Community for Kel-Tec Shooters banner
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
G

·
sniper7369 said:
Ooops.  :-[ Did a little more searching and it looks like I just need to order the new hammer block. Is that right?

Not sure if you NEED to, but the new hammer block is supposed to be a drop in that will prevent short stroking.

Mitch- Who never had that problem! ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
28 Posts
Hello all. I have a second generation P3AT with the old trigger mechanism. I'd like to change my trigger mechanism to the new style. I have spent too many years shooting 1911s and Glocks, with short trigger resets, to trust myself to not short-stroke the trigger in a stressful situation. What do I have to upgrade to the new trigger mechanism? Posts above mine mention changing only the hammer block. Is it that simple? What is the best source of parts? K.T. directly?

Thanks,
Karl
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
145 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
KarlSG1 said:
Hello all. I have a second generation P3AT with the old trigger mechanism. I'd like to change my trigger mechanism to the new style. I have spent too many years shooting 1911s and Glocks, with short trigger resets, to trust myself to not short-stroke the trigger in a stressful situation. What do I have to upgrade to the new trigger mechanism? Posts above mine mention changing only the hammer block. Is it that simple? What is the best source of parts? K.T. directly?

Thanks,
Karl
I did a bit more research and it's just the hammer block, available direct from KT. I know what you mean about shooting the 1911's too. The KT trigger is a whole different animal. ;D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
28 Posts
westernamerican said:
Karl, can you tell me exactly what the new style trigger is and looks like?  I would sure like to know because the trigger on my new P-3AT is really not the greatest!  
westernamerican, the new trigger is not an improvement in trigger "feel". It addresses what I believe to be an important aspect of it's function. With the old trigger mechanism, if you fire a round, and release the trigger only enough to feel and hear a click, then pull the trigger again, the hammer drops from the half cocked position without enough force to ignite the cartridge. Once this hapens, the pistol is inoperative until the trigger is FULLY released and the slide is pulled to the rear far enough to bring the hammer back to the half cocked  position. With 1911s and Glocks, it is not necessary to fully release the trigger before starting to pull it for the next shot. With 1911s and Glocks, you can release the trigger only far enough to reset it and you feel and hear a click at that point. That same practice with the old trigger on the P3AT results in a dead pistol until the slide can be manipulated.

The new trigger eliminates the hammer falling from half c0ck, so if you short stroke the release of the trigger after firing a shot, nothing happens. All that is needed to fire the second shot after you've short stroked the trigger is to fully release the trigger then pull it again. No working of the slide is necessary. The new trigger is much better than the old one for a self defense situation.

Unless your P3AT was used, or old stock at the dealer, there is a good chance you have the new trigger. I've read on this forum, that the trigger pull does smooth out with use.

Karl

Half thingy-that's funny right there.
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top