Hello Everyone, I know the manual says not to dry-fire the pistol. Sometimes though, we're not aware of this, or we are but dry fire for some other reason. A few questions then (all questions pertaining to dry-firing mean dry-firing with an empty chamber or without a snap-cap): 1. Do you have a 1st or 2nd generation p-3at? 2. How many times have you dry-fired your p-3at (approximately)? 3. Has the firing pin been broken? If so, at approximately how many dry-fires? 4. If it has been broken, did Kel-Tec replace the firing pin for free? 5. If the firing pin hasn't been broken, how is the pistol functioning? Thanks in advance for the responses! HGWT
1st and 2nd gens are the same. It does not break the firing pin - it drives the firing pin into the firing pin retaining screw reaking havoc on the screw until it no longer retains the pin. Pin then comes at you at a high rate of speed and into your eye; or maybe sticks into back of primer. KT will likely fix it as they have generally have been pretty good at just about everything. Even things that would not/should not happen if owners actually read the manual like they are told to do so before handling the weapon. -Scott
They do exist. I am not sure what the search words are, but search is your friend. I am guessing packer had something to do with them but can't say for sure. Use the and I am sure you will come up with something. I'd make sure "retaining screw" as part of my search term as I am trying to remember what I saw. And there is also the chance that someone who remembers where they are will post here too. -Scott
A nearly identical post answered by 2PP (yes there is a picture) http://www.ktog.org/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1199334561/0 The dry fire rule applies to KTs across the board. I recently read somewhere that KT is using harder screws but someone mentioned the possibility of damaging the firing pin instead of the screw as a result.
I'm one of the guys who has many dry fires on the gun - all by mistake. It seems like when I'm practicing at the range, I'll always lose count of the rounds fired. I have a set of snap caps, but my dry fires really only happen at the range. Do you guys think it would be worth it to disassemble that part of the gun and replace the extractor screw?
You don't HAVE to disassemble the gun to replace this screw. (Part # 63) Just dryfire, (Yes, I'm serious.) to drop the hammer down. This will hold the FP in place if you don't subsequently move the slide. Now just heat the screw with soldering iron or heat gun/hair dryer to loosen the Loctite. Then you can remove the screw and the extractor, replace both if desired, and reinstall. KT Service: 1-800-515-9983. Might as well get a new extractor and spring while you are at it. This link is for a PF9, but it's similar: http://www.ktog.org/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1176553013#1 Packer.
Thanks Packer. Honestly I didn't know it was that screw we were talking about. What does it protrude into the path of the firing pin just enough so when a gun is dry fired, it smashes into it due to the additional travel?
Yep! The screw is just intended to keep the FP from exiting to the rear. (And hold in the extractor.) With a cartridge or snap cap in place, the BACK of the screw is not touched by the high forward force of the FP. The FRONT part of the screw DOES get hit, but that is on the weaker rebound after the force is dissipated into the primer. Packer.
Thanks for the explaination! Would you recommend that I get replacement screws from KT, or just get one of the correct size and thread from the hardware store?
Get it from KT. The wrong screw can cause serious problems. You can't BUY a screw of the correct hardness and length. KT parts will be in your mailbox 3 -4 days later. Maybe Saturday if you call right now. Packer.
I took out the buttonhead and it was somewhat similar to this: http://www.ktog.org/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1199334561/0 And that was after 4 dry-fires. Has anyone had their buttonhead screws break on them? If yes, after how many dry fires and what happened?
So...other than using a snap cap to dry fire the weapon to decock the hammer, is there no other safe way to decock the hammer after the slide has been racked? I would be concerned about leaving the hammer cocked over extended amounts of time in storage = weak spring.
New materials springs are made of do not degrade under pressure the way the springs of old did. BTW , don't most who carry a 1911 carry 'cocked 'and locked ? So what would be the difference in a 1911 hammer spring and a P3
Some one can correct me if I am wrong, but springs do not wear out from being left in one position. They will "wear" out due to lots of use, stretching and compressing over and over again. My P3AT's hammer has always been cocked hammer back since the day I bought it because unless I have taken it apart for a cleaning, there is always 1 in the chamber and a full mag in the mag well because I am carrying it, nearly 24/7. Addressing the springs wearing and the dry firing, I have run over 2,000 rounds through this baby, and other than tightening the extractor screw once with locktite, have never had a single problem or replaced a single part. With that being said, I probably have dry fired without snapcaps between 50-100 times, mostly at the end of a mag when I lose round count during practice at the range. If I am intentially dry firing for practice, I always use snap caps. Hope this helps, moparrman74 BTW: my 1911 is always cocked and locked as well
