no dry firing of the P3at?

No, it's a real concern.

K-T uses a very small, high-speed firing pin.

Dry firing may damage it, or the screw that holds in in place.

If you want to dry-fire a lot, get some A-Zoom snap-caps.

rc

 

Definately use snap-caps for/when dry firing. It can be a problem when you're live firing because there is no slide catch and if you've not counted your rounds you can easily dry fire. I'll fire my seven carry rounds then load six practice rounds and do patterns like 3 double taps or two tripple taps, etc., which helps me to know when I've fired the last round. Haven't done it but suppose you could first load a snap-cap in the mag. and then you'd risk no damage.

Oh, best of luck with your new P3AT.


Take care...

 

If you have dry fired the gun much at all, it is probably a good idea to remove the firing pin and inspect it closely to see if any damage has occured.  Also inspect the tip of the retention screw for burrs or other damage.  If either part shows damage or beyond normal wear, it might be a good idea to replace them.  They are inexpensive from Kel Tec, and with a defensive weapon, you don't want to take any unnecessary chances of malfunction or problems.

 

probably free from keltec they are good about that stuff....

personally i wouldnt worry that much about it...but i would use snap caps hence forth...

my understanding is the damage is more to the screw then the firing pin ...
and that damage just makes it hard to get out.

but anything is possible...

 

I'm really bad about not counting my rounds and dry fired my 3AT what I considered to be a lot. I decided I needed to take mine apart and see the extent of the damage I could be causing. I went ahead and ordered some spare/replacement parts before taking it apart. Once the parts arrived I went ahead and took it apart. I found that the end of the screw was obviously dinged up, but was not a problem to remove. The firing pin had no visible damage, it looked as good as new. I went ahead and replaced the screw, and put the same firing pin back in. After seeing the parts I'm not really worried about the firing pin being damaged by dry firing (short of some kind of torture test), and the screw would of had to been a lot worse to cause removal problems.

That being said I'm trying to count my rounds to prevent dry firing, but I won't lose any sleep if it happens occasionally. JMHO.

 

I had my version 1 P-3AT for five years (before the assembly pin holder area deformed and Kel-Tec replaced the gun) and during that time I did not dry fire routinely, however, I always shot until I go an empty click at the firing line, so I guess I actually dry fired quite a lot.  That was never the cause of any problem with the gun, so from my point of view, I am not going to worry about it.

 

I had my version 1 P-3AT for five years (before the assembly pin holder area deformed and Kel-Tec replaced the gun) and during that time I did not dry fire routinely, however, I always shot until I go an empty click at the firing line, so I guess I actually dry fired quite a lot.  That was never the cause of any problem with the gun, so from my point of view, I am not going to worry about it.[/quote]

Kt4me,

  I hear you. I hope my post didn't read like I'm an alarmist.  I'm not paranoid about dry firing the P3AT just trying to error on the side of caution. In the P-3AT Manual it clearly states not to dry fire the gun. The manual also says something about this being true for all guns - that I believe is actually a false assertion.  I dry fire my Ruger revolvers and my Glock 26 without using snap caps. Ruger actually encourages dry fire in the manual I have for the Single Six and Glock requires a dry fire for field stripping and makes no mention of any cause for concern with respect to dry firing.

Take care...

   

 

This may be a silly question, but what is the difference between an empty shell casing and a snap cap?

 

The primer cap on a snap cap is fortified with a spring and the material is made to handle repeated impacts from the firing pin. An empty casing has nothing in place to cushion the blow of the firing pin impacting onto the primer cap. Eventually the firing pin can pierce the primer and become stuck.

 

Thanks

 

I purchase some snap caps awhile back because of the great tip here at this forums. I use them after cleaning the gun to function test. I like the idea to put one in the magazine first at the range so the last round is a snap cap.

 

Never looked into snap caps much. What is the life expectancy of them? Do they need replaced or do you buy one for life?

 

Interesting thought you have there...but what if you loose count of your rounds and that click is actually a hang fire (never had a hang fire happen to me but read about others having them.)? Or a failure To Fire round?

 

Don't know, when I am done I keep the muzzle point down range and drop the magazine. Then I place the gun on the bench muzzle pointed down range and reload the magazine. Then I would put the magazine back in with the muzzle pointed down range rack the slide ejecting the snap cap and loading a round. Never had a hang fire, except when I fired that guy’s musket with a flash pan, but I think they are suppose to do that.

 

That's what I do.  

Edit: Especially if I'm going to let someone else fire it who may be unfamiliar with it.

 

Very interesting. I may go ahead an purchase a few parts from KT. When I was looking at my gun the clerk behind the counter dry fired one of the two KT's I was looking at and I dry fired the other. They sat in the store for a week or two before I bought one of them. Who knows how many times it was dry fired.

I almost bought some snap caps today too. That was, until I saw the price of them. $20 for six snap caps....

 

they're not cheap... i've been checking for months now for .380 snap caps at my preferred LGS, and have yet to see any. saw some 9mm come thru and i snapped them up for about 16 dollars i think.