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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a P3AT that I purchased in 2005, serial #HM???. From the information I have found in the forum, I believe it is a 2nd generation with the flat top slide and flat extractor spring. A problem recently developed and I have been researching this group in an attempt to identify and repair the issue myself rather than sending the gun back to KelTec via costly overnight express.

The last time I took the gun out to shoot, the trigger would pull all the way to the frame and not release the hammer. If I looked at the hammer it was all the way to the rear and would return to the front cocked position as I released the trigger. I field stripped, cleaned and lubricated the weapon which helped to a degree but the problem still occurs about one time out of twenty on average.

I have pressed on the trigger pin with a punch but it does not appear to have slipped. Any ideas on other things to check?
 

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I don't think it's the trigger pin. Mine moved out of place once and the trigger would go slack at times, the hammer wouldn't move at all.

If you do end up sending it to the mothership you don't have to pay for some crazy shipping. That's just company policy with most shipping companies. I sent a firearm back to another company for repair and I didn't overnight it. I also didn't tell them what it was but I did insure it for the replacement cost. I think I paid around $20 or less.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
No change in ammo--FMJ
The slide is going fully into battery
I will pull it apart this weekend and check for wear especially in the area of the trigger bar and hammer block.
Will report back if I find anything
 

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No change in ammo--FMJ
The slide is going fully into battery
I will pull it apart this weekend and check for wear especially in the area of the trigger bar and hammer block.
Will report back if I find anything
You don't happen to have a spare trigger bar to toss
in there, to check that out?
 

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I'll let others who have been paying attention to such matters chime in, but I seem to recall a tightening of law sometime a few years back making the penalty severe for shipping "machine parts" and not notifying the shipper of the gun.

If you have a relationship with a local FFL, they can ship via US Mail for probably $10. The gun would be returned to them and you pick it up.

What you describe certainly sounds like the trigger pin has backed out, but if you have ruled that out for sure, look at the trigger bar mechanism. Let us know what it turns out to be.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Some may choose to ship a firearm without notifying the carrier, but I would choose not to. While the chances of fines or imprisonment might be low, just the arrest and or conviction would have wide reaching consequences when it comes to my concealed carry permit and C&R FFL. I am not willing to take the risk.

The ATF website states: A nonlicensee may ship a firearm by a common or contract carrier to a resident of his or her or her own State or to a licensee in any State. A common or contract carrier must be used to ship a handgun. In addition, Federal law requires that the carrier be notified that the shipment contains a firearm or ammunition, prohibits common or contract carriers from requiring or causing any label to be placed on any package indicating that it contains a firearm and requires obtaining written acknowledgement of receipt.
[18 U.S.C. 922(a)(2)(A), 922(a)(5), 922(e) and (f); 27 CFR 478.30 and 478.31]
 

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Aside from criminal penalty, if the pistol went missing in transit and
you filed a claim with UPS/FedEx for a lost (undeclared) firearm, they'd
probably tell you to go pound sand.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
I have only field stripped and oiled the P3AT before, so today I completely disassembled it (except the trigger and trigger pin) to see what is going on with it. It is quite a simple firearm and easy to work on. I am attaching some pictures of what I found.

On the top side of the frame, there was a small burr that I was already aware of and I cleaned it up. I don't think it had anything to do with the problem I was having.

On the bottom side of the frame adjacent to the hammer I found another burr. I also cleaned this one up. I also don't think this caused any issue.

Examining the trigger bar, I found a worn circular area and a small rough patch as shown in the picture. I left the circular area alone and smoothed up the rough patch. I plan to order a new trigger bar. I also noted some waviness on one surface of the hammer block and plan to replace that also.

Also I noted that the area of the trigger bar is difficult to clean without removing the frame from the grip which I have never done in the eleven years I have owned this weapon. Although regularly cleaned and oiled, the trigger bar appears to function better when the area behind the trigger bar is clean and coated with a moderate application of grease.

After final reassembly I tested using snap caps and racking the slide. I did not have any malfunction like before. The trigger seemed to break much crisper. It will be next weekend before I have an opportunity to take it to the range for testing.
 

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The burr in the first picture is common, I believe the casings can hit there during ejection.

It sounds like you may have taken care of the problem already but a new trigger bar sure won't hurt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Just a quick followup. I took the repaired P3AT to the range this morning and test fired it with 50 rounds of ball ammo and 25 rounds of hollow point and had no failures at all. I feel confident that the problem is resolved. With normal field stripping, cleaning and lubrication, I think the trigger bar area tends to get dirty over a period of time. It is probably beneficial to remove the frame from the grip on occasion to clean the trigger bar area and lubricate with a light amount of quality grease. Even though the gun is functioning properly, I do plan to replace the trigger bar due to the small round wear mark as shown in the prior photo.
 
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