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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2nd range session after getting the new P-3AT back from the mother ship. When sent in, it had an equal mix of FTF and FTE and LOTS of both. They "polished feed ramp, replaced extractor, test fired". My first range trip had NO FTF, 1 FTE at around round #75.

I went for 2nd range trip today, with high hopes of just shooting 50 jam-free rounds and calling it a day. FTE on 2nd magazine and about every other mag after that. I rule out limp wristing because a) I got 75 the other day, b) I'm REALLY watching for it and c) 3 different people shot this gun today with identical results, all very experienced shooters. I DO believe KT fixed SOMETHING because the FTF's are all gone! However, the FTE bug is still there with a vengeance.

My first response was that I'd take the loss and use this as a trade-in for a Ruger LCP, but I REALLLY wanted to like this gun and decided that posting here for advice might be a somewhat better first choice. And before I get the obligatory and well-meaning "My P-3AT has had thousands of rounds fired through it with no failures whatsoever..." OK, I GET IT! KT makes guns that work great, they also make guns with problems, if yours DID happen to have this problem, what would YOU try?

Is it worth trying another 6-8 week stint back home? Do they tend to go over "2nd time, same problem" more thoroughly?

TIA

-moleman
 

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The very first thing I'd do is put an allen wrench to the extractor screw. Second thing, are you using grease on the slide rails. My P3 won't run with just oil. Some do some don't. Mine doesn't.

You will get more help shortly, don't give up on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Grease, yes, just applied as we were all discussing yesterday. All the spots in the Golden Loki tutorial. Haven't futzed with the screw, but since it just got back from KT, I'd HOPE they'd checked it (as part of my problem description). What size Allen is that again? How tight is tight enough?

Also, I'm not home now (at office), but need to check my paperwork, unsure now if they replaced extractor or ejector. Which is common for FTE problems they warranty?
 

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You will want to use a good squared end 2mm allen. The screw is actually a 5/64", but the 2mm fits a little snugger. the torque for a 6-32 screw will vary depending if you:
1) want to cause thread deformation to prevent it from loosing and thus need a new screw should you ever remove it
2) want to reuse it and either periodical check for tightness or apply a thread locking liquid.

These two torque values are very close to each other, 1) would be 15 to 20 inch-pounds and 2) would be 10 to 15 inch-pounds. If you are using the common "L", the 2) is normally achieved with the long end inserted and using only thumb and index finger to apply a snug, but non effort force. the 1) would be achieved with shorth end install using two/three fingers and a little effort.

I would recomend grease[sup]*[/sup] on the slide rails, the slide center hammer rail, the barrel lug and inside the slide where the barrel lug slides and locks up with slide.

*- I actually preffer a wax base teflon lube and let it dry so the wax builds up
 

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tough call on this one. It shoots one mag good and then the next bad? Does the one after that feed right again? Back and forth good and bad? Same ammo, not dirty, greased rails, hmmmm..makes absolutely no sense. It's broke in right? You are using the same magazine?

Unless...somehow you have a bent recoil spring(s)?
I would pull the thing apart and look for sharp edges, springs, flat spots, globs of grease, anything out of the norm. Going to have to be a process of elimination.
If it passes all these tests it still does it after 200 rounds, sell it.
 

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Check the area opposite your extractor, make sure it does not look like the slide in this picture, with the machined out area pointed to by the red arrow. You don't see this very often but I had it on one of mine.

After 75 good rounds, I'd suspect the extractor might have loosened a little. Try to tighten it if it doesn't move easily then it's not loose. If it moves even a little then get some blue loctite then retighten it.

Did you do a through cleaning between the two range session? After 75 rounds it's due for a good cleaning, including the chamber.

You could try polishing the chamber with an in and out motion using 600 grit sandpaper.
 

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Had a friend that was having problems and he just took it to a good gunsmith, shouldn't have to cost that much and the parts would be free, just tell him if he needs a part you're get it directly from Kel-Tec under warranty. Might run ya 40 bucks or maybe even a little less, heck an action job in my area is only 60 dollars. And that way you wouldn't have to be without it 2 months  :p. and when you get it back it would be working properly. Just a thought.

Tom j.
 

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I'd call Kel-Tec and request a new extractor, spring, screw, and ejector.

I purchased a parkerized P3AT before Christmas. I did the fluff & buff. First trip to the range it shot 50 rounds perfect. Next trip it was failure to extract repeatedly.

I replaced the above mentioned parts and it's been perfect ever since. Be sure to mention it's for a 2nd generation. The first parts they sent me were for a 1st gen.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks, all! No, there's no rhyme or reason like "every other mag", it just started on the second one is all. Sometimes it'd do 3 or 4 mags fine in a row. Same mag, I only have 1. All told it has about 400 - 500 rounds thru it (300-ish for breakin before I sent it in and 150-ish since it came home. My count could be off quite a bit since I kept "trying to break it in ONE more time" before I sent it away, I may have shot a box or 2 more)

Yes, I definitely clean all my guns after each range trip and periodically in between if it's more than a month or 2, this was cleaned, greased AND oiled yesterday.

I polished the feed ramp with sand paper and KT says they polished it as well, would wonder why that would cause extraction problems, though. FTF I could understand.

As far as paying a gunsmith, THAT goes against my grain. I have bought old guns as projects and replaced parts on them and tuned them up, annoyed at the thought of doing this on a NEW IN BOX gun that just got back from warranty, worse would be PAYING to have it done, but enuf ranting, I'll try to keep it constructive and appreciate the help! Maybe extractor, spring and screw are the way to go. I'll get the allen and check it first.

-moleman
 

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Well like I said it was just a thought. Since my friend got his back he hasn't experienced any problems and he told me it was money well spent, he also had him slick up the action. He told me he just didn't want to be without the gun for a total of 4 months. Good luck.

Tom j.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yeah, Tom J., thanks! It could be a last resort. I'd probably send it in again first, just on principle (just so they know it wasn't fixed right the first time, etc.) I appreciate all the input.

BTW, What was replaced was the ejector, according to my paperwork.
 

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Moleman said:
Yeah, Tom J., thanks! It could be a last resort. I'd probably send it in again first, just on principle (just so they know it wasn't fixed right the first time, etc.) I appreciate all the input.

BTW, What was replaced was the ejector, according to my paperwork.
I know how you feel and I hope everything works out! I wouldn't want to pay either but well faced with two months and if it was my only carry well.... :-/

Tom j
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Tom-
Did you take it to just any old gunsmith or back where you bought it or what?

I was hunting for a gunsmith a few months ago for a revolver of mine and didn't have much luck, almost all gun stores advertise "gunsmith on premises", but when asked, they don't do any "repairs". I kinda wonder what a "gunsmith" does anymore??? Just mount scopes and adjust sights, or what?

(I ended up ordering the part I needed on the internet and repairing the revolver myself as it turns out -broken hammer spur, mostly because nobody locally wanted to touch it.)
 
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