'll follow the sage advice offered and send it in and see what Kel-Tec will do for me. Thanks guys. :cool:
     
  7. AO

    AO Well-Known Member

    Well I'm sure someone has done stuff..give em time to chime in..I was just saying that as of yet, I've not needed to.
     
  8. KTGuy

    KTGuy Active Member

    Ok, I'm in "holding mode" to see if anyone chimes in. I'm glad to hear your gun is working good. Ericka said to try buffing the tiny metal feed ramp on the barrel and see if that improves things, so it's out to the shop for me! :D
     
  9. AO

    AO Well-Known Member

    I did a bit of a "fluff and buff" to my gun when it was fairly new..do it to most of my guns...don't want a hickup when I'm not ready..so... been there done that..
     
  10. KTGuy

    KTGuy Active Member

    A little Dremel work with some red rouge, and the tiny feed ramp looks much smoother and seems to load better. I'll have to range test it to be sure, but I think it's an improvement.
     
  11. KTGuy

    KTGuy Active Member

    I have noticed that the rear rim of the ammo seems to get hung up on a ridge on the upper receiver area. I pull the slide back a little bit and the round pops up and feeds into the chamber. That metal ridge is a semi-circle elevation or tool mark on the upper receiver. Does your PMR have that ridge?
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Nov 30, 2012
  12. KTGuy

    KTGuy Active Member

    Removing and replacing the PMR-30 firing pin

    Getting to the firing pin (118) is quick and easy. Replacement may prove a little harder. Remove the assembly pin (111) the slide assembly (552) the recoil spring guide (160) the barrel block (151) the buffer (153) and the barrel (104). Set the grip assembly aside. Remove the 4 hex screws on the rear slide cover (154). Be careful when you pry the rear slide cover from the slide so you don't lose the tiny extractor spring (184) that fits into a space next to the trigger beneath the slide cover (the PMR-30 Pistol Parts Diagram in the owner's manual indicates 2 extractor springs, but there is only 1 extractor spring). At this point, the firing pin MAY be able to be removed from the rear, but it will probably require removing the 2 extractor axis pins (181) to allow removal. Give it a look. Mine didn't want to come out easily (would have required prying up on it and I thought it might bend or break, so I didn't remove it). If yours is already broken, it will probably remove more easily. The new firing pin (118) MIGHT slip right into place, but again will likely require removing and replacing the extractor axis pins. If you anticipate trying this procedure you should probably order 2 extractor axis pins and an extractor spring when you order the firing pin. Post your experience if you replace your firing pin
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Nov 30, 2012
  13. AO

    AO Well-Known Member

    Nice write up KT..
     
  14. KTGuy

    KTGuy Active Member

    I really would appreciated goixiz (goixiz does really great photography) to supply a photo of post #11 above so I can determine if there is a difference in the indicated area. Then I will know if it's safe to buff out that raised area or not.
     
  15. Chief_Sapulpa

    Chief_Sapulpa New Member

    125
    Sep 28, 2012
    Green Country OK
    FWIW, post # means nothing to us Android Mobile users.
     
  16. KTGuy

    KTGuy Active Member

    My apologies. I'm from another century. I think I figured out what FWIW means (For What It's Worth?) but I have no idea what an Android Mobile user is (a cell phone?). I'll google it. I googled Chief Sapulpa - interesting bit of history there.
     
    Last edited: Dec 1, 2012
  17. Chief_Sapulpa

    Chief_Sapulpa New Member

    125
    Sep 28, 2012
    Green Country OK
    Hello KTGuy, I'm from that other century/ generation as well but I feel I've been dragged into the new age by need for sustenance.
    Yes Android is smart phone operating system like Windows. While I despise it outdoors its a handy tool indoors.
    The ktog.org Android app is nice but does not display the full website data such as post numbers.
     
  18. 1A2KEY601

    1A2KEY601 Active Member Supporter

    343
    Oct 15, 2012
    Minnesota
    At this point, the firing pin MAY be able to be removed from the rear, but it will probably require removing the 2 extractor axis pins (181) to allow removal. Give it a look. Mine didn't want to come out easily (would have required prying up on it and I thought it might bend or break, so I didn't remove it). If yours is already broken, it will probably remove more easily.

    KTGuy ... As A.O. said above - nice write up. My firing pin was broken in 3 pieces I am looking at the online parts manual & the paper one in front of me - neither one show the small metal block that the axis pins (181) go through & into, holding the left & right extractors (183 & 184) that small metal block sits above the the tip of the firing pin & once the axis pins are removed with a 1/16 inch pin punch the firing pin can be removed. I did it once, not sure I would do it again - searched for one of the pins(181) down on the floor for about 20 minutes after it went flying trying to insert back in place. You can not get the firing pin out from under that small metal block otherwise. So for me, if the firing pin ever breaks again - back to Kel-Tec it will go.
    Two broken take down pins & now the 3rd one is of the newer design.
     
  19. KTGuy

    KTGuy Active Member

    Firing Pin Replacement

    Getting to the firing pin (118) is quick and easy. Replacement may prove a little harder. Remove the assembly pin (111) the slide assembly (552) the recoil spring guide (160) the barrel block (151) the buffer (153) and the barrel (104). Set the grip assembly aside. Remove the 4 hex screws on the rear slide cover (154). Be careful when you pry the rear slide cover from the slide so you don't lose the tiny extractor spring (184) that fits into a space next to the trigger beneath the slide cover (the PMR-30 Pistol Parts Diagram in the owner's manual indicates 2 extractor springs, but there is only 1 extractor sping). Caution about losing tiny parts: Punch out the 2 axis pins (181) with a 1/16" punch and remove the small metal block (lid) that sits above the tip of the firing pin and holds the left and right extractors (183 & 184) and now you can remove the firing pin. Assembly is in reverse order. If you anticipate trying this procedure you should probably order 2 extractor axis pins and 2 extractor springs when you order the firing pin because they are hard to find when they go flying.

    Many thanks to 1A2KEY601, KTOG member from Minnesota for his assistance with the last half of this post
     
  20. goixiz

    goixiz New Member

    143
    Jan 9, 2012
    Mine has the ridge initially but i polished it out.
    The ridge i have is a curved centered on the part where as your ridge comes from both sides and has a point in the middle that is probably not favourable when dealing with failure to feed.

    PS
    Personally i think most failure to feed is caused by the magazine
    1. Magazine not fully seated in the cavity (loose or the catch is not placing the mag in the proper location)
    2. The metal "beak" ramp should be longer and wider
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Dec 2, 2012