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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After 25 rounds, my new pistol continued to feed well, fire, and eject without fail. But, the pistol would not cock itself. It is necessary to slightly move the slide to the rear to cock it. I did do some fluff/buff. Is this a problem anyone has heard of before?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Where does "thingy" come from? I hope you understand what I mean. The pistol does not prepare itself for firing the next round. Is it more accurate to say the the striker is not reset?
 

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The "thingie" is the bad word nanny saying "c0ck" ::)

If this is only occuring after it has clicked on an empty chamber this is normal. After the trigger is pulled and the hammer strikes the slide has to move to the rear to reset the trigger.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yes, even though the pistol has ejected the spent casing and chambered the next round, the trigger is not reset in the process. With a slight rear movement of the slide the the trigger is reset and the same thing happens again. Why would not the trigger get reset in the slides initial movement in the ejection process?
 

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are you letting up all the way on the trigger? when you let off on the trigger it should make [highlight]two [/highlight]clicks,and then your trigger is reset. if you aren't letting it reset all the way you will get the problem that you are having.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yes. The reset on this pistol is pretty good. But the problem here is that whatever prepares the trigger to feel reset when you let off on it, isn't happening. But as you probably already know, it only takes a very slight movement to the rear to allow the trigger to be reset. Why does it reset when done manually but doesn't in the process of ejecting the spent casing?
 

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I'm a little confused. It shoots fine - feeds, fires and ejects:


SoonerPast said:
After 25 rounds, my new pistol continued to feed well, fire, and eject without fail.  But, the pistol would not c0ck itself.  

Then you say:

Yes.  The reset on this pistol is pretty good.  But the problem here is that whatever prepares the trigger to feel reset when you let off on it, isn't happening.  But as you probably already know, it only takes a very slight movement to the rear to allow the trigger to be reset.  Why does it reset when done manually but doesn't in the process of ejecting the spent casing?  
It should reset when you fire and the spent casing is ejected.  The slide has to come back to do that.  You said you fired 25 rounds with no problem.  So I'm confused as to when you're having this problem?
 

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it won't reset untill you let off on the trigger all of the way. try shooting it then letting all of the way off, then pull the trigger again. if that don't do it i don't know what to tell ya. someone with more knowledge than me will have to help.
 

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That's all I can think of - he's holding the trigger back all the way after firing a round and not releasing it until the casing is ejected and the slide has returned to battery?

Did you have to manually reset the trigger on all 25 rounds?
 

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Dan-O said:
Send it back for a factory fluff and buff.
KT does not do a "fluff and bluff" unless they started this week.

It sounds as if the OP does not know how the pistol operates and is "short stroking" it as has been said several times.

If that's not what it is he needs to explain the problem in further detail as it isn't clear whether or not there is an actual problem at this point.
 

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  Hi SoonerPast! Welcome to KToG! Short stroking the trigger WILL NOT cause the hammer not to c o c k. It WILL cause light strikes from firing off the hammer block though.

  You either have a defective hammer block that is not resetting, or something is amiss with the trigger bar/hammer block/slide connection.

  Remove the slide and inspect the right rear side of the grip. See that thin triangular shaped piece of metal sticking up?

  That is the top of the trigger bar. The slide runs over that and presses it down. It MUST pop back up to reset the hammer block.

  Check that it IS popping up, and that the slide allows this. Also check that the back of the trigger bar is all there and is properly placed over the hammer pin:

http://1bad69.com/keltec/disassembly.htm

  If THAT is not the problem then it is the hammer block. Brave men have been known to cry when messing with the hammer block. If you want to tackle it, read this:

http://www.geocities.com/pocketguns/P32grip.html

  KT Service will gladly send you free parts. Otherwise, a trip back to the Mothership is in order. Call KT Service at 1-800-515-9983.

Packer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks, the trigger bar activator, or whatever it's called does move up and down freely. The hammer block work does look to be over my head. I think I will shoot it some more-is it possible that this is might be cured in the break in?
 

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SoonerPast said:
Thanks,  the trigger bar activator, or whatever it's called does move up and down freely.
Make sure that it is popping up when the SLIDE closes. Also, it seems to be resetting fine by hand--Your TROUBLE happens under the stress of recoil.

Is it possible that this is might be cured in the break in?
If something is STICKING--Yes. If something is BROKEN--No.

Packer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
How can I make sure it is popping up when the slide closes? If it is stuck down, is that visible?

Just for clarity-this started after the first 25 rounds. It would only require a slight pull on the slide to apparently get that bar down and back up. It seems to me that the only difference is that my manual operation is not nearly as violent as the slide is moving in recoil.
 

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Packer has it covered. Sounds like a trip to Cocoa is in order. My new P3AT went about 12 to 20 rounds before it stopped firing at all. Trip to KT and it's been perfect since. Send it home. You will be glad you did.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
After reading Pistol Packers message, I manipulated the reset lever some and went back outside. The pistol fired 5 rounds in sequence and then on the sixth, the trigger failed to be reset. Tried with a second mag and the same thing happened. So, I don't think anything is broken. I have taken it apart again and put a generous amount of oil in every seam I can find. Going to let it set a couple of days and start the break-in again.

I had a 1st gen P3AT and it had problems, wouldn't eject or feed reliably. This new one does all that perfectly, the spent casings are not deformed, no smiley's. I think it is best to give it more time and rounds fired at this point.
 
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