[4m0wagen]

I am currently taking the NRA PPIH class. I planned on shooting my P11 today as I did for the first steps class. I since have installed a Northwood Components trigger. Today the trigger would not reset and I had to re-rack the slide in order to shoot. Ended up using my Sig P238 instead for today, thankfully I had a backup plan...

Any ideas what is wrong? The trigger install went great and I followed all the directions without issues.

 

[PF9Newbie]

So the trigger would reset if you manually racked the slide? Did that work everytime? If so, then I would guess it might be an issue that with the new trigger, you are not releasing it fully after the trigger pull, while the pistol is in recoil. Sometimes, a new trigger requires relearning it a bit, so if you had not practiced with or used the pistol after installing the Northwood trigger, and just took it to class, that would not be surprising. Other than that, it is possible you need to trim just a little of the polymer in front of the trigger to let the trigger go forward more reliably as it could be binding just a little.

 

[4m0wagen]

So the trigger would reset if you manually racked the slide? Did that work everytime? If so, then I would guess it might be an issue that with the new trigger, you are not releasing it fully after the trigger pull, while the pistol is in recoil. Sometimes, a new trigger requires relearning it a bit, so if you had not practiced with or used the pistol after installing the Northwood trigger, and just took it to class, that would not be surprising. Other than that, it is possible you need to trim just a little of the polymer in front of the trigger to let the trigger go forward more reliably as it could be binding just a little.

That's correct... When I racked the slide manually then the trigger would reset.

The travel on the trigger seems plenty forward and backward but like you said, new trigger... There happened to be a gunsmith there so he's going to take a look at it for me.

 

[Steve912]

Rtfm

The polymer grip on the P-11/40 will need to be sanded slightly in front of the trigger to allow it to contact the frame for reset. See Page 12 in the P-11 Trigger Installation Guide

http://www.northwoodcomp.com/functionfaq.aspx#8

 

[4m0wagen]

The polymer grip on the P-11/40 will need to be sanded slightly in front of the trigger to allow it to contact the frame for reset. See Page 12 in the P-11 Trigger Installation Guide

http://www.northwoodcomp.com/functionfaq.aspx#8

I remember checking my clearances during that step of installation and everything was fine. But somehow I have a feeling that may be the problem.

 

[pops409]

I remember checking my clearances during that step of installation and everything was fine. But somehow I have a feeling that may be the problem.

On the P-11, the trigger needs to contact the aluminum frame completely in the reset position without touching the plastic grip AT ALL. You should also check side-to-side clearance to make sure its not rubbing somewhere.

With the frame out of the grip, check that there are no worn out parts in your gun that could be causing a problem.

Make sure that the fit between your trigger and trigger axis is fairly tight without any slop or "wiggle room".

Check that the trigger axis contacts the back of the "pocket" at the reset position, as shown at the bottom of Page 23.

The bottom of the trigger should have about 1/8" of pre-travel at the reset position before the trigger bar starts cocking the hammer. If there is only minimal pre-travel, you may need to round off the front edges of the trigger very slightly as shown on Page 23 of the P-11 Trigger Guide. This step is not normally needed as there is usually sufficient pre-travel with the newer triggers, but sometimes it needs trimming. (Hint: Push the trigger into the reset position to "mark" the spots on the front edges that need trimming. Then round the edges slightly at these points.)

Even with your gun having a "new trigger" to get used to, and the long P-11 pull, it should still always reset easily once you release the trigger fully.

Did you hear back from your gunsmith yet?
Pops

 

[4m0wagen]

On the P-11, the trigger needs to contact the aluminum frame completely in the reset position without touching the plastic grip AT ALL. You should also check side-to-side clearance to make sure its not rubbing somewhere.

With the frame out of the grip, check that there are no worn out parts in your gun that could be causing a problem.

Make sure that the fit between your trigger and trigger axis is fairly tight without any slop or "wiggle room".

Check that the trigger axis contacts the back of the "pocket" at the reset position, as shown at the bottom of Page 23.

The bottom of the trigger should have about 1/8" of pre-travel at the reset position before the trigger bar starts cocking the hammer. If there is only minimal pre-travel, you may need to round off the front edges of the trigger very slightly as shown on Page 23 of the P-11 Trigger Guide. This step is not normally needed as there is usually sufficient pre-travel with the newer triggers, but sometimes it needs trimming. (Hint: Push the trigger into the reset position to "mark" the spots on the front edges that need trimming. Then round the edges slightly at these points.)

Even with your gun having a "new trigger" to get used to, and the long P-11 pull, it should still always reset easily once you release the trigger fully.

Did you hear back from your gunsmith yet?
Pops

Thanks Pops!!!

I have not heard back from him yet. I called him today and left him a message. I wanted to pass on the directions of he had not already found them and your recommendations as well.