New RDB Survival, couple questions

Discussion in 'RDB Bullpup Rifle' started by IAm_Not_Lost, Aug 7, 2020.

  1. IAm_Not_Lost

    IAm_Not_Lost Member

    4
    Aug 7, 2020
    Hello everyone,
    New to this forum, not new to the firearms community and forums in general. Just picked up a Keltec RDB-Survival and had a few questions.
    First; the recoil spring. My recoil spring extends out past the op-rod, whereas all of the pictures online I have seen show the the recoil spring guide extending about 6-7" out from the op-rod but the recoil spring is inside and not visible. My recoil spring and recoil guide are captured still, but extend out farther than others I have seen. It still collapses to the same overall length. Function is fine though.
    Second; the weird rear pic rail screw that has the flat ovalish shaped washer under it. I went through and removed and thread locked all of the screws on this gun because I have seen numerous people complain about various screws backing out. The rear screw on the pic rail was very tight from the factory. Reading on this forum it seems though that it is not supposed to be to help prevent vertical stringing. That makes sense based on the design. Mine though has a small round spacer underneath the flat oval washer that seemingly prevents you from accidentally tightening down too hard on the thin washer. I tightened it back to a normal hand tight level that you can achieve just using thumb and index finger and a small hex wrench and used heat resistant rocksett, which is my preferred heat resistant product vs red loctite. Thoughts on this?
    No significant issues during shooting. Completely reliable. Accuracy is fine, had some horizontal POI group shifts initially using some different M193 clones but that seems to have settled down to consistent repeatable POI. I will say there is a very large POI shift between suppressed and non-suppressed (as an aside, what a PITA to remove that hokey front sight). 4" low at 50 yards going from suppressed to unsuppressed. Little more than I am used to.

    Anyways, thanks for your help in answering these questions.
     
  2. odinforever2000

    odinforever2000 Well-Known Member

    362
    Oct 6, 2011
    1.) If it functions fine..Its fine..

    2.) The rear rail screw can be tight but you will know when its too tight as you wont be able to use the charging handle to load a round into the gun or move it..At all. So if you can still do those things..See #1
     

  3. iamscottasus

    iamscottasus Well-Known Member

    Feb 21, 2014
    My recoil spring extends out past the op-rod, whereas all of the pictures online I have seen show the the recoil spring guide extending about 6-7" out from the op-rod but the recoil spring is inside and not visible. My recoil spring and recoil guide are captured still, but extend out farther than others I have seen. It still collapses to the same overall length. Function is fine though.

    This description is very herky-jerky. Please provide a picture.
    A long as there is a stop for the spring, it doesn't move, and the foot at the rear of the rod isn't missing, all should be well.


    I went through and removed and thread locked all of the screws The rear screw on the pic rail was very tight from the factory.

    Should have left it alone until you had a problem. Just because a fastener is hard to turn doesn't mean its tight.

    Accuracy is fine, had some horizontal POI group shifts initially using some different M193 clones
    I will say there is a very large POI shift between suppressed and non-suppressed 4" low at 50 yards going from suppressed to unsuppressed.

    Thin barrels on piston systems will often give such results. This is niche rifle. An MOA rifle shouldn't be expected. But, if you can't get acceptable 100 yard accuracy, have KT support it.
    Could the suppressor be pulling the barrel down?
     
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  4. IAm_Not_Lost

    IAm_Not_Lost Member

    4
    Aug 7, 2020
    Hi there Iamscottasus,
    I appreciate your feedback. I will upload some photos when I have a minute at home.

    With regard to the screws...personally, based on my experiences with previous Keltecs and having half of their screws backing out or falling out, I just choose to preempt that issue and go through and thread lock them as they should be from the factory. I torqued them appropriately just using finger pressure with a standard hex wrench for screws of their size. There isn't any reason the rear screw shouldn't be brought to an appropriate torque setting since it has a spacer that supports the flat washer, I was simply curious about it as I have read others on this forum talking about needing to loosen it (and possibly hold tongue the right way as well) from factory to prevent stringing.

    The suppressor certainly could be pulling the barrel down, it's just a larger shift than I have seen on other platforms and using even heavier suppressors than the one I will be using on the Keltec. So I was curious if others have had consistently large and repeatable shifts when using a suppressor on their RDB or specifically the survival model with the thinner barrel.
     
    Last edited: Aug 11, 2020
    iamscottasus likes this.
  5. IAm_Not_Lost

    IAm_Not_Lost Member

    4
    Aug 7, 2020
    Here is the spring extending out past the op rod as described above.
     

    Attached Files:

  6. iamscottasus

    iamscottasus Well-Known Member

    Feb 21, 2014
    Yes, thats Gen 2.
    Gen 1 had a sprung catch holding the spring in the tube. the catch would fail. Gen 2 had it removed and the firing pin changed to an un-sprung pin with a larger hammer strike face that stopped against the back of the bolt carrier.

    Your op rod is normal Gen 2.
     
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