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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
:( Reading the dis assembly instructions, the second part indicates that you "push the barrel back", then pull the slide off. I'm not clear what is meant by pushing the barrel back. I've removed the pin and nothing happens. Any help out there for us more challenged people?
 

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Well, this is not the P3AT forum, but I will try to help.

You need to open the slide slightly to take pressure off the pin from the barrel locking cam pushing against it.

Once the pin is out, there is nothing else holding the slide & barrel on the frame.

It will slide right off of the front of the frame / grip easily.
In fact it will fly off and smack you in the face if you are not holding on to it.

If it doesn't, push / pull harder.

rc
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
:) Thanks for the help. I had "rip" the slide off as it was that hard to remove. Unfortunately, I put a nice scratch in the Michale Savage Freedom addition slide getting the pin out. Anyway its back together and all cleaned after a box at the range. Shot great. Sorry, I'm new to this site and didn't see a specific P3at section. Sure I'll find it. Thanks again.
 

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Ouch... shame about that scratch. :(
 

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Mine isn't a freedom addition but I scratched the slide taking the pin out the first time also. The instructions show using the bottom of a shell casing like there is enough room to get that under the lip of the pin  [smiley=angry.gif] Now I just use a knife edge but carefully.
 

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with the unload pistol in the left hand, thumb at the muzzle, little finger around the grip

While the barrel side is in battery and there is the recoil spring force on the assembly pin, use finger nail to raise the head to have the every slight gap.

NOW, while the recoil spring force hold the assembly pin off from the slide, FORCE the rim of a .380ACP under it so that the rim is tangental to the side and the pin head is bottom dead center.

right hand: with the thumb on the bullet and the forefinger pushing the base hard in to the assembply pin, put a slight force on the bullet so that the rim begins to lift the pin.

NOW, using the left thumb, press the muzzle to push back the slide to take recoil spring force off of the assembly pin and increase the rotational force of the right thumb to remove the pin
 

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I always push the slide all the way back to where it gets thinner and that gives me plenty of room to slide the lip of the case under the pin. Pops out no problem.
 

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use finger nail to raise the head to have the every slight gap.

No fingernails here. They get to dirty at work so I keep really short.

I always push the slide all the way back to where it gets thinner and that gives me plenty of room to slide the lip of the case under the pin

Aha  [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
 

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goodbrewing said:
I always push the slide all the way back to where it gets thinner and that gives me plenty of room to slide the lip of the case under the pin. Pops out no problem.
+1 on this one.
 

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After noticing that I put a small scratch in the slide the very first time I changed my methodology. I now slide a bit of masking tape under the pin before removing the pin. The masking tape has prevented any subsequent scratching.


Take care...
 

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after putting a small scratch on my slide with a casing, i starting using a large plastic drywall anchor.  after about 20 to 30 uses, the anchor becomes too worn and i switch it out.  it works really well for me. i tried to find a photo of the type i use:

 
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