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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
About 30 rounds into a range session, I could no longer pull the trigger back far enough for the p32 to fire. It was as though something was blocking it from being pulled all the way back, though I managed to get a single dry fire while fiddling with it at the range. I was using PMC Bronze, which accounts for most of the ~1k rounds I've put through it since I bought it (used). However, in the last 100-200 rounds before this session, I did a couple of new things:
  1. Installed +1 magazine extensions
  2. Installed the Galloway reduced strength hammer spring
  3. Fired a box of 50 Sellier & Bellot FMJs, which are loaded hotter.
When I got it home, I took it apart to look at things. I had to pry the fire control unit out of the frame with more force than usual, and once it popped out a small piece of shaved plastic popped out. Nothing looked wrong, so I put it back together and function checked it and everything worked fine. Today at the range, another 70 rounds of PMC Bronze cycled flawlessly.

Has anyone seen anything like this before? Obviously the piece of shaved plastic is probably the source of the problem, but I don't know where it came from. I should have inspected the frame for excess wear when I took it apart to see where the plastic came from. I'll get around to doing that when I clean it next.

I'd like to know why the trigger was blocked, to make sure it won't happen again. My money is on either the hotter S&B rounds causing excess wear, especially given that it's an older gen 1, or I did something stupid when I installed the new spring. But it's a pretty straightforward install process, so I'm at a loss for what that could do.

Any ideas?
 

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So why did you feel the need to change the hammer spring? Did the original one break? Why put in a 'reduced weight hammer spring' in the first place, do you want light strikes?

I'm going to give it to you straight, whatever you think, good or bad, that's up to you.

Gun owners are sometimes their own worst enemies. They get sold a bill of goods from aftermarket parts companies that convince them SOMEHOW they just absolutely NEED to unnecessarily replace perfectly good parts with something else. KelTec spent tens of thousands of dollars engineering, manufacturing and testing their guns, so tearing it apart on a garage workbench and swapping out parts isn't going to improve anything about it. Still, they feel they can 'do a better job' than the manufacturer.

Then the crying starts...and we've all seen it across the various internet gun boards, time and time and time again:

'This thing is a piece of junk'
'It doesn't work right'
'I need to send it back'
'I don't know what happened'

Well, it worked fine until it got all jacked up. This is exactly like the low riders who install different steering components and hydraulics on their cars, bounce the front end ten feet in the air and then wonder just WHY the tires went flying off into the crowd...

Now, let us begin....Did you happen to pull the trigger while you had the slide off? That's always a no-no and on some of the older P32 models I think when the hammer went forward it would break off some plastic crosspiece in the grip, which could have caused the jam.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Now, let us begin....Did you happen to pull the trigger while you had the slide off? That's always a no-no and on some of the older P32 models I think when the hammer went forward it would break off some plastic crosspiece in the grip, which could have caused the jam.
This may be it. I tried to let the hammer down gently while I pulled the trigger once, and it got away from me a bit. Do you know where the crosspiece is located? With just the slide off I couldn't see anything that looked out of place or broken.
 

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This may be it. I tried to let the hammer down gently while I pulled the trigger once, and it got away from me a bit. Do you know where the crosspiece is located? With just the slide off I couldn't see anything that looked out of place or broken.
IF that is what happened (and I'm not even sure it was the P32 that had it, may have been the PF9) then don't worry about it. The piece was/is unnecessary, and was from the molding process, IIRC.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hmm, it could be the trigger pin. Another possibility is that I might have shaved a bit off the back pin when I tapped it in. It was pretty tight. This seems most likely to me at the moment. I'll take a close look at the pins too when I get it apart.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I think we were all wrong, except for the part where everyone guessed something went wrong when I changed the hammer spring. I have it apart now, and see nothing broken or shaved or ground down on the frame or on the pins. I think I threw away the piece I found in it last time, but I found another piece that looks very similar to it this time, wedged between the fire control unit and the frame near the back pin. It was very thin, so I was able to put everything back together, but that explains why the back in, but also why it was so tight. Instead, I think the plastic pieces where shaved off the little plastic piece held in the bottom of the grip where the hammer spring connects. When I take the pin + spring out of it, and can see a chewed up section of plastic there. My guess is that years of the hammer spring rubbing on that piece shaved a couple bits of plastic off, and when I changed the hammer spring it broke loose and fell where it shouldn't. (While I only have ~1000 rounds through it, I bought it used).

I'll get pics posted up later. Both of the second piece of plastic I found, and of the where I think it came from. Thanks for the help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hahaha, nope, I was right with my last guess. I looked closer at the piece of plastic debris and where I thought it came from, and it didn't quite make sense. They didn't look like they went together, and I couldn't figure it out. Eventually I shrugged my shoulders and put it all back together, and wouldn't you know, after I tapped the back pin in I could see another piece of plastic stuck between the back of the frame and the fire control unit. That dang pin! The pins looked fine because they were shaved smooth, but you can see the marks on the shaved off pieces from the tapping. This time I paid attention to how thick the pins were and put the thinner one in the back slot, and this time no pin shaving. Again, I'll post up pics later. Probably after my cleaning session. I'm thinking that the S&Bs had a role to play in the original malfunction, since they probably helped that bit of plastic work its way into an area where it disrupted the trigger. They did feel a lot snappier. But perhaps it would have eventually happened anyway with the softer U.S. loads.

Phew, I'm glad I know now, and that the thing isn't just spontaneously disintegrating on me.
 

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During reassembly, put the hammer spring and catch (part 279) back into position in the bottom of the grip before driving in your frame pins, this will better ensure the aluminum frame stays seated all the way down inside the plastic grip, and if you find one end of the frame pin is smaller, install that smaller end first, the pins shouldn't shave off during installation.

55467
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Setting the hammer spring catch first probably would have helped, at least today and after it malfunctioned. I'm not sure whether I set the spring catch first when I initially put the spring in. I always inserted the smaller end of the pins in first though.

Pics of the two shaved pieces:
55469
55470
 

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The roundness of the pieces leads me to think that they were originally part of the hammer spring catch.

Either that or....
55471


:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
No, it's definitely from the pin. I spent a good 15 minutes trying to line up one of those pieces with the hammer spring catch to figure out where it came from, and it just didn't match up. Then when I put it all back together, before I put the rear pin in, there was nothing between the fire control unit and the back of the frame. Then after I tapped the pin in, I could see a thin piece of plastic wedged between them. In exactly the same place as the piece I had pulled out when I initially took it apart. Now I don't have the original piece of plastic I found after the malfunction to compare, but I recall it looking very similar to the two I posted.

Also, don't read too much into the shape of those pieces. Being wedged between the frame and the fire control unit twisted and kinked them a bit.
 

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Sorry this happened to you, but happy to hear that it didn't cause a bigger problem (ND, etc.).

Stuff like that is why I just leave the innards as-is and get used to the trigger pull with practice. It wasn't so bad that a new spring was necessary, was it? I have a M&P Bodyguard with a much worse trigger, but I just practice with it and assume I won't be shooting 100 yard targets with it.
 

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I would tear the whole thing apart and check the holes in both the plastic grip and the aluminum frame where the pins go through for out-of-round or burrs, anything that can shave off a slice of the pins.
 

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I have seen KelTec frames with the pin holes beveled. If there are any beveled holes, start the frame pins from that side. You also might consider getting some new frame pins from KelTec. It sounds like a whole lot of shaving was going on, and your pins might be out of spec now. While you're at it, a set or two of recoil springs and a polymer guide rod might be a good idea. Their parts are generally inexpensive, and adding a few maintenance parts will justify the postage.

I wouldn't recommend the steel guide rod unless you are using extra strong recoil springs to handle stout handloads.

buzzsaw
 
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